YOu know, you are a clueeless moron and your drivel does not deserve comment. Why don;t you bother to actaully READ what I posted ( I even said I short clip sometimes you freaking idiot) and then see if you can get out a few complete senetences that are on topic, as opposed to poking at some straw man of your own choosing?

So the pot calls the kettle black.

Pathetic, really. Frustration that you can't clearly state your point, and then anger when someone calls you on the substance of your posts. Might I suggest a freshman-level English composition course to help you more succinctly present your views. It may have the added bonus of preventing you from looking like an imbecile as above.

I'll point out that cams can be placed in tensioned oppposition the same as nuts, only it's easier with cams, and this can stop walking cold for a critical placement.

Christ! I never remember this. Thanks for the reminder!!

Instead, I'll use passive gear for the secondary piece. Then depend on clove hitches in single strand of webbing at each biner. Hopefully I'll remember this lesson.

david yount.

Sorry guys... didn't mean to intrude on your circle jerk.

Carry on....

I carry lotsa single runners and lotsa double runners, more than anybody I've climbed with. And I also climb on 70-meter ropes and love to connect two pitches, all the time. I've even connected three pitches on several routes!

When I'm stretching my 70-meter I'm sure glad I used full length slings, even in Yosemite and Squamish, and especially when adventure climbing.

If I owned DMM cams I would virutally never clip the extendable sling, I would still add a single runner.

But not many leaders stretch a 70-meter rope. I admit that my chosen climbing style does not reflect any absolute paradigm of safety, but I think about safety and am always willing to learn or re-evaluate my decisions.

I agree with the obviously accurate statement that sometimes safety is increased with a shorter sling and sometimes it isn't. It depends.

It is my opinion that leaders that rarely on-sight hard 5.10 are commonly clipping too short. Just my opinion based on what I've observed.

david yount.

WTF?? what does the level at which I climb, or anyone else in this discussion, have anything to do with anything in this discussion? Unless we're engaging in a "you disagree, therefore you must not climb really hard" weenie waving?

Hmm, yeah. That line has got to be explained. After several "WTF" I understand it would have been wiser and far easier to never have written it. I did a poor job of saying what I was trying to communicate.

[ snipped other stuff ]

I wasn't try to construct an elitist platitude. I apologize.

In my observations over many years I've seen newer leaders struggle harder with constructing a straight rope path and with not jiggling their placements. I should have stuck with "newer" and left out any reference to ratings, I guess.

david yount.

On the same route, I have observed climbers that don't lead 5.10 create a running belay with sharper corners in the rope's path. They are clipping shorter. I see short draws at the end of a straight up segment which turns into a traverse. I see short draws on the one piece that is horizontally offset to the rest of the straight up route. I see short draws on pieces that are in the face directly beneath a roof and the line pulls the roof. Not always, but often.

I must say I was really suprised by an earlier comment you made that you almost never clip into the extended DMM runner. I personally don't like DMM cams very much and only own one or two, but if I used them I would take advantage of the feature all the time. I wish all SLCD companies would do this.