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booger
Jul 26, 2006, 12:18 PM
Post #1 of 8
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Registered: May 23, 2003
Posts: 1163
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AKA the world's longest TR... :D
Paolo75 and I arrive at the campsite bar in Valle del Orco (11+ hours from Brussels) late in the evening July 5, just in time for the second half of the France-Portugal World Cup match. Too road-rashed to watch for long, we head for bed. The next morning, lady luck is as absent for us as she was for the Portuguese - we awake to the sound of rain pattering on the tent flaps. We find the others (bellaitalia, heiko, steve-o and vegrock) doggedly pursuing the Kosterlitz crack despite the downpour. Needless to say, I stay nice and warm in the car like a sensible person.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76357
We find a dry crag to pass the rest of the day. That, and a vicious game of spoons (damn Paolo and his +296541684 ape index) tire us out plenty. The next morning we find all the big walls are still pretty wet, so we try a couple of small routes only to find...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76422
more bloody rain.
Finally, on day three... a bit of sunshine! Paolo and I take lessons from Heiko on how to make tape gloves. They made me feel a bit like Bruce Lee...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76356
So I spend most of the day dancing around and posing as various kara-téé experts while Paolo actually tries his out in rock.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76362
The rest of our little group spends the day sticking (or trying to stick) various body parts into "Desperation Crack". I believe this is the day Steve-o first earns his official nickname from Paolo: "bloody American crackclimber" (BAC). Yeah, baby got BAC. This nickname is well-earned and solidified 2 weeks later in the Dolomites when BAC repeatedly avoids any "bellissima" (read: solid rock) faceclimbing to find the "stinking" (read: incredibly f*cking loose) cracks on every pitch.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=75769
Finally, it is time to say goodbye to our friends and head towards Val Màsino. The Cassin route is up for grabs, but we have to do some recon work first. So, Paolo and I head for Val di Mello. I have been dreaming of this route for almost six months, but reports are that it is still wet/snowing in the mountains and we will find it in nasty condition. Reluctantly, we swap plans and decide to attempt the Spigolo Vinci. The next day (post World Cup victory = stupendous grappa hangover, little sleep) is spent on a grueling (see: post World Cup) 5+ hour approach to Refugio Gianotti.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76417
A wonderful hike all the same, with all of the impossibly beautiful sights that make the Alps such a special place to be...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76416
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76427
We spend the first day warming up to the rock on Dente della Vecchia.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76366
It is stupendous climbing- the clouds are at our feet, swirling up around us. The rock is perfect, with knobby (just like Lotus Flower) slabs and meandering chimneys. Nearing the top, a grand exposure against barren grey rock, everything is shades of grey on grey.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76365
We are now very excited for the Spigolo Vinci and set out early the next morning. It is a cold first pitch, but the view from the belay warms us.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76418
Unfortunately, we spend much too long looking at that view. The party ahead of us are moving slow, and have already lost their way several times (in 2 pitches!). After 45 minutes or so shivering, blowing into our gloves and waiting our turn, we realize that at this rate we will never finish the route before dark. We bail. We are exhausted and cold and thinking negatively. We are losers, so we decide to scrap the mountains and head for Venice (and the beach) early. Within 2 hours of our hike down, we have never felt better about any decision. An enormous thunderstorm has gathered around one mountain... Spizzo Cengalo. The storm is trapped in the upper valley, volleying around and around amongst the mountains. Lightening is flashing down every few moments. We are soaked to the bone in seconds, and slipping through mud as we descend, hoping the Italian party had time enough to bail and have made it down safely.
After a few days exploring Venice (Paolo's is from the island Lido), and meeting his family (a crash course in Venetian dialect... more stressful than any Epic I could conjure up) we are more than ready for the mountains again. We head for the Dolomites. If you have spent 5 minutes with Paolo, you know one thing about him for certain - he loves the Dolomites. They are 'his' mountains. He speaks of them reverentially, knows all of their names, their routes, their mythical climbers, their history, their colors at sunset and sunrise. They are, for him, home.
We spend the first couple of nights in the campsite Marmolada, along with 1416537403687541 other people who are there to attend what sounds like a horn-yodeling to accordion music concert in town. We do not sleep well, but it doesn't stop us. The first day we climb the Spigolo Piaz on Sass Pordoi. It is a beautiful classical route.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76428
The last four pitches are shared with Via Maria, which had a crowd of about 12 parties queued up. Instead of being insufferably annoying, the crowded atmosphere on those pitches is incredible. An Italian party of three are singing bawdy songs all the way, following a couple from Australia/New Zealand. Another Italian party of 4 ahead of them manage to have a classic Italian debate about where to place what gear, and climbing certainly wasn't going to stop them swearing imaginatively and gesticulating at each other. The rest of us are laughing, passing around our water and food and introducing ourselves. The last pitch of this route ends at the cable-car depot (read: bar/restaurant), and Paolo uses the metal support beams as the last belay. The railing is crammed with curious tourists peering at us through binoculars. Dammit, if I knew I was going to be famous I would have worn my Bruce Lee ninja tape-gloves!
