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taino
Oct 18, 2005, 9:00 PM
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I'm going to be dropping some (major frikken) coin on a set of crampons, this season; I know enough to bring my boots with me and make sure that they fit properly, and that will be the true final decision. I've winnowed my hopefuls down to the BD Bionics, and the Grivel G14s. I've used both in the past (well, M10s), and find that they're both excellent.
Nevertheless...
I'd like to hear from anyone who has had good or bad experiences with either brand/model. I'm not asking you to tell me which I should get; I'm asking for your feedback based on real life experience.
If there are other models one might suggest, feel free to offer that as well; I've only used those two models. Main use will be vertical waterfall ice WI2-4+.
Thanks in advance. Feel free to send me a PM if you don't want to post on the Board.
Cheers,
Tai
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tejz
Oct 18, 2005, 10:21 PM
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I have owned both the bionics and the G-14s. The G-14s are my favorite and are currently the pair I use. The reason I like the G-14s over the bionics is that they fit my boots(koflachs) better by far I also like the secondary points on the G-14 more than the bionics. If you look at the front points on the bionics you will notice that when climbing with your heal down like you are suppose to the secondary points don't offer as stable of a base as the G-14s do. Well just my 2 cents good luck on selecting your crampons.
*edited for spelling
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montafoner
Oct 18, 2005, 11:03 PM
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Taino, If you're getting the G-14's or Bionic's and don't mind a slightly used model (1 season), then check out the climbing school office in the back of the EMS in North Conway. You can also call them. They're selling for about 30-50% off. I'll dig up the number...dig...dig...dig...
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changling
Oct 19, 2005, 7:04 AM
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I went to the store, planning on getting the bionics because on a previous visit I saw that they fit my boots better. When I returned to the store to make my purchase, they were out, and since I was heading out to climb the next day and needed crampons, I got the G-14s instead.
The heal of the crampons stick out a bit when they are on my boots, but it hasn't taken anything away from the performance. I'm very satisfied with my G-14s. I can't say anything about the bionics since I've never climbed with them.
You can read the thread I started 2 years ago when I was trying to decide what to get: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...order=asc&highlight=
The jist of it: the bionics are good, but the G-14s are a little better.
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jimdavis
Oct 19, 2005, 10:49 AM
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I climbed on the G14's and liked em well enough.
I'd recommend the NEW Bionics though.
http://www.bdel.com/images/gear/bionic.jpg
Having those 3rd set of teeth inclined backwards can be a big friggin help. I had a pair of Harpoon mono-points, and just bought a pair of Darts so I can pull on stuff.
I haven't used any BD crampons myself though, they don't make any that fit my boots.
Good luck,
Jim
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esp71
Oct 20, 2005, 12:20 AM
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I have bionics that I got on a special pro deal when I worked for REI. I ordered them without trying them out first 'cause the price was sooo good. I put them on my boots(Koflach degree) at home and they seemed to be on tight even though the toe bail didn't quite drop into the welt. I beat on them a bit and pulled and twisted and decided they were alright. They weren't. They popped off while climbing. I was top-roping on easy terrain, but it scared me and was a big pain. No amount of tightening ever fixed the problem. I finally took a dremel to the toe welt of the boot, carving a slightly different channel for the toe bail and now they stay on.
They always felt solid in the ice and I've been happy with them since I fixed 'em
Crucial lesson: fit 'em to your boots first. It really sucked to deal with.
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lambone
Oct 20, 2005, 6:08 AM
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I have G-14's, very happy with them, and sold off a pair of older Bionics. The Bionics are heavier and didn't seem to work as well.
I really like the classic Sabertooths though.
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jimdavis
Oct 20, 2005, 6:17 AM
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In reply to: I have G-14's, very happy with them, and sold off a pair of older Bionics. The Bionics are heavier and didn't seem to work as well. I really like the classic Sabertooths though.
Really?! I thought the G-14's weighted quite a bit...hard to imagine that the Bionics weigh more than them...
I wouldn't rule out the Sabertooths either...there are a lot of people that perfer those for some hard stuff. If you look around at pics of people climbing nasty routes, you'll see Sabertooths on a lot of them.
Great all around performers, just can't go monopoints with them or anything.
For that matter, check out the Charlet Sarkin's. They've got to be lighter than the g-14, and with the sidelock system (which kicks ass) you can put different fronts onto the same setup. Eg. Darts , Dartwin's, ect. al on the same bars and backs.
I just used my Dart drytooling today, and I can honestly say they are awesome...and I didn't even heel hook anything yet!
The Charlet sidelock setup is really nice though, go to a shop and put it on a boot...I think you'll be impressed.
Cheers,
Jim
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pazer0
Oct 20, 2005, 7:43 PM
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I have the bionics and a pair of older sabertooths. I've climbed the bionics with monopoint setup and really like them. Never had them come off my Invernos or my Nepal Extremes. Climbed with a guide last year who had just gotten a pair of G-14's and they came off his boots twice. Had to use the Sabertooths last year and was surprised at how well they performed. I would buy the sabertooths again if I needed a new pair. For info, I've been climbing for 4 years - moderate experience. Good luck. Sounds like you can't go wrong with either, as long as they fit.
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tradklime
Oct 20, 2005, 9:58 PM
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The G-14's rule.
They are extremely light, much lighter than bionics. Better front points too, that powder coating on the bionics suck. The older bionics suffered from poor secondary points, I believe they have recently impoved this. Same goes for the sabertooths, I believe. The sabertooth's are a worthy option.
Don't get hung up on having a bunch of funcky serrations, heel spars, and backward facing points. Us punters who visit this site don't need 'em. You are just more likely to hurt yourself.
Simple, light, great stick, versatile... G-14
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jimdavis
Oct 21, 2005, 4:23 AM
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Yeah, the Dart don't come standard with Spurs anymore.
I think having points you can pull with, inclined to the back, is very valuable to have though. Wrapping your leg around a piller, raking your foot on rock, leaning off to the side off a pull with your foot...ect.
I think they're really valuable to have, and can be very convient...If your just doing straight up ice though, you probably won't use them that often. It's just something I wish I has on my first pair of crampons.
Cheers,
Jim
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stymingersfink
Oct 21, 2005, 6:45 PM
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the real question is....
WHERE THE HECK ARE YOU FINDING THE ICE ALREADY?!
come on, fess up. I need my fix.
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taino
Oct 21, 2005, 6:50 PM
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In reply to: the real question is.... WHERE THE HECK ARE YOU FINDING THE ICE ALREADY?! come on, fess up. I need my fix.
I'd tell you, but I'd have to kill you. ;)
Thanks for all the great feedback, folks. :D
T
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crag
Oct 21, 2005, 6:56 PM
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I use the Rambo M for most of my ice climbing with the G12s for low angle and glacial climbs. I use the Cramp-O-Matic binding for both poons and have never had a problem with them puking of my boot.
"Instead of making the gear adapt to the climber the climber adapts to the gear with in the confines of their abilities there is found a symbiotic relationship bordering on the superstitious."
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