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themadmilkman
Jan 25, 2007, 2:23 PM
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Posting out of curiosity more than anything.
When preparing for a gym climbing session, how do you warm up? I want to compare what I do to what others do.
I USED to warmup by climbing by climbing 2 or 3 very easy routes with some rest in between then moving in difficulty until I was ready to start working on more difficult problems. I've found that for me, though, this was fairly ineffective and was causing me to burn out prematurely.
NOW I get to the gym about 45 minutes before I want to start cilmbing, and warm up by bouldering on very small and/or slopey holds, doing only three or four moves and resting for a long time in between. I'll move slowly on those few moves, so that I'm hanging on each hold for a fairly considerably amount of time. Once it's time to start my actual workout, I'll send a route a few grades below my limit, and then move on pushing my limits.
I've found that warming up this way lets me climb near or at my limit for significantly more time than I can when following what most people would consider a traditional warmup.
I guess I'm just curious to see how this compares to what other people do. I'm not advocating my system as a replacement for what other people choose to do, just putting what works for me out there to see what people think of it.
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viciado
Jan 25, 2007, 2:36 PM
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If you have the extra 45 minutes, why not do some cardio? I often cycle to and from my gym. It takes about 20 minutes at roughly 70% heart rate. I occassionally take a longer route and do some intervals. Its also a great cool down on the way home and I can be environmentally friendly. When I can't ride, I use the eliptic trainer or just jog.
The cardio gets things moving and then I just cruise a few soft moves to make sure fingers and arms are warm enough befor starting to crank.
As you say, this is what seems to work for me.
(This post was edited by viciado on Jan 25, 2007, 2:56 PM)
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mr8615
Jan 25, 2007, 2:49 PM
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I feel like starting on small holds is a bad idea, gotta warm up those tendons! I usually do some long traversing on big holds until I feel the warm up pump coming on. I rest for a long time and stretch my whole body, do another traverse on gradually smaller, but still sloping holds, rest some more, then get started on problems at my limit. The gym where I climb only has bouldering, but if I were climbing routes, I think my warmup would be the same.
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microbarn
Jan 25, 2007, 2:52 PM
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viciado wrote: When I can't ride, I use the el liptic al trainer or just log.
How does one 'log' exactly? Is this something that should be done in a room with no one else? Do magazines or movies help?
I up and down climb a bunch of really easy routes. I concentrate on stretching for holds and hanging off of them for the stretch. I make sure I feel it through my entire arm and back.
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viciado
Jan 25, 2007, 2:57 PM
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log, jog... dextral deslexia. Oops
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overlord
Jan 25, 2007, 3:36 PM
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i start with some easy routes, then move on to some easy boulders and then progress to the hard stuff. it usually takes me about 30min until i feel warmed up and i start with serious training.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jan 25, 2007, 4:18 PM
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90% of the time I warm up by doing 45-min ARC traversing. I incorporate stretching into it.
5% of the time I warm up by doing 2 or 3 10 min-each roped ARC up-and-down climbing. ( the belayer starts complaining otherwise, and also, if I do 20-30 min at once, and then reciprocate by belaying for 20-30 min, I'll "cool down" and that warm-up won't be so effective)
the other 5% of the time I warm up by doing 1 hr yoga before climbing, and then climbing 1-2 easy climbs.
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ebonezercabbage
Jan 25, 2007, 5:05 PM
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Usually i start of with about a min of very light stretching. Then i do the full circle traverse my gym has set up. Its starts off easy and works to stretch a lot of different angles. Then i'll stretch for about 5 min, then do the easy boulder route ( lots of really big jugs ), and finish by letting myself fall flat on the mat. I lay there for about a min, get up, and i'm fired up to go.
Total time about 15 min
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themadmilkman
Jan 25, 2007, 5:08 PM
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mr8615 wrote: I feel like starting on small holds is a bad idea, gotta warm up those tendons! I usually do some long traversing on big holds until I feel the warm up pump coming on. I rest for a long time and stretch my whole body, do another traverse on gradually smaller, but still sloping holds, rest some more, then get started on problems at my limit. The gym where I climb only has bouldering, but if I were climbing routes, I think my warmup would be the same.
I always thought that starting on small holds was a bad idea as well, but I've had fewer finger injuries since I started doing this. Like I said, though, this is what works for me, based on my style of climbing and my particular goals. There's no "one size fits all" workout routine, but I like to hear what other people do so I can look for ideas that I might use to modify my own workout routines.
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bluesmusic
Jan 26, 2007, 2:02 AM
Post #10 of 13
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Registered: Jun 29, 2004
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I have sex before I climb, that is a great warm-up.
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dr_feelgood
Jan 26, 2007, 4:19 AM
Post #11 of 13
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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maybe stretch... 3 laps on something easy... 5.6-5.8 5ish... climb a few 5.8s and the hit the stuff i want to send that day... warmdown on a few easy climbs
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miademus
Jan 26, 2007, 9:03 AM
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Registered: Nov 8, 2005
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i jog about 5-10 min do 20 min full streching..
then i follow the self coached climber...
-arcs
-initial movements
-easy routes
-before i want to do some hard boulders i do 15 min simple boulders
....it's funny some say do 5.8 as well as in the book...i mean that doesn't effect at all...though we don't have such routes here...
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miademus
Jan 26, 2007, 9:07 AM
Post #13 of 13
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Registered: Nov 8, 2005
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aww tried that once or twice for a few weeks...but overtime it's really bad...after it i found it hard to recruit my power....but i recommend it after the workout, so your lactic acid flows better.(you need to have an orgasm)
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