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alpinerock
May 1, 2005, 11:42 PM
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The only piece of training equipment i own is a hangboard, lacking the space and monetary resources to buy/build anything more, but it seems that all of the trainiing i can do on my hangboard is next to useless, i have resorted to one hand mono campusing to get anykind of pump, and that doesn't seem to be specific enough to help my climbing and too dangerous. At what level of climbing does a hangboard become useless?
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altelis
May 1, 2005, 11:55 PM
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a hangboard, without any other kind of training, is always useless
at this point you aren't working on any kind of technique but rather only strength
and you may not be gaining that much more muscle strenght, but at the least you are maintaining the strength you have---and you can always work on endurance, kinda.....
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pushsendnorcal
May 2, 2005, 2:52 AM
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In reply to: a hangboard, without any other kind of training, is always useless at this point you aren't working on any kind of technique but rather only strength and you may not be gaining that much more muscle strenght, but at the least you are maintaining the strength you have---and you can always work on endurance, kinda.....
In terms of pure strength training, the hangboard is the best piece of equipment. I just can't see the hangboard ever becoming useless. To prove this point, can you hang the most difficult grip 1 arm (or do 1 arm lock-offs or do 1 arm pull-ups from that grip) I honestly doubt you can do this unless of course you climb very hard or your hangboard is for beginners.
altelis=retard
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overlord
May 2, 2005, 10:31 AM
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add some weight.
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legless
May 3, 2005, 7:02 PM
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one arm, mono campusing? uh....either A. T2 or B. you are in the 99th percentile of the climbing population for raw finger strength..
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cintune
May 3, 2005, 7:11 PM
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When you stop using it.
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korntera
May 3, 2005, 7:20 PM
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I have a metolius simulator and it is still very usefull to me, however i only climb mid tens and do the intermediate workout, I can barely do a pullup with two fingers, i couldn't hang from one finger if my life depended on it. For you however you might have used the hangboard up. At the very least use it to STAY strong, not to get stronger.
-Travis
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keinangst
May 3, 2005, 7:22 PM
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As soon as you buy it!!
Hehe, just kidding. I had one for about a year, and for my purposes it was the most tedious apparatus I have ever owned.
It DOES have its value, I'm sure, but it's far too esoteric for my needs as a weekend warrior. If it is used as a supplement to regular climbing, assuming you feel that contact strength is your weakness, I can see the advantages.
I tried to use it to keep up strength when not climbing for sometimes 2-3 weeks on end, and I found that short-term strength losses in my core, legs, and back had a lot more to do with my abilities than my fingers. YMMV, and probably will.
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jt512
May 5, 2005, 2:57 AM
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In reply to: I have a metolius simulator and it is still very usefull to me, however i only climb mid tens...
Sorry, but what has led you to believe that the hangboard is useful to you?
-Jay
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billcoe_
May 5, 2005, 3:33 AM
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In reply to: Sorry, but what has led you to believe that the hangboard is useful to you? -Jay
JT -thread drift dude, thread drift. Stay on the line, follow the thread.
Back to the origonal question: check out this: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/
http://www.nicros.com/...iding%20injury.shtml
The point, not mentioned on the sites: add weight.
But read that part about injuries slowly.
Take care:
Bill
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jt512
May 5, 2005, 3:37 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Sorry, but what has led you to believe that the hangboard is useful to you? -Jay JT -thread drift dude, thread drift. Stay on the line, follow the thread.
You say "thread drift" like it's a bad thing.
Besides, I think the question "at what point does a hangboard become useful" is close enough.
-Jay
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altelis
May 5, 2005, 4:00 AM
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pushsendnorcal-
seriously? 5th grade? 4th grade? am i getting close? retard?
did you even read my post? at all?
i completely qualified my remark:
In reply to: at this point you aren't working on any kind of technique but rather only strength
what i said, if you really need this spelled out is: a hang board does NOT work technique but rather only on strength
so what do you reply with:
In reply to: In terms of pure strength training, the hang board is the best piece of equipment
what did i say again? oh yea, i remember-that the hang board only works for building strength. could that be the same as "pure strength training"? nah, couldn't be.
and we all KNOW that climbing is all about strength-you could just do hang board exercises all day long, never climb on rock or in the gym, then jump on a 13. no technique necessary
yes, a hang board is useful-but for what? building strength. what does that strength get you in terms of climbing? nothing all that impressive unless you have the technique to match.
so before you accuse me of some sort of mental deficiencies, in a quite childish manner i might add (altelis=retard, wow, what a complex thought expressed in a complex manner!), go back, practice those reading skills, and look at what was actually posted.
sorry for the thread drift....
:oops:
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valeberga
May 5, 2005, 4:13 AM
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Timed lockoff curcuits, at various angles and positions.
Or hell, just flip it upside down!
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alpinerock
May 16, 2005, 10:19 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: i have resorted to one hand mono campusing to get anykind of pump Well, there are two possible answers to your question in light of this quote: 1. If you are aware that you are claiming to be able to move between holds without your feet resting on anything, using only one finger of one hand, then your campus board is useless because you are the strongest human being who has ever lived and almost certainly hold every trophy, medal, title and award for rock climbing that exists. 2. If you are not aware that that's what you're claiming then you have many years of hang board training ahead of you, along with years of actually learning the terminology of climbing. I'll leave everyone else to judge which is the more likely by having a quick look at your profile. Good luck!
Haha, wow i just checked this thread, i didn't mean campusing like moving in between holds, i meant one hand mono hangs, no feet but not moving in between holds. wow my orginal sounded cocky now that i read it that way, thanks for helping me clarify.
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