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pelliott
Jul 10, 2002, 9:49 PM
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Does anyone have any good pointers to help me get better at jamming?
I hope to get in to the gym tonight to practice. As it stands I just thrash on anything that is too small to get my whole arm or leg into.
I am just frustrated.
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wigglestick
Jul 10, 2002, 9:58 PM
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It is hard to practice crack technique at the gym. I have yet to see a realistic crack in a gym and even if it did exist you would only get good at climbing that particular crack. You need to get experience outside before you will ever get good at crack climbing. And it doesn't hurt to have a high pain threshold.
[ This Message was edited by: wigglestick on 2002-07-10 15:04 ]
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beyond_gravity
Jul 10, 2002, 10:24 PM
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with Handjamming make sure you tuck your tumb in, when you do this it takes alot of stress of your fingures!
I need help with Fingure cracks, I can get fingure locks in but I cant get my feet in the crack.
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jt512
Jul 10, 2002, 10:51 PM
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Absolutely the best thing in writing about crack technique is here. Also, the post by "Dingus Milktoast" to which the above is a reply is good.
-Jay
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fingerjam
Jul 10, 2002, 10:56 PM
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"hand cam" as some dude called it. Put your hand in the crack, vertical, and then jam your thumb down acrossed your hand. Almost like a caming action, i guess. If its big enough you could fist your hand and then turn it untill it gets jammed in there. I have seen a lot of people try to attack cracks with there face right in front of the crack. For me, it is much easier on some cracks if i put my hands on one side of the crack and then lean back and walk up it, on the side. Its hard to explain. Try not to pull on poth sides of the crack, cuz thats just too much work I hope my way of explaining things helps
laterz
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okieterry
Jul 12, 2002, 10:05 PM
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Being from Oklahoma, where there are not too many crack climbs, I used to really suck at crack climbing. However, about 20 years ago I met a climber named Mark Rolofson in Colorado who told me about a "crack machine". I came back and built one and started practicing on it and before you know it, I was starting to love cracks.
It really helps.
I have a twenty foot crack machine in a tree in my backyard right now that is set up at a 10 degree overhang. I play on it almost every day. It is totally adjustable from fists to fingers.
The crack machine consists of two twenty foot boards that are 2" by 12". Every four feet are two bolts with washers and nuts that maintain the spread between the boards. I suggest you paint the inside of your machine with some textured paint with a little grit.
Don't set it up too steep or you'll not play on it as much. Too start with, set it up vertical or slightly overhanging. Use tape until your hands get used to it.
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metoliusmunchkin
Jul 19, 2002, 6:23 PM
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Myself, I find great difficulty while climbing cracks as well - the entire process in fact. The total entities which are acquired through crack climbing such as hand jamming, finger jamming, as well as foot jamming. Any particular movement associated with a jamming manoeuvre is simply one of my flaws while climbing.
As I have learned through certain discussions with a man named Andrew Gram, it important while crack climbing that your finger, hand, and foot jamming placements do not last an exceeding amount of time (exceeding of time that would break or disturb a flowing motion). This is to say that while crack climbing and utilizing jamming placements, it is important to keep moving as quickly as possible in order to ensure fluidity of movement.
Terry (okieterry) wrote:
Quote:I have a twenty foot crack machine in a tree in my backyard right now that is set up at a 10 degree overhang. I play on it almost every day. It is totally adjustable from fists to fingers.
I am interested for you to explain to me how this can surely aid climbing ability. Can the rock simply "adjust" to the climber's liking? Surely it is not made of rock, how could it possible provide accurate, not to mention adequate simulation?
Quote:The crack machine consists of two twenty foot boards that are 2" by 12". Every four feet are two bolts with washers and nuts that maintain the spread between the boards. I suggest you paint the inside of your machine with some textured paint with a little grit.
It really helps.
How?
Again, is wood painted with specialized textured paint adding "a little grit" an adequate simulation? Bear in mind that I do not wish to cause commotion in confronting this situation, I simply wish to ask questions to better suit my curiosity.
Basically, what I'm driving at here is this: is this thing adequately designed to provide you a good training basis to aid your crack climbing abilities? Would not an actual crack prove more than suffice?
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jammer
Jul 19, 2002, 6:56 PM
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dispite the name ... i really suc* at it. The best advice I can give you is tape, tape and more tape. Either that, or buy a 'hand jammer' glove. This will keep the skin on.
Placing your hand in far enough to 'twist' and lock is one way. To lock it off with your thumb is another. If the crack is wide enough for a fist, then jam and twist. Pratice on real rock is the only way. Plastic just doesn't cut the way real rock does. Wish I could be more help
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natec
Jul 19, 2002, 7:05 PM
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Try to get a hold of Karlbaba, I read one of his posts one time that described technique on jamming and it was excellent.
Karl maybe you can elighten some of us?
