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gunksgoer
Nov 21, 2004, 4:33 AM
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After reading the "When should i start trad leading" thing, i couldnt help but wonder what peoples first leads were.
My first sport lead was a 3 bolt 5.7 route at rumney called "something interesting" i had tr-ed it and mach lead it first.
And, as sad as it is, my first trad lead was crimson corner at the gunks.
this 30 foot slabby face/arete is benchmark gunks 5.0. its considered hard in the grade.
so all u leaders out there, what were your first sport and trad leads? whether it was that 5.1 walk up or 5.8 horror show, fess up...
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theishofoz
Nov 21, 2004, 4:43 AM
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first sport lead was a 10 b and first trad was a 5.6 (composure at snowshed at donner summit)
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g-funk
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Nov 21, 2004, 5:00 AM
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Corrugation Corner at Lover's Leap was my first lead. It's a Trad classic!
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vegastradguy
Nov 21, 2004, 5:06 AM
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My first sport lead was some 5.7 at Panty Wall...cant remember the name.
My first trad lead was Crimson Chrysalis (all of it but Pitches 3,4,&7). I really should climb this again, since I was so gripped for most of the day that I really dont remember most of the climb!!! :)
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petsfed
Nov 21, 2004, 5:23 AM
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Some unnamed (maybe unclimbed, considering the amount of moss) corner across the way from Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon. Maybe 4th class, if that. Scared the bejeezus out of me though. I got to downclimb it first. My father saw the necessity in teaching me how to retreat LNT style. I didn't do my first sport lead until over a year and a half later.
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slobmonster
Nov 21, 2004, 5:27 AM
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Usually when I do this I place little, if any gear.
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rendog
Nov 21, 2004, 6:05 AM
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first climb was my first lead...5.8 Castle Anthrax...4 weeks later I was working and getting spit off with HUGE 25 footers on an .11a
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thewyseclimber
Nov 21, 2004, 6:26 AM
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My first lead attempt was Silver Spoon, at Garden of the Gods. I took a really rotten fall, and got thrashed sliding down the 75 degree slab. Stupid crumbly sandstone made my feet slip.
Anyway, my first completed lead was Crynoid Corner, at Shelf Road. Good memories....
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korntera
Nov 21, 2004, 7:45 AM
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My first sport lead was a 5.4 trad climb that i onsighted. A friend place the gear, then i climbed up and placed the draws and clipped in. My first trad lead was a 5.8(although it seemd like a 5.7-) And it was a top rope lead so that if my placement was bad i would not die, just take a big fall.
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esallen
Nov 21, 2004, 8:28 PM
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Sport: The 5.7 Apendage in Rock Canyon (Utah).
Trad: The 5.8 crack on PA's Mother in Rock Canyon.
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climbhoser
Nov 21, 2004, 8:52 PM
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My first sport lead was either Menarete 5.8, The Pinnacle in Cheyenne Canyon, C-Springs
or
Chronic Bedwetter 5.7, Silver Cascade Slabs in Cheyenne Canyon, C-Springs
or
some 5.7 on the east side of Kindergarten Rock, Garden of the Gods, C-Springs
I honestly can't remember which came first as I was so cocky I climbed everything like I had been climbing all my life.
My first trad lead was Superslab 5.7, Smith Rock, Oregon. Pretty unmemorable, pretty easy and fun. Initiated me with gear, tho
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numbnut
Nov 21, 2004, 9:11 PM
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The Horseman. 5.5 in the gunks. The steepest 5.5 ever. So Good!!!!!!!! :D
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iltripp
Nov 21, 2004, 9:16 PM
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I'm surprised no one else has said this yet, but my first lead was the first pitch of Jam Crack (5.7 I think) in the Valley.
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j_from_the_307
Nov 21, 2004, 9:25 PM
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Trad: Edward's Crack at Vedauwoo (5.7)
Sport: 5.5 in Sinks Canyon... don't remember the name of it... much scarier than any trad I'd done. I soloed it a year later and it was such a head trip that I haven't soloed anything since.
--J
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sandbag
Nov 21, 2004, 9:28 PM
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im not sure if this counts, its a 5.7 chimmney, only about 40ft or so sans gear:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=23045
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neuroshock
Nov 21, 2004, 9:36 PM
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Sport: Tourist Trap (5.9), Torrent Falls, Red River Gorge. onsight :D. in the rain :(. most memorable parts: the arete portion of the climb and getting shortroped on every clip.
Trad: Difficult Crack (5.8), Twin Sisters, Mississippi Palisades. G-gear. TR'd first, led on 2nd time on it. most memorable part: learning to handjam mid-crux on the polished limestone (at least it was TR :)).
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pancaketom
Nov 21, 2004, 9:41 PM
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sport: ripple 5.9 enchanted Rock, TX (old bolts)
trad: (other than a few placements on bolted routes at hueco), Warpy Moople, odd pitches, 5.9, sandias, NM (boy was that an adventure).
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bandidopeco
Nov 21, 2004, 9:53 PM
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My first attempted Trad lead was the awkward 5.9+ route Rat's Tooth at Donner summit. I made the big mistake of getting high right before, and ended up placing pro every 2 feet before my nerves got the best of me in the middle of the awkward flaring section and I came down after getting only halfway.
First sport lead was a 5.10d at the Ampatheatre near Alpine Meadows. Pretty scary, but i made it.
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climbingbums
Nov 21, 2004, 10:37 PM
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sport lead, pizuto 5.9+ at the promised land in Prescott, AZ. first Trad lead Nappin, also primosed land, 5.10a r+/x (trd twice and then lead), and first free solo was a 5.7 at the promised land, I forget the name, first serious free solo was on on-sight free solo of aid crack, 5.11c (jumped on accidentally after being told the lower "boulder problem" was 5.11, and the upper crack was 5.8. the upper crack was only 5.10, and i managed fine luckily). Most of my firsts were at my home crag.
Bobby
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ambler
Nov 21, 2004, 11:07 PM
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My first lead was about 15 feet on my second day of roped climbing. The experienced climbers we were with had wandered off, leaving me and another rookie with no gear, on a small ledge 15' below the top of the first pitch of After Six in the Valley. If we wanted to get down that night, somebody had to lead off. I wore hiking boots and had no idea what I was doing but the thrill was electric.
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areyoumydude
Nov 21, 2004, 11:36 PM
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Southeast corner at Becon Rock. 5.7, 6 pitches.
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spoon
Nov 21, 2004, 11:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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my first lead was some 5.9, the name of which i can't remember, but my second lead (about 10 minutes after my first) was an 11b, psycho-wussy, at little si. i just about had a heart attack.
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overit
Nov 22, 2004, 12:41 AM
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First pitch of Jam Crack, 5.7 in Yosemite. My overprotective belayer was more gripped than I was. I put 3 pieces in for him.
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ladybigguns
Nov 22, 2004, 2:36 AM
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first sport lead was Mr. Bungles 5.8 at the Red. Didnt like it as much as to defy the laws of tradition.... shoulda done that one first.
still working on that first trad lead.... soon though, soon.
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