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motocrosser21
Jan 13, 2008, 6:56 PM
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I'm using a canon 400d and shooting indoor comps. for usac etc.. I need fast shutter speeds but i cant get enough light doing so. I have to shoot above 1/250 sec and without a flash. How can i avoid blurred images in bad lighting?
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dobson
Jan 13, 2008, 8:33 PM
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You probably know this, but just increase your aperture. Fast primes are the way to go. There are many options in the cannon system. I personally use the 50mm 1.4 in such situations.
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motocrosser21
Jan 13, 2008, 11:19 PM
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My lens is a f4. So should i get a new lense. Shooting at 200-300mm
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dobson
Jan 13, 2008, 11:34 PM
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If you can't get shutter speeds you need at ISO 1600 and F4, you may have to look at getting a new lens.
I'm assuming that you're using the 70-200 F4L. In the longer focal lengths, fast lenses are big and expensive. Could you get by with a shorter focal length? Lenses in the 85 - 125 mm range are more manageable.
Your choices in the long end are limited. The most common solution would be the 70-200 F2.8L IS. Your other options are primes. There's the now discontinued 200mm f1.8 that was designed specifically for indoor sports. The 200mm f2 and the 300mm f2.8 are also options. There may be other third party lenses available, too.
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wlderdude
Feb 7, 2008, 4:00 AM
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The least expensive and most effective way to improve your images at those focal lengths is to use a tripod or monopod.
Getting a faster lens will help. I assume you are alredy using the highest ISO setting you can. If not, bump it up.
Also realize that the more zoomed in you are, the steadier you must hold the camera. 300mm is not hand holdable without a lot of light.
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wes_allen
Feb 7, 2008, 4:48 AM
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No. Tripod and monopods, like IS/VR/OS don't help with motion blur. You need higher SS, so that means faster glass and/or higher ISO.
And, handholding 300mm is not that hard, even without IS. With IS, I can handhold down to 1/25 or so.
I think your camera can do iso 800 with OK IQ, but pushing it past that might be an issue.
Maybe rent a lens from http://www.lensrentals.com ? You can get a 135 f2L for 50$ for three days including shipping. If you were getting 1/250 at f4 ISO 1600, going to f2 would give you 1/1000 at ISO 1600, or 1/500 at ISO 800. I rented an 85 1.8 for a gymnastics meet, and it was nice as well.
wlderdude wrote: The least expensive and most effective way to improve your images at those focal lengths is to use a tripod or monopod. Getting a faster lens will help. I assume you are alredy using the highest ISO setting you can. If not, bump it up. Also realize that the more zoomed in you are, the steadier you must hold the camera. 300mm is not hand holdable without a lot of light. |
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jermanimal
Feb 7, 2008, 5:06 AM
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The problem is you need a lens fast enough to get action in low light, the impossible.
A very standard set up is the previously mentioned 70-200 f2.8 L IS. You could save a little and not get the IS feature. If you can use a mono or tri pod the IS is no really needed, if you are moving around then the IS for hand held is nice.
The primes really would be the way to go. If you could get in the 200 f1.8 range you would be kicking.
I have the same body, I don't get very good 1600 iso...800 iso is only reasonable speed vs noise.
The rental would be a great option...unless you are really jumping into the photo biz, you should try some different options, we are talking about some really expensive glass...that really should be on a 5d or maybe 40d.
There are some decent Sigma 70-200 f2.8...they even have a new 50-150 f2.8 which is more in the classic "portrait zoom" range for a 1.6x crop factor lens. I don't know your range, but to be able to follow a full route bottom to top, the zoom is really nice. I find a 50mm on the 1.6 crop factor bodies to be pretty tight for climbing shots up to 12ft up, I would rather have the 50-150mm, but thats me.
My favorite canon review site is...http://www.the-digital-picture.com/
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jermanimal
Feb 7, 2008, 5:07 AM
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Ohh, look at this one, expensive but could be up your ally...
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-120-300mm-F-2.8-EX-DG-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx
Should note I am more of a fan of the Tamron vs the Sigma lens. So if you went that route...this is a new one but promises to be a solid performer. Their 17-50 f2.8 is fantastic.
Tamron SP AF70-200mm F/2.8 Di LD (IF) Macro: http://www.tamron.com/...es/prod/70200_di.asp
(This post was edited by jermanimal on Feb 7, 2008, 5:20 AM)
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pico23
Feb 7, 2008, 6:24 AM
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jermanimal wrote: Ohh, look at this one, expensive but could be up your ally... http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-120-300mm-F-2.8-EX-DG-HSM-Lens-Review.aspx Should note I am more of a fan of the Tamron vs the Sigma lens. So if you went that route...this is a new one but promises to be a solid performer. Their 17-50 f2.8 is fantastic. Tamron SP AF70-200mm F/2.8 Di LD (IF) Macro: http://www.tamron.com/...es/prod/70200_di.asp
For some reason on CAnon cameras sigmas tend to do poorly, I imagine Canon somehow cripples them. I say this because when you ask about Sigma glass typically Canon shooters have the most problems.
I've got 3 sigma lenses, thrilled with 2 of 3 and the 3rd is what it is, the fastest 20mm prime ever made and at 1.8 it stinks, but then all superwides do. Had I realized this, I'd probably have liked it more from the start.
Anyway, back on topic, the 120-300 is universally regarded as a really nice lens buy all brand shooters, so it's definitely something to consider.
If you have the cash, with Canon coming out with the new 200mm 2.0 IS the older 1.8s might drop a few hundred in resale value. Just keep in mind that isn't a walking around lens and it will still run close to $2000.
If you can pick you spots though a monopod MIGHT help with the shots, obviously no dynos and stuff, but a nice static shot you will be able to shoot at 1/60th with a monopod that handheld you'd need 1/250th.
IIRC that tamron is supposed to be around $700 making it the cheapest of the 70/80-200 2.8s by $200+. Definitely something to consider if on a budget.
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