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the_elk
Oct 11, 2002, 4:18 AM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2002
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Seems like a relatively common obstacle for most climbers...
But, how do you folks out there deal with your head when it convinces you that you can't climb at the level you know you can?
Here's my example: I am totally physically able to pull moves on a grade 22-23 (5.11b) roof, but when I head out to the rock, and jump on lead at that grade, my head is more pumped out than my arms, and when it comes to pulling out of the roof and knowing that my legs are gonna cut free I flip out. WHY!?
Any one out there that has worked through this that can give me a tip or two?
Sitting here now I know what I have to do on a certain climb, but when I'm out at the rock my logic turns to fear. HELP!
P.S. I generally don't have the same problem on face climbs at the same grade. It's roof stuff!
ELK
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maiorlive
Oct 11, 2002, 5:47 AM
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Registered: Aug 20, 2002
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Don't think. Really. It's not easy, but it works. Your body will do what it needs to when your mind steps out of the way.
I've been practicing meditation for a couple years now and I've noticed that I have a huge advantage over my partners when it comes to headspace and fear issues. There are a couple of tricks you can try to get better at not thinking. PM me if you're interested.
It's important to avoid confusing "not thinking" with "not paying attention." The latter will get you in trouble.
Good luck, man.
W
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nailzz
Oct 11, 2002, 6:05 AM
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Good advice from Maior. I deal with head issues a lot as well. I'm sure many climbers do.
For me, what has helped tons is just sucking up and doing it. When I'm scared $|-|i7l3$$ obviously I don't climb nearly as well as I should. But, what's important at that point is to face up and do it anyways. There's been tons of times where I'm in the middle of a pitch and start getting sketched and second guessing my ability to complete the climb. That is when it it's absolutely crucial to not back off and to finish it out. The exhileration of making it through will make your confidence soar. And the more that happens, the more you'll be able to face similar challenges and overcome them way more easily in the future.
It builds on itself. The more you challenge yourself and succeed the more you'll gain confidence and actually find yourself desiring the challenge of harder leads.
Maybe everything I've said is apparent, but that's been my experience.
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timpanogos
Oct 11, 2002, 6:35 AM
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Well, I’m certainly not in any position to give advice on the level of climbing that you are doing – but I can relate to what Tony has said. And I truly know the dumb head thing that also vexes me. Tony actually watched me do this same thing last weekend – I got clipped into a bolt protecting a run-out where I could not see the next potential pro. I was pushing myself to onsite a higher level than I have grown comfortable with – the head kicks in – and I blow the onsite by down climbing a bit and hanging out on the clip to see if I can see the next pro (guide book said a pin was up there somewhere, but still could not see it) complaining to Tony, that I need to come down and let the youngins lead it. Then I think it through, I’m feeling good, if you pitch, your going get skinned, but not seriously hurt – and then – in answer to your question – the critical point comes – COMMIT to it, and move. Size it up, if the risk is acceptable, commitment is the key for me. I flowed up the run-out, saw the pin, climbed the rest of the pitch – and felt wonderful about it (other than kicking myself for blowing the onsite because of fear).
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arostecrux
Oct 11, 2002, 7:04 PM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
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head games are probably the biggest part of climbing. Wolfgang Gullich said that the strongest muscle in climbing is the brain. Obviously thats true! You could take a few random people off the street, each of whom are fit and strong, and put them on the rock. THey will suck because their brain, not their body, is not conditioned for climbing.
As far as the fear goes, everybody experiences it. If a route presented no challenges and no fear then completing it would leave me feely not so excited. Only because its hard and scary do I enjoy it.
Look into some Yoga to help your focus and concentration. Have you ever seen "Enter the Dragon"? Bruce Lee says a martial artist (or in this case a climber) should be not thinking but not dreaming, ready for whatever may come.
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bluesky
Oct 11, 2002, 7:31 PM
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Registered: Aug 14, 2002
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YES! That is the trick - not thinking - yet still focused. It's a game - to let go of the expectations of success or failure.
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hroldan
Oct 11, 2002, 8:26 PM
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Registered: Mar 7, 2002
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bluesky is right, a few times I have experimented climbing just like that and it works, on the other hand, a friend of mine, also a climber show me another way and for me it worked better but was slower.
this is the trick: sit on the floor and breath, look at the route, continue breathing, feel the holds/rock on your hands, climb mentally and so on, then close your eyes and do it all over again with eyes closed. Then open your eyes (almost everytime a whisper comes out) and then climb, just like that.
The first time I tried, i was impressed and so the guys of the gym. I did some great job on the rook. The bad thing is that takes too much time (for me at least)
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