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dreday3000
Apr 11, 2008, 2:13 PM
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Thinking about doing my first SCS comp at my local gym. Not really in it for a big win but thought it might be fun.
So how does it work? Do you get a chance to warm up or are the first couple of routes on the easier side so you can get the blood pumping?
Do the open and advanced groups climb the same routes?
Thanks
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JackAttack
Apr 11, 2008, 2:40 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: Thinking about doing my first SCS comp at my local gym. Not really in it for a big win but thought it might be fun. So how does it work? Do you get a chance to warm up or are the first couple of routes on the easier side so you can get the blood pumping? Do the open and advanced groups climb the same routes? Thanks
Do you know if it is a red-point comp or an on-sight comp? They are two very different formats.
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dreday3000
Apr 11, 2008, 3:16 PM
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Its the comp run through the Sport Climbing Series of the USA climbing. I think its a red point style event.
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JackAttack
Apr 11, 2008, 6:16 PM
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ok im not sure if there would be any differences in rules in different regions, but i'll tell you how red point comps work in my region. when you register there you get a scorecard, which you cant lose! they usually wont replace it if you do. they will have a competitor's meeting where they will go over all the rules and then answer any questions.
Now the actual climbing starts. You get 4 hours to climb as many routes as you want, but keep in mind that only your top five climbs count. Routes are all assigned different point values, and they will rarely tell you the YDS rating (5.x). LOOK AT THE ROUTE ITSELF, NOT JUST THE POINTS! some easy routes will give you tons of points and some insanely hard routes give you next to nothing. You only get points for completeing a route. At the end of the 4 hours they will also do speed climbing, compete if you want to but it is also fun to watch. After that they will do awards and then you can go home.
Thats the basics for a redpoint comp, theres plenty of other rules but they should go over all those before the actual comp starts at the competitors meeting, and dont be afraid to ask questions. especially at your first comp. Ive been competeing for four years and I still ask plenty of questions. Also, look around on http://www.usaclimbing.org and see what you can find there that interests you. Hope all this helps 
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shockabuku
Apr 11, 2008, 6:41 PM
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The SCS rules are the same nationwide but they allow for the local event organizer (gym) to structure the event however they want.
In my experience most SCS comps are on-sight events, sometimes red-point events, where you might get to preview the routes but then go into iso while everyone else climbs and then get about 5 minutes on the route. You can warm up in iso and usually the routes increase in difficulty with usually around 5 routes total.
However, the SCS rules allow for bouldering comps to count for local SCS comps and really any variety of climbing that you can think of. So, the smart thing to do is to check with the comp organizer and see how they're going to run it.
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dreday3000
Apr 11, 2008, 6:42 PM
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Thanks for all the beta. Sounds fun!
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