|
dockzilla
Mar 9, 2007, 3:55 AM
Post #1 of 10
(1977 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2005
Posts: 24
|
Hey,
I have thought this scenario over and over in my head and still can not figure out how to follow a pendulum. Could anybody tell me either how to follow a pendulum or direct me to a good source for an answer. Thanks!
dockzilla
|
|
|
|
|
climbinginchico
Mar 9, 2007, 4:00 AM
Post #2 of 10
(1971 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
|
You should buy Freedom of the Hills. I bet you'd learn a lot of useful things from that book.
|
|
|
|
|
west_coast_climber
Mar 9, 2007, 4:18 AM
Post #3 of 10
(1958 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2004
Posts: 41
|
Jared Ogden's book "Big wall climbing" has a couple ways to get through a pendulum, depending on it's length. worth reading, as it would take too long to describe here....
|
|
|
|
|
kristoffer
Mar 9, 2007, 4:24 AM
Post #4 of 10
(1952 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2005
Posts: 55
|
The second or you if you are soloing would Duecy off of the penji point... that’s why you usually find tat or an old biner left at the penji.
If you have no clue what I mean by Duecy your going to be kind of out of luck, its supper hard to explain via text and I am not sure if it is in any of the big wall books because I have never read any of them.
But heres a shot at explaining the Duecy (invented by John Middendorf aka The Duecy).
Take a bight of rope beneath your ascenders and feed this bight through the biner/tat of the prnji point, pull this bight back to your harness where you will clip it into a free biner that is attached to your harness and now all you have to do is lower your self out with the “free” end of the rope… when completely lowered out just unclip this bight from you harness and pull the doubled over rope(bight) through the penji peace and there you go…
You can also Duecy off of hooks, I do this a lot when I am cleaning a traversing pitch so I don’t have to leave any gear.
I know that was probably hard if not impossible to fallow, but I hope it helped in some way.
|
|
|
|
|
kane_schutzman
Mar 9, 2007, 4:51 AM
Post #5 of 10
(1934 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2005
Posts: 896
|
Better yet,
Get a video,
I forget the name of it, but go look at my last post in the Aid forum. Show's you just how to do it.
|
|
|
|
|
wanderlustmd
Mar 9, 2007, 12:49 PM
Post #6 of 10
(1905 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 24, 2006
Posts: 8150
|
kristoffer wrote: The second or you if you are soloing would Duecy off of the penji point... that’s why you usually find tat or an old biner left at the penji. If you have no clue what I mean by Duecy your going to be kind of out of luck, its supper hard to explain via text and I am not sure if it is in any of the big wall books because I have never read any of them. But heres a shot at explaining the Duecy (invented by John Middendorf aka The Duecy). Take a bight of rope beneath your ascenders and feed this bight through the biner/tat of the prnji point, pull this bight back to your harness where you will clip it into a free biner that is attached to your harness and now all you have to do is lower your self out with the “free” end of the rope… when completely lowered out just unclip this bight from you harness and pull the doubled over rope(bight) through the penji peace and there you go… You can also Duecy off of hooks, I do this a lot when I am cleaning a traversing pitch so I don’t have to leave any gear. I know that was probably hard if not impossible to fallow, but I hope it helped in some way.
I know it sorta goes without saying, but you left out the part about unclipping from the piece.
1.) Jug up to the piece, pass the bight throught and clip to harness as described.
2.) Make sure the bight is pulled tight enough so your weight is hanging off it, freeing the piece to be cleaned of tension. By cleaned, I mean unclipping the rope where it was clipped in when the leader penjied.
3.) Once the pieni point itself is unclipped, grasp the bight, unclip and lowerout.
To my knowledge, (wall newbie) this will only work if you have enough rope available in relation to the penji; say the leader got 10 feet above the belay, then lowered down 30 to penji to a new crack. In this case, you'd have to rap off another rope or use a different method, since enough rope will not be available to use the deucy.
Of just unclip and enjoy the ride 
Like everyone said, get a picture of the process, it makes more sense.
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Mar 9, 2007, 12:56 PM
Post #7 of 10
(1895 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
i never heard it called a duecy before, but thats as good a name as any i suppose.
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Mar 10, 2007, 6:13 AM
Post #8 of 10
(1831 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
Follow Tobin Sorensen's lead... just unclip the piece and jump!   ...'Least, that's the story I read.
One piece of advice I might offer however, applies only to penji's when you do not have enough rope in the system to complete the lowerout to plumb-line:
ensure your swing-line is free of obstacles, especially if it's pitch-black middle-of-night!
|
|
|
|
|
climbhigher
Mar 14, 2007, 8:07 PM
Post #10 of 10
(1766 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 6, 2002
Posts: 224
|
put a bite of rope from you through the lower out point. clip bite of rope into biner attached to your harness....lower out...... retrieve bite of rope. It will make sense when u do it. Your making a pully system and lowering yourself out. No need for a atc or anyother device.
|
|
|
|
|
|
