Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Gunks Guidebook recommendations
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


jamincan


Feb 7, 2009, 2:36 AM
Post #1 of 17 (1619 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2007
Posts: 207

Gunks Guidebook recommendations
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There's a possibility I might make my way out to the Gunks later this spring and I was considering buying a guidebook to take a look at the offerings and have something to dream about this winter. What do you guys recommend?


skovar


Feb 7, 2009, 2:43 AM
Post #2 of 17 (1613 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2008
Posts: 23

Re: [jamincan] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dick Williams guide is the sh#t. Yo can order it from Rock and Snow


granite_grrl


Feb 7, 2009, 2:46 AM
Post #3 of 17 (1611 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [skovar] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Agreed on the Williams' guide book. One of the best guide books I've seen written for any area.


qtm


Feb 7, 2009, 2:48 AM
Post #4 of 17 (1611 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 8, 2004
Posts: 548

Re: [jamincan] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

The Grey Williams guide is the authoritative guide to the Gunks. It only covers the Trapps, but that's still a lot of high quality routes.

The Swain is much older, but includes the Nears and Millbrook. The route descriptions aren't as detailed as the Williams guide, but some people like it that way.

There's the "new" guide, which covers a very limited number of routes. There's been a lot of criticism about the book. Here's a thread at gunks.com about it.
http://www.gunks.com/...39839/page/0/fpart/1


granite_grrl


Feb 7, 2009, 2:59 AM
Post #5 of 17 (1604 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084

Re: [qtm] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

qtm wrote:
The Grey Williams guide is the authoritative guide to the Gunks. It only covers the Trapps, but that's still a lot of high quality routes.

The Swain is much older, but includes the Nears and Millbrook. The route descriptions aren't as detailed as the Williams guide, but some people like it that way.

There's the "new" guide, which covers a very limited number of routes. There's been a lot of criticism about the book. Here's a thread at gunks.com about it.
http://www.gunks.com/...39839/page/0/fpart/1
Williams is coming out with a new book for the Nears at some point (soon I think). Til then you can still buy his old book for the Nears at Rock and Snow (or you could a couple of years ago), which is also good and worth buying in addition to the grey dick.

I would recomend staying away from Swain's guide and FAR FAR away from the newest guide book out (unless you're looking for an interesting coffee table book). Both have their fair shair of mistakes in them.


mojomonkey


Feb 7, 2009, 3:12 AM
Post #6 of 17 (1596 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869

Re: [granite_grrl] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

granite_grrl wrote:
Williams is coming out with a new book for the Nears at some point (soon I think).

It is available, showed up at rock and snow last October.


skovar


Feb 7, 2009, 3:13 AM
Post #7 of 17 (1594 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2008
Posts: 23

Re: [jamincan] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

the new versions of the trapps (grey) and near trapps and millbrook (purple) are already out


qtm


Feb 7, 2009, 3:18 AM
Post #8 of 17 (1592 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 8, 2004
Posts: 548

Re: [granite_grrl] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The Nears guide came out last fall. Again, another excellent guide with a bunch of new routes. I'd recommend buying it, but only if you've already got the Trapps guide. If you're only buying one guide, then go with the Trapps guide, there's a lot more to climb there.


hansundfritz


Feb 7, 2009, 5:03 PM
Post #9 of 17 (1547 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 139

Re: [jamincan] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My partner owns a copy of Swain. I have all the various versions of the Williams guide. We use the Swain to determine which routes to climb, and then carry Williams along for route-finding. If I was to get only one, it would be the Williams.

Swain did a good job, IMO, of giving you a sense of the overall character of the route and whether it is worth doing in the first place. Williams is far better at keeping you on route -- ie. not wandering off your 6 onto a 9 and having an epic.


chossmonkey


Feb 7, 2009, 6:00 PM
Post #10 of 17 (1535 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [hansundfritz] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Another vote for the Grey Dick.


hansundfritz


Feb 7, 2009, 6:22 PM
Post #11 of 17 (1531 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 139

Re: [chossmonkey] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What can I say? It's been said on here a million times before: I love my Grey Dick. Although my first Dick was the original Red Dick -- now falling apart after being left too long on a sunny dashboard. Ouch. I also have the obsolete Sky Top Dick, which is kind of green and almost pristine.


divnamite


Feb 7, 2009, 8:53 PM
Post #12 of 17 (1499 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 20, 2007
Posts: 114

Re: [hansundfritz] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

hansundfritz wrote:
What can I say? It's been said on here a million times before: I love my Grey Dick. Although my first Dick was the original Red Dick -- now falling apart after being left too long on a sunny dashboard. Ouch. I also have the obsolete Sky Top Dick, which is kind of green and almost pristine.
Damn, that's a lot of dicks.


Partner happiegrrrl


Feb 8, 2009, 3:05 AM
Post #13 of 17 (1468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4660

Re: [divnamite] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Here's a Dick Story: A few years ago I was in the Nears climbing with a visitor from another part of the country. We happened along DrKodds and one of his friends and were chatting.

Dick was on his way out for the day and stopped by to say hello to me(I do trailwork with him). I didn't introduce him to the visitor(terrible, I know...). Kodos actually had worked at R&S at some point when Williams owned it, so ot was just the visitor who was left out.

So, Dick gets headed on his way and Kodos says to the visitor: "That's Dick Williams you know."

The guys jaw drops, and he says, in awe: "The BIG dick?"


tradrenn


Feb 8, 2009, 5:55 AM
Post #14 of 17 (1451 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: [granite_grrl] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

granite_grrl wrote:
qtm wrote:
The Grey Williams guide is the authoritative guide to the Gunks. It only covers the Trapps, but that's still a lot of high quality routes.

The Swain is much older, but includes the Nears and Millbrook. The route descriptions aren't as detailed as the Williams guide, but some people like it that way.

There's the "new" guide, which covers a very limited number of routes. There's been a lot of criticism about the book. Here's a thread at gunks.com about it.
http://www.gunks.com/...39839/page/0/fpart/1

Williams is coming out with a new book for the Nears at some point (soon I think). Til then you can still buy his old book for the Nears at Rock and Snow (or you could a couple of years ago), which is also good and worth buying in addition to the grey dick.

I would recommend staying away from Swain's guide and FAR FAR away from the newest guide book out (unless you're looking for an interesting coffee table book). Both have their fair share of mistakes in them.

Do you have a new Nears guide book ?
Is it really that fucked up ?
What's wrong in it ?

It's hard for me to believe that Williams would fuck it up.


adatesman


Feb 8, 2009, 5:59 AM
Post #15 of 17 (1447 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479

Post deleted by adatesman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

 


tradrenn


Feb 8, 2009, 6:04 AM
Post #16 of 17 (1442 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: [adatesman] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

adatesman wrote:
No no no... Not the new Dick Nears, the glossy photoshopped montage cover thing.

I remember reading about it on here. Thanks for clarifying it for me.


jamincan


Feb 8, 2009, 6:59 AM
Post #17 of 17 (1430 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 1, 2007
Posts: 207

Re: [skovar] Gunks Guidebook recommendations [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks for the feedback guys. I went to order the Trapps and New Trapps/Millbrook guides, but it seems Rock and Snow won't let people from outside of the US register an account at the moment. Hopefully I can sort it out.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook