|
|
|
|
ken21il
Jan 23, 2009, 8:41 PM
Post #1 of 22
(2685 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 27, 2006
Posts: 137
|
I have had two 10.ers, a beal and a edelweiss, which one i picked up on sale the other in a package deal... the time has come for new ropes and i have been looking over the specs in my mountain gear mag and looking on the web for good deals but i havent made up my mind. i can stay with the same ropes for under 150 each which i like. I have only climbed with a bluewater other then my ropes so i thought i would ask everyone what are the better ropes in the mid 9 to low 10. range..
I have also been slimming down the rack for a while now with lighter gear, getting rid of the ovals, replacing draws with wire gates, etc etc... At this time i have doubles in most of my cams, which came with wild wires. i wondered what everyone thought about replacing those and finishing out the rack with Trango Superflys or continuing with the wild wires which i already have.
I would save much more weight but would have to spend alot more money, i would be replacing the wild wires and purchasing new wires for the rest of the rack...
Any advice folks?
(This post was edited by ken21il on Jan 23, 2009, 8:50 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
shoo
Jan 23, 2009, 8:58 PM
Post #2 of 22
(2667 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
|
This is entirely too little information. What kind of climbing (sport, top-rope, multi-pitch trad, etc). Where? Also, mid 9s to low 10s is a big range. Care to narrow it down a bit? What ropes have you used that you liked or disliked?
|
|
|
|
|
ken21il
Jan 23, 2009, 9:09 PM
Post #3 of 22
(2657 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 27, 2006
Posts: 137
|
i climb alittle of everything, there is alot of sport in southern illinois but i dont pass on the trad, i find my self top toping alot with the newbies, i have always climbed with heavy 10.ers thought i would save the weight by dropping down to the 9.7 to the 10.2 range. Like i said above i have only climbed with my ropes and a bluewater 10.5 a few times.
I need a rope i can lead sport and trad on, i also need something for the top roping. That said i need to get a dry finish rope too but i figure i would decide on that when the decisions get a little more easier
|
|
|
|
|
kennoyce
Jan 23, 2009, 9:18 PM
Post #4 of 22
(2643 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1338
|
In reply to: i find my self top toping alot with the newbies
If you do quite a bit of top roping I would stick to a thicker rope so it'll last longer. On that note as well, the sterling marathon's last the longest, so you might want to go with one of them.
As for the biners, the ones you have aren't all that heavy. If you're really worried about weight you can go ahead and replace them, but you might just try leaving a cam or 2 behind and you'll loose even more weight.
|
|
|
|
|
shoo
Jan 23, 2009, 9:26 PM
Post #5 of 22
(2635 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
|
kennoyce wrote: If you do quite a bit of top roping I would stick to a thicker rope so it'll last longer. On that note as well, the sterling marathon's last the longest, so you might want to go with one of them.
Quoted for the truth. Top-roping destroys ropes pretty quickly. Sounds like the Sterling Marathon 10.1 is a winner.
|
|
|
|
|
ken21il
Jan 23, 2009, 9:27 PM
Post #6 of 22
(2634 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 27, 2006
Posts: 137
|
My thoughts were to get a new ally 10.3 for the TR but i might suggest they buy the rope and ill bring the gear and do the set up
I dont have a problem getting two ropes i just need advice on what ropes to look into. like i said the TR string isnt the problem its the 9.er for sport and trad. ive never used any petzl, mammut, sterling ropes, and of course these are the ropes i hear about most offen.
|
|
|
|
|
shoo
Jan 23, 2009, 9:45 PM
Post #7 of 22
(2613 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
|
Honestly, you won't find good advice here. Everyone has a pet rope or rope company. Some will spray specific brands and whatnot, but it doesn't necessarily mean anything. What really matters is your preference.
That being said, I would go for two ropes if I were you. Something thick and super durable for your TR line, and something thinner for everything else.
|
|
|
|
|
acorneau
Jan 23, 2009, 10:49 PM
Post #8 of 22
(2583 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889
|
[Post deleted for poor choice of words. Sorry folks. ]
(This post was edited by acorneau on Jan 24, 2009, 9:31 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
ken21il
Jan 23, 2009, 10:52 PM
Post #9 of 22
(2578 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 27, 2006
Posts: 137
|
duh
|
|
|
|
|
climbinginchico
Jan 24, 2009, 7:37 AM
Post #10 of 22
(2540 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 3032
|
I prefer both mammut and beal ropes. I've been told great things about the mammut 9.5. I have a beal 9.4 but I don't know if that's skinnier than you want to go. Their 9.7 handles really nice too.
You're probably ok sticking with the current biners you have. I would check out the mammut Moses if you want cheaper light biners.
|
|
|
|
|
suilenroc
Jan 24, 2009, 8:31 AM
Post #11 of 22
(2533 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2006
Posts: 581
|
Sterling 10.1 Marathon Pro.
U could go Euro, cheaper, or blaaa... I say go USA and quality.
|
|
|
|
|
Sin
Jan 25, 2009, 7:04 AM
Post #12 of 22
(2451 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 17, 2007
Posts: 236
|
I think it would be a lot cheaper to cut weight from a gut than a rack. You could shave off all you body hair, too.
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Jan 25, 2009, 7:17 AM
Post #13 of 22
(2444 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
Sterling 10.1 Marathon Pro or Biathlon Pro (bi-color).
I've had a couple of Beals and in my opinion the Sterling is much more durable, handles very well, feels comparable to a 9.7/9.8, and catches fine.
On the other hand I just got a Sterling Velocity and don't like it nearly as much.
