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blueeyedclimber
Nov 13, 2004, 8:22 AM
Post #51 of 52
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
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In reply to: 3) regarding the bolded print above. I don't see the difference in a lead anchor and a toprope anchor. The both need to be built as safely and redundantly as possible. A leader is not going to be able to "adjust" an anchor when it is experiencing its greatest forces while the leader is falling. Matter of fact, I would say the lead anchor is more critical because it will experience greater forces than a toprope anchor
You misunderstood. Yes a lead anchor is usually more critical and is capable of taking MUCH higher forces than a tr anchor, but while belaying at a lead anchor you have the ability to always keep an eye on it and adjust it if necessary.
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eray01
Nov 25, 2004, 5:01 PM
Post #52 of 52
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 19
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I can't really make the whole thing out from your pics. One big picture of the whole thing would be better. You'd be better off with lockers on those bolts right through the hangers rather than those quickdraws. Every additional link is a potential failure, and your only as strong as your weakest link. I don't know if you are, but never put nylon on nylon where this movement potential. I.E.- Girth Hitching two slings together to create a longer one is fine, but putting the rope directly through the sling is not. Do you see what I mean. Make sure you use a water knot (overhand follow through) rather than a single overhand to cannect to ends of webbing to form a loop. This is a common but deadly Mistake. Listen I hope I don't come off like a jerk in these posts. I have atendency to write that way. I'm just straight forward and to the point. I'd rather help you than sit around cpmparing the size of my johnson with veteran climbers.
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