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beyond_gravity
Jun 27, 2002, 3:55 PM
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Well the summer Glacier season has begun! At this time in year there are still snow bridges, however they are very unstable. It’s mostly bare ice around the crevasses. Some people swear to staying roped up all the time…which in my mind is very dangerous on bare ice…but when crossing the snow bridges do you normally place an ice screw, go unroped or just stink your axe in and hope it doesn’t come out in a fall??
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punk
Jun 27, 2002, 5:12 PM
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dittos
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bradhill
Jun 27, 2002, 6:29 PM
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We all know that if you're a world class alpinist and know about glaciers like Muggs Stump or Babu Sherpa, you don't need to rope up.
What? These world class climbers died in crevasse falls?
But, if you're on a safe or well-traveled mountain like Hood or Ranier, you're OK, right?
What? There were multiple fatality crevasse falls on both those mountains in the last month?
Nah... too much trouble to carry a twin rope, webbing harness, single biner and two prussiks.
I personally plunged partway into completely hidden crevasse last August, less than 250 vertical feet above the neve line where I thought all the cracks were still quite well exposed. You never know, and I was glad to be roped up.
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punk
Jun 27, 2002, 6:53 PM
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Rope on a glacier is a mix blessing.
Rope can get you out of trouble or get you in one. roping up is a judgment call…(base on strength and experience of the party).
Before you hit the mountain plot your route (with escape routes too)
Have a very thorough knowledge of what you up against
MAKE SURE THAT EVERYONE IN YOUR PARTY KNOW HOW TO SELF ARREST FROM ANY POSITION
Get a wicked early start and pick up a cold or cool night/day to climb
Get of the summit (or turn back) by 10 am
Be fast man…fast…not to be confused with haste
Ditto for the post below when on steep ground and running belay
*And when in doubt strap it out*
this is only the tip of the iceberg...
hope it helped
Climb safe
[ This Message was edited by: punk on 2002-06-27 17:30 ]
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bradhill
Jun 27, 2002, 8:57 PM
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Also, don't climb directly above or below another rope team and unrope or use a solid running belay when you're on steep ice.
Still, there are no good reasons not to rope up when travelling crevassed terrain with any amount of snow cover.
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beyond_gravity
Jul 3, 2002, 2:27 AM
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I dont rope up if it's just Ice...in my mind it's better to only have one person take the plunge then the whole team. have you ever tryed to self arrest on ice? It would take forever to set up a belay everything! I guess you could do some kind of modifyed simuel climbing.
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