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climbinggurl
Oct 21, 2004, 2:09 AM
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i think they r. they probably give u an idea of how mountain climbing is!
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alberta_climberboy
Oct 21, 2004, 2:54 AM
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I think they are. In the winter it helps keep you sharp. I go to the indor gym at the UofC 2 times a week. It's also a great way to meet new climbers!
Eric.
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overlord
Oct 21, 2004, 10:07 AM
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theyre really helpful IMHO, but for climbing, but not really for "mountain climbing". for that you need a lot more than just a climbing gym.
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shock
Oct 21, 2004, 12:59 PM
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Here in Ireland if we didnt have indoor gyms we wouldnt be able to do any climbing between october and april each year without risking hypothermia or pneumonia. they're also a great way to get to know people.
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jcshaggy
Oct 21, 2004, 1:31 PM
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Climbing gyms work-but if you don't get on rock for a while I reckon you'll see your ass!!
Just a thought.Use it don't use it. 8^)
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fixednut
Oct 21, 2004, 1:37 PM
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I think we should start a grammar school for trolls. These poor trolls have been semi-illiterate for far too long. It's time we do something.
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leinosaur
Oct 21, 2004, 1:56 PM
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Okieterry told me the most helpful route at our local gym, as far as improving skills that will really help outside, is the crack. It's a wood one wide enough to stick in the whole hand and jam the heels of the hands.
See this thread on home-made "crack machines" if you want one of your own http://www.rockclimbing.com/...68&highlight=#901668
Otherwise it seems like it can't hurt, eh? Finger strength, strength in general, but maybe not route-finding. It's fun to get back in the gym and see how much the real rock has improved you too.
It's all climbing, if you ask me, even if it ain't all "rock climbing!"
leinosaur
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moeman
Oct 21, 2004, 10:40 PM
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In reply to: Otherwise it seems like it can't hurt, eh? Finger strength, strength in general, but maybe not route-finding. It's fun to get back in the gym and see how much the real rock has improved you too.
Yes, it can hurt. Gym climbing is a great way to tweak your tendons, get tendonitis, or otherwise wreck yourself. Every injury that I've ever had climbing has been from bouldering in the gym. Furthermore, gym climbing destorys your technique and mental skills. The gym style of climbing encourages "muscle-man" climbing, where you rely on your brute strength to pull yourself up, not good balance or precise technique. The big and forgiving footholds encouage sloppy footwork. The bolts every four feet are a detriment to your lead head. The taped holds can make you careless in you route finding skills. The seemingly safe environment can make you complacent in your belay habits and safety checks.
So do I climbing the gym? I used to frequently, but I've stopped. I've climbed in the gym a total of one time since May. Right now, I'll take a good long bike ride over gym climbing any day. Its more enjoyable, and, in my opinion, its better training for climbing than gym climbing. For the style of climbing I enjoy, strong legs and precise footwork are a much greater benefit than gym-bred forearm and finger strength.
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treyfrancisclimbs
Oct 21, 2004, 10:45 PM
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i think if you have decent route setters you are forced to learn and use technique. at my gym there are some routes that are super techy and you really can't just he-man your way through them, but then again there are some you can. i find the gym to be a good place to get conditioning and strength, as well as for working on specific types of movements and tricks. i have also had a few injuries there that are pretty much from overuse, so i think it is good in moderation, not everyday
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climbinggurl
Oct 23, 2004, 11:40 PM
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well i mean they give u an early start if u r a biggener. i mean i started out climbing in normal gyms n it sorta helped me!sooo it might help some people not everybody
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cactusjack
Oct 27, 2004, 8:13 PM
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Gyms mmmm depends on the route setter and you.
-A good setter forces you to learn technique, not all routes are full of jugs.
-Gym climbing helps with endurance and strength training. But it is merely a tool to help you with climbing outside and it doesn't help with anchor setting.
-People get hurt in the gym because they do not kill 1 hr per climb setting up anchors and trying to find the route. If you climb in the gym you need to stretch and take breaks. Just because you can climb a route every 5min doesn't mean that you should. Alot of people play heman trying to cram in all the climbing they can in their 1hr workout. But when you go outside you climb all day, remeber that when you decide how many indoor climbs you are going to do.
-Just because the holds are there doesn't mean you have to use them.
-You can always mix an match indoor routes to help you focus on technique, because after all a hold is a hold regardless of the color.
