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2dreamers
Jul 20, 2006, 6:36 AM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2005
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what is best guide book for rumney for first time visit?
any local rock shop that may have it?
best place to camp?
will be there first week of Aug for sport and trad
any suggestions for multi-pitch trad routes to 5.9?
if you have a used book i could buy let me know
better yet if you'd like to join my girlfriend and i, your more than welcome we like threesomes or more (for climbing only) 5.10 sport & 5.9 trad
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taino
Jul 20, 2006, 12:22 PM
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In reply to: what is best guide book for rumney for first time visit? any local rock shop that may have it? best place to camp? will be there first week of Aug for sport and trad any suggestions for multi-pitch trad routes to 5.9? if you have a used book i could buy let me know better yet if you'd like to join my girlfriend and i, your more than welcome we like threesomes or more (for climbing only) 5.10 sport & 5.9 trad
The best guide book for Rumney - and, I think, the ONLY guide book - is "A Rock Climber's Guide to Rumney", by Ward Smith.
Camp? Damfino. There are some ideas in the guidebook.
There is NO TRAD CLIMBING AT RUMNEY. Also, there is only one multipitch route - a 5.2, two-pitch, low-angle slab route called "Clippety Doo-Dah".
T
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sirlancelot
Jul 20, 2006, 12:50 PM
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Unfortunately your info is inaccurate Taino. There is a some trad climbing to be had at rumney. I personally would not bring my rack there for the 1 trad route mixed in between every 15 sport routes. And there are mutlipitch climbs at Rumney(main wall). So far my favorite climb at Rumney was the 2 pitch Rock Du Jour. I recommend the second pitch 5.9+ direct route which traverses left on a steep overhanging angle. Absolutely awesome exposure and perfect picture spot if you remember to bring your camera.
For camping the cheapest is right across the road behind the big open field, on privately ownened property. You could also spend 25 or more to stay at a campsite on 25, which has full bath facilities.
Get yourself the guidebook before you go.
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taino
Jul 20, 2006, 1:14 PM
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In reply to: Unfortunately your info is inaccurate Taino. There is a some trad climbing to be had at rumney. I personally would not bring my rack there for the 1 trad route mixed in between every 15 sport routes. And there are mutlipitch climbs at Rumney(main wall). So far my favorite climb at Rumney was the 2 pitch Rock Du Jour. I recommend the second pitch 5.9+ direct route which traverses left on a steep overhanging angle. Absolutely awesome exposure and perfect picture spot if you remember to bring your camera. For camping the cheapest is right across the road behind the big open field, on privately ownened property. You could also spend 25 or more to stay at a campsite on 25, which has full bath facilities. Get yourself the guidebook before you go.
I stand corrected.
T
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jakedatc
Jul 20, 2006, 1:24 PM
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what Sir said.. and to add there are a few bolted multipitch sport routes that are pretty high quality.
Metamorphasis 5.9 on main cliff (2 lines to the right of Armed and dangerous 10b) not in the book
Tropicana 11a orange crush
a few bolted link ups or trad multi's on Main cliff
if you climb .13 Predator has a .11 something first pitch to a bolted belay
if you want to practice you can take some of the routes from Lower new wave up to Upper new wave instead of the trail. easiest would be Sixth Sense .6 to Air and pleasant danger .8+.
probably a few others but check it out in the book.. it's pretty easy to find
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nsintros
Jul 20, 2006, 10:33 PM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2004
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You should know the main cliff may still be closed for nesting. I know its usually closed until august, but maybe into august too.
The book is just called "Rumney" by Ward Smith. Most gear stores will have the book. The book is pretty outdated. There are a ton of routes that aren't in it, which can be kind of confusing sometimes to find the route you are looking for.
Clip a Dee Doo Dah is fun route to finish the day on and chill at the top. It is really easy though. As others have said its almost not really worth it to bring the rack. A lot of the trad routes are R/X. A lot of the ones that are not R/X aren't very good, there are a few good decent ones. I go to the Gunks or the Daks for trad.
I have heard there is a house like 1/4mi from the parking lot that lets you camp in their back yard. I think its mentioned in the book.
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2dreamers
Jul 21, 2006, 10:17 AM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2005
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thank you all for the input to my trip to rumney
what is trad like at other NH areas? suggestions?
with 12 days available it's all a road trip anyway, so a couple days sport then i have to have my trad
just looking for alternatives to the red for a change, live in MI so anything in-between here and rumney is worth a look. Main guide i use is "rock and road atlas"
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napoleon_in_rags
Jul 21, 2006, 11:43 AM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2004
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Trad in NH? Cannon, Cathedral, Franconia Notch - lots to pick from.
Between MI and NH? You could swing south and hit WV, stop in New York at the Gunks or the Daks on the way, a lot of options if you have enough time.
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mcgivney_nh
Jul 21, 2006, 12:44 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2005
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when are you headed up??
I'm always looking for a partner if you need one.
-Sean
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olderic
Jul 21, 2006, 2:12 PM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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Just to add another data point. Holderness School Corner at Rumney is one of the nicest TRAD 5.8's anywhere.
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jammer
Jul 21, 2006, 3:13 PM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
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Rumney has trad climbing at Crows Nest, Hinterlands, Prudential and Northwest Territories also. The trouble is the hike up there ... take your time and don't burn out. Besides Rumney, there is Franconia Notch area which covers Cannon, Echo Cliff, Artist Bluff, Eagle Cliff, Profile Cliff, Hounds Hump Ridge etc, which is just up 93. If you head over to North Conway area, there is Cathedral, Whitehorse and Humphrey's Ledge, all close together. You'll also find a lot to climbing on the Kang. Hwy, if you like Alpine style climbing.
As for camping, check out the routes database for Rumney. I've placed as many camping area as I could find there.
Drop me a PM when you are heading up this way. I may be able to join you for a few days.
Alan
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