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napoleon_in_rags
May 17, 2007, 11:28 AM
Post #1 of 11
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Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 586
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I climbed Madame G this last week end and discovered the Black Alien on the first (technically second) pitch is loos in the crack. Of course, no one should have been clipping it to begin with but now you REALLY shouldn't clip it.
The race is on for whomever can claim it as historical Booty.
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lucander
May 18, 2007, 8:57 PM
Post #2 of 11
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Registered: Jul 2, 2003
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I've always looked forward to that being my first piece when stringing pitches together. It's a sad day on the ridge.
DL
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joeforte
Jun 4, 2007, 2:23 AM
Post #3 of 11
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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whats wrong with clipping fixed pro?
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happiegrrrl
Jun 4, 2007, 3:07 AM
Post #4 of 11
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660
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It's not the clipping of fixed gear you have to worry about, it's falling on it that's the problem.....
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jakedatc
Jun 4, 2007, 3:50 AM
Post #5 of 11
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
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you mean there might be something wrong with those corroded pink tricams with the white slings? 
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curt
Jun 4, 2007, 6:24 AM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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What sort of retard would place a black Alien on Madam G's in the first place?
Curt
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climbingbetty22
Jun 4, 2007, 2:49 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Dec 29, 2002
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Someone too cavalier about the grade of the climb...
Happens in the Gunks ALL the time.
I do get a kick out of the number of welded-in-place pink tricams I've come across at the Gunks. I wonder if anyone has done an actual count....
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happiegrrrl
Jun 4, 2007, 4:36 PM
Post #8 of 11
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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I haven't been on that climb but once, and it was before I bega leading, so I wasn't even aware of placements.... Don't remember any fixed gear, probably because the leader didn't clip the one(the infamoud drkodos led me on that one, and he taught me how to best succeed with roofs)....
....but I would guess the sort of person who would place a black alien on the climb would be the sort who has no real use for a black alien in the first place.
So, the great Goddess of Climbing, who is a kind and caring goddess, and only wanted to help him(yes, it must have been a guy) lighten his rack so he might improve his ability to send, whispered..."ooh babeee...put it in here...."
Unfortunately, the n00b got scared. because after all...it can be scary when the ck starts talking to you. The n00b, being unable to calmly rationalize the situation, being a n00b, got sketched. And when sketched, what does a n00b do? We look right dead center ahead of us and feel we MUST protect. NOW.
And thus it was, that fateful day. Not looking one step to the left, nor the right, nor up - and certainly not down - the n00b saw the little slot....He whipped out his #2 cam...
"Shit! Too big!" he whimpered. Then pulled out the next smaller size. "Fuuuuuckkkkk!" he railed, as his legs began to vibrate.
Down and down in size he went, losing steam along the way like a tea kettle burning dry, until there was but one little camming unit left - the infamous Mr. Black.
Fingers shaking, barely able to unrack, he pulled the trigger and - WHAM! He slammed that sucker in.
And promptly fell off the route.
"mmmm", moaned the Goddess. "Hope it was as good for you as it was for me....."
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divad
Jun 4, 2007, 9:54 PM
Post #9 of 11
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Registered: Sep 15, 2006
Posts: 17
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Geez Terrie, sounds like once was enough.
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curt
Jun 5, 2007, 12:00 AM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
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happiegrrrl wrote: ...I would guess the sort of person who would place a black alien on the climb would be the sort who has no real use for a black alien in the first place. So, the great Goddess of Climbing, who is a kind and caring goddess, and only wanted to help him(yes, it must have been a guy) lighten his rack so he might improve his ability to send, whispered..."ooh babeee...put it in here...." Unfortunately, the n00b got scared. because after all...it can be scary when the ck starts talking to you. The n00b, being unable to calmly rationalize the situation, being a n00b, got sketched. And when sketched, what does a n00b do? We look right dead center ahead of us and feel we MUST protect. NOW. And thus it was, that fateful day. Not looking one step to the left, nor the right, nor up - and certainly not down - the n00b saw the little slot....He whipped out his #2 cam... "Shit! Too big!" he whimpered. Then pulled out the next smaller size. "Fuuuuuckkkkk!" he railed, as his legs began to vibrate. Down and down in size he went, losing steam along the way like a tea kettle burning dry, until there was but one little camming unit left - the infamous Mr. Black. Fingers shaking, barely able to unrack, he pulled the trigger and - WHAM! He slammed that sucker in. And promptly fell off the route. "mmmm", moaned the Goddess. "Hope it was as good for you as it was for me....."
I really wasn't expecting that sort of detailed reply to my question--but, I suppose that does sound about right.
Curt
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lucander
Jun 5, 2007, 12:36 AM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Jul 2, 2003
Posts: 274
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happiegrrrl wrote: And when sketched, what does a n00b do? We look right dead center ahead of us and feel we MUST protect. NOW.
I've been doing this for five years, you should have seen the nest I made on Resistance last week. Or Anguish two weeks ago. Or Gory Thum a month ago. Or Bonnies...every time I do it.
DL
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