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gibsonjs
Feb 25, 2005, 2:29 AM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
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I am going to be in yosemite this year and I am picking up a little more aid what would people suggest as my first aid wall. I can lead 5.10. I am looking for more of a free route.
Thanks for your time
Jeffrey
gibsonjs@15meu.usmc.mil
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epic_ed
Feb 25, 2005, 2:37 AM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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The south face of Washington Column. It's one that many first time visitors to the Valley pick, and for a lot of reasons. It's a reasonable length; the aid is easy; most pitches can be freed at 5.8 and under; niiiiice bivy ledge at the top of P3. Be prepared for the heavy traffic, though. And do everyone a favor -- get your systems dialed before trying it in the Valley. In particular, make sure you can lead/clean a roof. You'll have a better time and everyone else will appreciate you not clogging the route any more than it already is.
Ed
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dagawebb
Feb 28, 2005, 5:05 AM
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Registered: May 13, 2003
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I would recommend the West Face of leaning Tower. My reasons are that it is overhanging and makes it easier for a first timer to haul and not worry so much about a bad haul. Secondly you are overhanging and can tend to be easier to lead on. Nice easy roof pitch to learn on. Great bivy ledges not so much of a crowd to climb past or wait for. Bad point is you need to have your stuff dialed and have to be moving fast to avoid climbing by night (happened to me), it was my first wall. The best part is that is an easy easy decent and you dont have to worry about the north dome Gully decent scary scary scary.The best way to gauge it is if there is bucketloads of traffic on the south face jump on West Face or vice versa.
My two cents worth
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mingleefu
Feb 28, 2005, 5:55 AM
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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In reply to: The south face of Washington Column. ... Be prepared for the heavy traffic, though.
For what it is worth, I was in the valley last year and climbed SFWC as my first wall. My partner was less experienced even than me (I led every pitch) and we ended up taking two attempts to finish the wall. The whole time, we never ran into any other parties. In two attempts, we saw NO traffic on the wall. This was during the first/second weeks of August. SFWC is notorious for big traffic, but we didn't experience that at all. Results may vary.
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addiroids
Feb 28, 2005, 6:32 AM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
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North Dome gully is no big deal. At all. Just give yourself 2 hours with a pig and you will be fine. Seriously it isn't that bad.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali dirtbag
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addiroids
Feb 28, 2005, 6:34 AM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
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You want something with a ton of free with like 5 pitches of EASY aid? Try Half Dome. The free climbing on that route is absolutely beautiful, and the aids climbing is easy, short, safe, fast, and easy to clean. It is a long day, but if you are first on the route, that will help.
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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