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aka_fred
Oct 27, 2004, 8:32 PM
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Gyms can be a great tool. You can practice hard moves with complete safety, you can build strength, and you can hurt yourself. The best way a gym can be a tool is when you're trying out a new partner for the first time, or a noob for the very first time, it's a hell of a lot safer to teach belaying and the basics with or for a new partner to see if you can trust each other. I'd rather take a 15 foot fall on padded floor then a 30 ripper on rock because my guy doesn't pay attention.
Besides, if you're going to a gym so often that you're killing your hands, maybe you should look into some cross training, go for a run or a swim or lift some weights or something, take some time off the rock, real or plastic. It'll make you better in the long run.
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crazygirl
Oct 27, 2004, 8:41 PM
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outdoor gyms are even more helpful than indoor ones. even if the gym is half indoor, half outdoor, its still half helpful.
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rocket
Oct 27, 2004, 8:43 PM
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I agree with the statement: I think if you have decent route setters you are forced to learn and use technique.
You have to make the best of the situation and if you just go and pull yourself up the wall then you're not doing yourself a favor. Unfortunately, I live in Ohio and the weather does not allow for climbing at the New, Red or Seneca very often in the winter.
The gym is a great place to meet fellow climbers, get ideas, watch more seasoned climbers climb and learn. Although, you can listen, watch and take in all the advice, but if you don't put it to practice it won't do you any good no matter if in the gym or on the real rock.
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get_ur_rox_off
Oct 28, 2004, 2:16 PM
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I agree with the ones that are saying climbing gyms are useful. They have their purpose as far as I'm concerned. Only some of the route quality is the route setter's responsibility, but like someone else said, you don't have to follow and use every hold. If the footholds are too big, don't use them! I mix it up on a 5.7, only doing hand-foot matches, or trekking, or campusing, or practicing dynos, or doing laps for endurance. Some days I only climb, but some days half of my workout is sit-ups, push-ups, pull-ups, stretching, and core strengthening.
It's up to you, the climber, to know what you need to work on and have the discipline to work on it. Know your limitations, treat your body well by stretching and warming up. Don't overdo it or you WILL hurt yourself.
Also, the gym is a good place for noobies and children to get their feet wet. Real rock can be intimidating. :shock: Do you take a noobie snowboarder up to the summit of Whistler? That's what bunny hills are for.
Don't get lazy with safety like moeman said. No matter where you are, ALWAYS check and double-check yourself and your belayer!! ALWAYS pay attention to your climber.
My $0.02. Peace. 8^)
Drew
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tharealtn
Nov 1, 2004, 11:35 PM
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I belive they can be helpful for a beginner climber up to an extent. Over training in a gym can be awful, because once you go outside it is totally different. I find it helpful to go to the gym just once a week. The problem is, at the gym you can see all your holds so u know if they are good or not. Outside you somtimes can't, which makes people nervous and scared. I think it's good to go to the gym to learn all your basic skills, then go to the rock and perfect them.
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trad_mike
Nov 1, 2004, 11:40 PM
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I disagree about gyms being a great place to get your feet wet. Safety systems need to be learned outdoors. The gym is for training.
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theflyingsquirrel
Nov 1, 2004, 11:49 PM
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i started climbing about 6 months ago and when i started i wanted to run right out to my local crag on top the mountain an climb it but i was told hell no thats not safe go to the gym and learn there cus i had no clue about climbing i knew what a route was an thats it but once you've learned how to climb then go outside so basically the moral of the story is if your a beginner i think it is better if you go to the gym get your shit in order an then go and climb outside or else you won't know what you are doin and end up hurting yourself and taking some climbing classes at your local gym wouldn't hurt and neither would finding a climbing partner (who knows what they are doin)
just a thought ya know
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trad_mike
Nov 2, 2004, 12:09 AM
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In reply to: i started climbing about 6 months ago and when i started i wanted to run right out to my local crag on top the mountain an climb it but i was told hell no thats not safe go to the gym and learn there cus i had no clue about climbing i knew what a route was an thats it but once you've learned how to climb then go outside so basically the moral of the story is if your a beginner i think it is better if you go to the gym get your s--- in order an then go and climb outside or else you won't know what you are doin and end up hurting yourself and taking some climbing classes at your local gym wouldn't hurt and neither would finding a climbing partner (who knows what they are doin) just a thought ya know
You're not going to get your s--- in order in at the local gym. You're going to get your s--- in order outside with people who really know what they're doing. Moving from gym to crag opens up alot of issues. If you learn how to climb safely outside, you don't have to unlearn bad habits from the gym.