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Jan 26, 2009, 6:14 PM
Post #14 of 22
(2370 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
Well I am not sure you want a rop this think 10.5 x 70M.
but the eddelwiese sharp is a great rope.
after two seasons it has show very little wear. It catches super soft as well
just somthing to keep in mine while you rope shop
http://www.edelweiss-ropes.com/anglais/sharp-us.html
(This post was edited by jeepnphreak on Jan 26, 2009, 6:14 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
suilenroc
Jan 26, 2009, 6:26 PM
Post #15 of 22
(2359 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2006
Posts: 581
|
shockabuku wrote: Sterling 10.1 Marathon Pro or Biathlon Pro (bi-color). I've had a couple of Beals and in my opinion the Sterling is much more durable, handles very well, feels comparable to a 9.7/9.8, and catches fine.
I totally agree with you on the 10.1 Marathon Pro! I own the 10.4 Biathlon, buddy owns the 10.1. Awesome rope. Very durable and a pleasure to handle. After two years of good use the rope still looks fairly new. I am a believer that Sterling does in fact make the sheath much more durable than others on the market. What that might do to the overal weight of the rope... I'm alright with.
I owned a Beal as well and always thought that it was too supple. Showed wear pretty quick...It feed really fast through Grigris. Trying to un-tie a knot that has been fallen on sometimes seemed to be the crux of the climb!
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Jan 26, 2009, 10:03 PM
Post #16 of 22
(2319 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
ken21il wrote: That said i need to get a dry finish rope too but i figure i would decide on that when the decisions get a little more easier
Curious as to why you might want a dry rope... they're great for ice and it's certainly not something you would want to top rope on. Are your home crags wet a lot?
I prefer Sterling and Mammut ropes. Mammut Infinity is a great rope and is 9.5mm As someone else said, the Sterling Marathon is a great rope too. I think it comes as 10.1 or 10.4mm.
|
|
|
|
|
ken21il
Jan 27, 2009, 12:24 AM
Post #17 of 22
(2270 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 27, 2006
Posts: 137
|
kachoong wrote: ken21il wrote: That said i need to get a dry finish rope too but i figure i would decide on that when the decisions get a little more easier Are your home crags wet a lot?
Yeah Southern illinois around this time off year is cold and wet,
|
|
|
|
|
USnavy
Jan 27, 2009, 1:38 PM
Post #18 of 22
(2234 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
|
ken21il wrote: My thoughts were to get a new ally 10.3 for the TR but i might suggest they buy the rope and ill bring the gear and do the set up I dont have a problem getting two ropes i just need advice on what ropes to look into. like i said the TR string isnt the problem its the 9.er for sport and trad. ive never used any petzl, mammut, sterling ropes, and of course these are the ropes i hear about most offen.
The Ally is a good choice for a TR rope. I use mine for sport leading and TR'ing as well as a little bit of trad on routes I don’t fall on. I choose it to replace my Top Gun II because it stretches a bit less which is nice when working on projects on TR as well as when I am leading with a very light belayer. However keep in mind if you do use it for leading the falls are a little harsh. Nothing overly bad and nothing that cant be smoothed out with a simple jump from the belayer, but it will not provide the soft catch your standard $220 high stretch, low impact trad rope will. Also keep in mind the Ally is a non-dry rope.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 27, 2009, 1:41 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
elcapinyoazz
Jan 27, 2009, 6:23 PM
Post #19 of 22
(2189 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2003
Posts: 93
|
ken21il wrote: i wondered what everyone thought about replacing those and finishing out the rack with Trango Superflys or continuing with the wild wires which i already have. Any advice folks?
Yeah, here's some advice: Figure out what YOU like to handle/clip and don't worry about the weight. The entire difference between having superflys on everything and having Wildwires for a double set is going to be about half a pound...which makes no difference in whether you send or fail, but spending an extra 10sec fumbling while trying to clip a keychain ornament sized biner from a bad lock or pumpy hold might make the difference.
If you were doing wall routes with 75 biners on the rack, or 20mile backcountry approaches with 6000ft of gain, shaving weight to a minimum would be reasonable...but for climbing in SoIll?
Also: "Wires", to most trad climbers, means nuts/stoppers.
Ropes: Whatever is cheap. I just got a 60m PMI 9.7 for $60. Just pick a general diameter range and see what's on sale. For TRing and minitraxioning I just use my last retired lead rope.
(This post was edited by elcapinyoazz on Jan 27, 2009, 6:28 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
jmvc
Jan 31, 2009, 10:47 AM
Post #20 of 22
(2087 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 647
|
suilenroc wrote: Sterling 10.1 Marathon Pro. U could go Euro, cheaper, or blaaa... I say go USA and quality.
While the US produces good climbing gear, don't suggest european climbing gear is cheap crap.
|
|
|
|
|
devkrev
Jan 31, 2009, 11:30 AM
Post #21 of 22
(2078 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
|
jmvc wrote: suilenroc wrote: Sterling 10.1 Marathon Pro. U could go Euro, cheaper, or blaaa... I say go USA and quality. While the US produces good climbing gear, don't suggest european climbing gear is cheap crap.
Why not? Its not like you Euros were doing much climbing before us 'Mericans! showed you how to git' 'er dun!
dev
|
|
|
|
|
jmvc
Jan 31, 2009, 1:10 PM
Post #22 of 22
(2066 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 647
|
devkrev wrote: jmvc wrote: suilenroc wrote: Sterling 10.1 Marathon Pro. U could go Euro, cheaper, or blaaa... I say go USA and quality. While the US produces good climbing gear, don't suggest european climbing gear is cheap crap. Why not? Its not like you Euros were doing much climbing before us 'Mericans! showed you how to git' 'er dun! dev
|
|
|
|
|
|
