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treddy
Oct 7, 2006, 1:12 AM
Post #1 of 3
(1008 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 47
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Aid climbing is something that has been on the back of my mind for years. For whatever reasons, though, I never actually saddled up and tried it. Until today. I stopped by REI to pick up some new shoes for the weekend. I take a moment to peruse the books nearby and they happen to have a solitary copy of the Long and Middledorf big wall book. I pick it up, never doubting I would buy it. Next aisle over…“oh look, they have aiders in stock”. And, before I know it, I’m cruising down the road to the local mini-crag trying to beat sundown while absorbing as much as possible from my new book at stop lights on the way.
Now, aid climbing is something about which I’ve thought for long stretches on numerous road trips. Augmented by a couple very informative conversations with experienced aid climbers, I felt I had figured out about enough to make it up my first pitch. As a quick bit of background, I’ve been trad climbing for a number of years now and feel very confident with gear placements and, perhaps more importantly, knots, ropes, anchors, belay systems, etc, etc, etc.
Of course, I didn’t have a partner on such short notice, so I decided my first aid climb would also be a solo aid climb. I dash up to the cliff and throw in a bomber anchor at the bottom of the crack as the sun first starts to wane. I drop in my first piece, stick on an aider, double check everything, and I’m off!! I think I learned more on that one 30ft pitch than on any other pitch in my life.
About three pieces up, night falls. I don my headlamp, which is ok, but I quickly realize evaluating placements is much harder at night. I also managed to blink out a contact, adding to the visual challenges. Now that I’m solo aid climbing partially blind by headlamp, I consider the possibilities for retreat. I work through the mechanics in my head and, confident I could get down safely at any point, I plod on. I learn the value of bounce testing, blowing out a dicey piece I thought was good but was hard to see (remember, climbing blind in the dark). I run low on gear and have to back clean to get back the only cam that will work above me. I forget to bring extra biners to clip the rope to nut placements, and have to steal some from other bits of my rack. I short rope myself about a dozen times with the clove hitch I’m using to as my “self-belay”. I realize clipping the piece above me before stepping onto it only puts my in more danger should the placement blow. And, about an hour later, I plop myself safely on the top of the pitch. I’m more tired than I expected, but feel great. Rap down, grab my gear, evaluate placements along the way, and I’m on my way home. At this rate, I estimate I could do el cap in a month!!
The real surprise came on the short drive home. Solo-aid climbing, I felt completely in control: the anchor, the belay, every placement, every knot, carabiner, bounce-test, weight shift, everything was up to me. Any failure was my fault, and I felt safety in the total independence of the situation. On the road, however, I start feeling nervous because I’m no longer in control. Cars I don’t control are everywhere, and any could swerve towards me at any moment. And suddenly, solo aid feels a whole lot safer than driving.
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core
Oct 11, 2006, 3:48 PM
Post #2 of 3
(1008 views)
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Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 1102
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haha! Nice story Tim.
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cracklover
Oct 23, 2006, 8:31 PM
Post #3 of 3
(1008 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Nice TR! What was the climb?
GO
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