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petsfed
Nov 2, 2004, 12:28 AM
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Gyms are great if you can't roadtrip to warmer climes in the winter months. And you can win stuff at competition raffles. Other than that, not much to really scream about.
Cracks in gyms tend to be uniformly crappy (as has been my experience). I want to jam, not lieback a flaring offset. But what do I know?
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tchamber
Nov 2, 2004, 12:37 AM
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In reply to: I think we should start a grammar school for trolls. These poor trolls have been semi-illiterate for far too long. It's time we do something.
AMEN TO THAT!!!!!
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get_ur_rox_off
Nov 2, 2004, 3:14 PM
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In reply to: I disagree about gyms being a great place to get your feet wet. Safety systems need to be learned outdoors. The gym is for training.
Consider a parent (that is afraid of heights) that is taking their 6 year old daughter and friends out climbing. Consider a group of local (poor) university students wanting to do something different. Where are you going to rent equipment? Where are you going to get proper instruction outside? You can get guided trips out climbing, but it's more expensive. I've seen kids freak out 5 feet off the ground on a 5.5 climb indoors.
The gym is not a safe haven, but there are more systems in place that make it safer. The ground is even for the belayer and there are usually mats in the gym. There are employees that walk around and ensure people are climbing safely. For first-time lead climbers, the clips are closer together.
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stuckinmidwest
Nov 2, 2004, 3:33 PM
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I think it's helpful in that you can do alot of routes without having to set them explore to find holds. It seems like it helps training, but a day at the crag seems more worthwhile. Depending on the gym, routes, and holds, sometimes you may find all the moves feel the same after a while and you have less technical moves you can work on. Helps keep you in shape for the winter and to me, any climbing is good climbing.
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killclimbz
Nov 2, 2004, 3:45 PM
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I think the climbing gym is more helpful for us who are already into this sport.
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climb_plastic
Nov 6, 2004, 12:36 AM
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Of course they're helpful in climbing. If you don't think they help your climbing then you're doing something wrong. I've seen many people go from climbing 5.10 on their first day to climbing 5.12 and above in a year. Then again I've seen people stuck on 5.11 for years but I think it's because of their attitude....they don't climb in the gym to improve but to maintain. I started in the gym, climbed there for 10 months before I went outside and after some getting used to the rock I climbed a 5.12a on the second day. There's no way I could do that without the gym climbing because I started off on 5.10 plastic and when I started it seemed like 5.12s were impossible.
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colqueerio
Nov 6, 2004, 1:18 AM
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This is a no-brainer and probably a troll, but of course gyms are useful, invaluable even. With good course-setting, you can punch out tons of mileage, whatever your limit might be, in a short amount of time, especially during the cold, dark winter months, when those of us that *work* can't get outside and play all day.
Those of you that started climbing pre-rock-gym revolution probably know exactly what I'm talking about. Our off-season training consisted of getting outside whenever we could to the rock, even if it meant climbing on unbearably cold days (more tendon-damaging and injurious, I'd argue, than any session in the gym); lifting weights (boring, tedious, horrible); pull-ups (boring, injurious); and hangboarding (a great way to stay strong in your upper body, but not anything that imparts the all-too-crucial "rock sense," or ability to stay flexible, read moves, and flow up the stone).
I'd say the only gyms that are less useful are the ones with lax course-setting, but even then you can make up your own problems. And this one gym I visited one time where the dick behind the counter bald-faced lied to me, saying leading "was for members only," because he was too lazy to give a belay test to me and my friend.
But that's another story.
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floridaputz
Nov 6, 2004, 2:19 AM
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I never stepped in a climbing gym until I was almost 40. I now live in Florida and would have no way to train without a climbing gym. Climbing in the Gym, be it ever so humble, primarily helps me maintain hand strength. It keeps me sharp and praticed on the belay. Because of this I can pick up my rack, jump on a plane and climb anywhere in this country and be ready to go. I already have all the skills, so this works for me.
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tradman
Nov 12, 2004, 12:39 PM
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In reply to: You're not going to get your s--- in order in at the local gym.
Is that why almost without exception, every single world-class climber on this planet, all of them, even the ones who know waaaaaaaay more about climbing than you (and yes, near-impossible though it may be to comprehend, younger, harder, fitter and more experienced climbers do exist) use gyms to get stronger.
:roll:
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nthusiastj
Nov 12, 2004, 2:34 PM
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Lynn Hill still climbs indoors. Of course, she doesn't need the help. But If the best female climber in the world climbs indoors, there may be something behind it.
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