That evening, Steve-O and Bellaitalia meet up with us for an attempt on La Fedele, a grueling IV+ (no kidding!) on the NW face. We intend to link the 18 pitch original route (which ends at a ledge) with 8+/- pitches of another route to reach the top. It is an unspeakably early morning start, and I am wondering why I have plugged the ass-crack of dawn to spend a beautiful sunny day freezing my butt off on a wet North face climb.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76419
Wet indeed! Two pitches of this climb (both of which Paolo led, ha-ha!) involve climbing directly through the waterfall which streaks the face. Unfortunately (not ha-ha!), cleaning those pitches involves a balancing act on wet feet while water runs onto your head, down your sleeves and (if you have them) across your boobs. Next time I will wear my raincoat.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76420
Paolo started up the 17th pitch. I watched Steve-O climb his way towards me at the belay station. He and Sarah were having a dramatic day fighting off two obnoxious Germans. The couple consistently clipped into their protection while trying to pass (they were only moderately faster because they were not in the route-finding position). Is it really that hard to verbally request to pass? Somebody should set up climbing etiquette classes for German Alpine clubs and make a fortune.
Finally, after 18 pitches... the ledge and success!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76421
We all decide to skip the second portion of the route. Steve-o had taken a long, death-defying fall on pitch 17 (I will let him elaborate when is so inclined) and our day is more than full of "Air passing by super-fast". A free-soloing Austrian guide who had passed us on the route buys us all a round of beer (and several more of grappa) at the bar. He is with a friend who turns out to be 71 year old Otti Wiedmann, one of the best climbers of his time holding many first-repetitions in the Dolomites (plus the first winter ascent of Marmolada's Vinatzer route in 1968) and many first-ascents near his hometown Innsbruck. We all have a wonderful dinner together, with many, many, too many + rounds of grappa to go around.
The four of us (Steve-o, bellaitalia, Paolo and I) spend the next couple of days unwinding and relaxing (gear-whoring around the climbing stores) in Arco, and cragging a bit at the Città di Sassi. The highlight is watching Bellaitalia cruise her way triumphantly up her first 6c.
Paolo and I then set out on our own for a route we never find on Sassolungo. After a very exciting but vomitously claustrophobic 2-person cable-car ride, we wander around and around the base looking for our first pitch. Then, I come up with the brilliant idea to scrap the route and follow the classic route of Spigolo del Pollice instead, where we saw a couple of parties lead up earlier in the day.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76510
We were without topo, but not to worry - Paolo has another great idea! We buy a postcard at the refugio and climb the sucker using that. I have no idea how many pitches or how hard that route was supposed to be but we had the time of our lives! It is an extremely exposed arête climb with great holds and fantastic views of both valleys. We cruise along, peeking at the postcard every now and then, making our own belay stations and suddenly, in what seems like 5 minutes, we have caught the party that had had been on the 5th pitch when we started. I'll keep that postcard until I die.
The last moments of a roadtrip are always bittersweet. Paolo and I rope up with bellaitalia and Steve-o, who lead out on our final route, Via Schoeber-Kleisl. The climbing is fabulous, the summit spectacular, and we all sign the first summit register I have yet seen in Europe. The perfect end to a perfect trip.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=76360
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paolo75
Jul 26, 2006, 12:35 PM
Post #2 of 8
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Registered: Apr 7, 2005
Posts: 275
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:D :D :D
can I swear in this site without being banned?
It was a great-great vacation....a combination of the best things in life....and, indeed, we won the world cup! :D 8^)
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heiko
Jul 26, 2006, 12:41 PM
Post #3 of 8
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Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 1505
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:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
wanted so much to be there with you guys........ work suxxxxxxxxxx!
:cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
Agree about the etiquette lessons for Germans. I should start the business (I'm German, too, after all). Don't know whether I would make a fortune or lose citizenship though...
Great TR, thanks for the pics. You rock! :)
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booger
Jul 26, 2006, 3:23 PM
Post #4 of 8
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Registered: May 23, 2003
Posts: 1163
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Thanks heikino! :D Don't worry, we missed you a lot while we were there, and we'll see you soon!! :D
-boogah
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paolo75
Jul 26, 2006, 3:31 PM
Post #5 of 8
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Registered: Apr 7, 2005
Posts: 275
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In reply to: Thanks heikino! :D Don't worry, we missed you a lot while we were there, and we'll see you soon!! :D -boogah
It's not true. :twisted:
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tisar
Jul 27, 2006, 9:37 AM
Post #6 of 8
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Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2577
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What could I say? Stunning!
Dente della Vecchia looks so tolkinesque... °W°O°W°!
- Daniel
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 27, 2006, 11:18 AM
Post #7 of 8
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
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Awesome trip report... Sounds like you had some real fun on some European classics. Trophy!!!
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steve-o
Deleted
Aug 10, 2006, 4:51 PM
Post #8 of 8
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Great TR Taz, glad I could join up with you guys on various parts of your vacation. I learned alot in the Dolomites, like:
1. What a large rock sounds like as it whistles past yer head
2. What I sound like as I whistle past the rock
3. What a piton sounds like as Heiko proves they weren't dead weight on his harness
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