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cyberclimber
Jul 19, 2002, 7:23 PM
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I think wigglestick is right, the only way to really improve on your crack climbing skills is to get on the rock and practice. Often I find that I can hang from a bomber hand jam and feel totally secure whereas I could feel myself slipping off from a very similar jam just and inch or two away. You have to work with what the rock gives you and be inovative, try thumb-up, thumb down, this finger over that one, different types of grips and go with what feels secure, look and feel for constrictions in the rock,,,it's hard to explain. Tape up and try to find what works for you.
okieterry- I think I have the idea of your climb machine in my mind, I'm curious as to how far apart your bolts are placed (sorry, just re-read your post, every four feet, got it) and if you vary the number of washers to change the crack width or do you just have it the same width all the way. Also, is the crack parrallel? I know about the texture sand you can buy to add to your paint, it's used on porches alot, good idea. I'm wondering how you anchor the top and bottom of your crack machine. My yard is a bit small for the climbing wall I have been thinking of building, the crack machine might be just the idea I'm looking for. Have any drawings handy?
[ This Message was edited by: cyberclimber on 2002-07-19 12:27 ]
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metoliusmunchkin
Jul 19, 2002, 7:25 PM
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Yes, I too would be definitely interested in seeing any type of drawing or picture shown to better describe the crack machine. It's very fascinating to me.
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radistrad
Jul 19, 2002, 7:33 PM
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You'll love this link, Climb those nasty crackshttp://flash.lakeheadu.ca/~lurock/crack.html
My advice, learn to use your feet in the cracks I can out crack climb my stronger partner just because I can use my feet.
I encourage "pinki down" jamming, step high and reach high, you may find you can reach through cruxes with good technique
And a bad picture of my crack machine http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=3391And my post on how I made my crack machine http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=7660&forum=36&13. Enjoy
[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-07-19 12:34 ]
[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-07-19 12:39 ]
[ This Message was edited by: radistrad on 2002-07-19 13:00 ]
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timmyclimber
Jul 19, 2002, 7:40 PM
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i understand why he suggested the crack machine. It is not supposed to be a supplement to rock, its just getting the echnique semi familiar where crack climbs on natural rock are sparse. Its not a bad idea, but in no way a good supplement to real rock. Personally, my biggest problem is getting my freaking foot in a crack! they never seem to fit!
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superdiamonddave
Jul 19, 2002, 7:56 PM
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Metoliusmunchkin:
I have climbed on Okieterry's crack machine. He has it basically set up for hand jambs right now, but it is adjustable. I can guarantee it works a person pretty hard, especially if you make it steeper. Terry is one of those people who loves crack climbing.
He has done numerous big walls with trad climbing crack skills. Since the nearest good place for him to crack climb is quite a drive, he decided to come up with something close to home for when he gets the urge.
Hopefully, Terry will respond with a more specific way to make one. It works and moreover, it's fun.
[ This Message was edited by: superdiamonddave on 2002-07-19 13:03 ]
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superdiamonddave
Jul 19, 2002, 8:08 PM
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It may be a while before Okieterry responds. He just went to Yosemite with a friend of his for a "vacation climbing trip".
Lucky him.
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climbsomething
Jul 19, 2002, 8:22 PM
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What makes the least sense to me is foot jamming! I am not a quick study when it comes to cracks... oh noo...
crackaddict would be a good resource here (surprise, surprise! ) if he can subject himself to my lack o' crack technique, he can help anyone Chris: come out come out wherever you arrrrrrrrre....
((total lack o' crack... heehee!))
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jt512
Jul 19, 2002, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
What makes the least sense to me is foot jamming! I am not a quick study when it comes to cracks
Just climb cracks the way any good sport climber would: See pic here.
-Jay
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crackaddict
Jul 19, 2002, 11:28 PM
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Here I am.
My first tip would be to start on hand cracks. The are usually most comfortable and good hand jam is always solid.
The main thing I see wrong when beginers learn to crack climb is that.
1.They don't trust thier jams.
2.Rather than placing thier jams they slide thier hands down the crack till it gets stuck.
3.They don't jam thier feet.
Now the trusting jams comes after learning how to use them. And logging some hours on some cracks.
Placing jams. Rather than sliding your hand down the crack till it gets stuck. Place your jam at eye level or the best feeling spot and squeeze your hand inside the crack.
Don't slide the hand!
This technique is poor and will result in loss of skin.
I have seen this and it is'nt pretty.
After you hands are placed it time for the feet.
Put your toes in vertically with the big toe up first, then twist them.
Then stand up. Then repeat!
Ouch! Oh yeah jamming is more about pain tolerance sometimes.
There are so many jams to do with your hands that I would be typing for days to explain them all.
Oh yeah I want to show off my crack machine
Here
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-07-19 16:31 ]
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metoliusmunchkin
Jul 20, 2002, 9:23 AM
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Dave - thanks man!
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clam
Jul 22, 2002, 4:25 AM
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Jay, Ah, I finally understand foot jamming. Thanks for the instructive pic.
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