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pbjosh
Jun 7, 2005, 12:24 AM
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FWIW, The couple of times I've climbed in Queen Creek I felt the ratings were in line with my understandings and expectation.
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one900johnnyk
Jun 7, 2005, 12:44 AM
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well, it's on the west coast, isn't it?
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organic
Jun 7, 2005, 1:21 AM
Post #28 of 44
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I think Jack's is for wimps if you like to climb like a baby and spray about your latest 5.10a top rope go to Jack's bunch of bean pushing lollygaggers.
I have never been to Jack's this post is a complete troll
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jt512
Jun 7, 2005, 1:35 AM
Post #29 of 44
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In reply to: I think Jack's is for wimps if you like to climb like a baby and spray about your latest 5.10a top rope go to Jack's bunch of bean pushing lollygaggers.
BEAN PUSHING LOLLYGAGGERS = BUGGER'S HELPING LOYAL NAGS.
Oops, wrong thread.
-Jay
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climbsomething
Jun 7, 2005, 1:59 AM
Post #30 of 44
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In reply to: well, it's on the west coast, isn't it? |
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jt512
Jun 7, 2005, 2:13 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: well, it's on the west coast, isn't it? I'm curious, do you post ANYTHING worth a damn?
You mean he's not in your killfile?
-Jay
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lou
Jun 7, 2005, 2:19 AM
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Jacks tends to be soft in the lower grades....that being said....it has over 200 fantastic climbs....alot of HARD routes...whatever they are rated...so no matter how much of a hardman you are...youll get a pump!! Dont let the egos cloud your view...or wait...better they dont show anyway...heh he... go ...great camping...safe..and most of all FUN!!!!
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bvb
Jun 7, 2005, 3:04 AM
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interesting thread.
i cut my teeth on old skool 5.12's (in the '70's) and old-skool 5.13's (in the 80's) and feel like i've got a pretty good handle on grades.
i've been to jack's three times now, and find it an immesely enjoyable place to climb, with good rock, interesting routes, and some really great sport climbs.
mind you, i'm not a sport climber at heart, so it IS a novelty area for me.
as for grades...they are all over the map. you can't call the place "soft", nor can you call it "stout"
i went there last saturday. we did something called "pocket punks" or something like that on the right end of the main wall. at 5.11c/d, i thought it was burly. the first 25' of the route is a stout V4 boulder problem, into another 20 feet of enduro edging. oldskool 5.11plus in my estimation. took me three tries...less effort than a lot of 5.12 trad routes i've done.
there are a couple of 5.12 routes on the casino wall i've done that were 20' V4/5 boulder problems that finished with 30' of 5.9 climbing. i guess they were 5.12, in the sport climbing sense of the grade.
i can't comment on easier 5.11 or 5.10 climbs...the only ones i've done were at the end of a day of "jack's 5.12's", with quite a few drinks under my belt, and a thrashed body.
what is the point of even asking the question? if you want to test yourself against solid, consolidated grades, go th the valley or the needles or the gunks. butterballs is THE standard for 5.11c, foops is THE standard for 5.11a, the crucifix is THE standard for multi-pitch valley 5.12a, etc.
if you want to have fun, get worked, and enjoy fine climbing on well-bolted routes where you don't have to worry about getting hurt, go to jacks. i'm going back there tomorrow, before it gets to hot. that swiss cheeese arete thing on the main wall looks stellar, and after having scoped it for 15 minutes with my buddy john, who like me has been climbing 5.12 trad for 25+ years, we both think it looks pretty fucking 5.12a, which is what the guide gives it.
lose the grade fetish. clip, plug, go, have fun. whatever.
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climbsomething
Jun 7, 2005, 3:45 AM
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In reply to: i went there last saturday.
In reply to: i'm going back there tomorrow, before it gets to hot. |
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bvb
Jun 7, 2005, 4:10 AM
Post #35 of 44
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In reply to: I know! I have to post that photo of you tying in.
those snap-link things sure are confusing.
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jt512
Jun 7, 2005, 4:40 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: i went there last saturday. I know! I have to post that photo of you tying in.
Post it at boldering.com
-Jay
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azrockclimber
Jun 7, 2005, 5:11 PM
Post #37 of 44
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definitelty
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climbingfoo
Jun 7, 2005, 5:49 PM
Post #38 of 44
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If ($ratingsmattertoyou == “true”) {
print “Some routes there are soft but still fun!”;
} elsif ($ratingsmattertoyou == “false”) {
print “No, Jacks is really really and I mean really stout! j/k”;
} else {
print “Have fun!”;
}
For me: set $ratingsmattertoyou = “Don’t care”
Ah, nice break from work :D Well back to the grind.
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crimpandgo
Jun 7, 2005, 6:12 PM
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The crowds bother me worse than the ratings..... Then again I only seem to make it up there on 3-day holiday weekends :oops:
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ikefromla
Jun 7, 2005, 6:49 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: i went there last saturday. I know! I have to post that photo of you tying in. Post it at boldering.com -Jay |
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bvb
Jun 7, 2005, 7:14 PM
Post #41 of 44
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In reply to: ROPE DAB! n00b!
shit. i am so busted.
ok hillary, how much for the negatives?
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dontmaytagme
May 17, 2007, 6:11 AM
Post #42 of 44
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curt
May 17, 2007, 6:30 AM
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dontmaytagme wrote: [quote "curt"][quote]Is Jacks soft?[/quote] No. I'm pretty sure that if you can lead 5.12 at Jacks, you will also have no problem sending 5.12 in the Gunks. Please test out my thesis and let me know what you think. Curt[/quote] I wouldn't make that a general rule.. from personal experience, ymmv.
You have the quoting all fucked up. And additionally, I was being sarcastic.
Curt
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CMAX1
May 20, 2007, 5:11 PM
Post #44 of 44
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Registered: Jan 19, 2007
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Jack's is a great place to climb. It is a beautiful canyon w/ lots of routes. Leave the guidebook in the car. Climb what inspires you, there is plenty to choose from.
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