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the_swooper
Feb 17, 2009, 4:46 AM
Post #1 of 17
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Sometimes the difference, between sending, or not it the belayer. Example: climber is struggling, about to give up...
belayer yells at the top of his/her lungs.. "SSSEEEENNNDDD THAT SHIITTT" FUCKING SSEEENNDDD!!!!! ARRGHHHH... WOOOO!!!! I did this once, and my buddy almost send as a result of it, said you was about to give up, thanked me gratefully. Met a guy once in yosemite, said his belayer's energy climbed his route for him, when he couldn't have done it alone. I'd love to have a belayer like that, what about you?
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N_Oo_B
Feb 17, 2009, 5:04 AM
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one of my fav. buddies ive climbed with was like that.
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MikeSaint
Feb 17, 2009, 5:11 AM
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the_swooper wrote: Sometimes the difference, between sending, or not it the belayer. Example: climber is struggling, about to give up... belayer yells at the top of his/her lungs.. "SSSEEEENNNDDD THAT SHIITTT" FUCKING SSEEENNDDD!!!!! ARRGHHHH... WOOOO!!!! I did this once, and my buddy almost send as a result of it, said you was about to give up, thanked me gratefully. Met a guy once in yosemite, said his belayer's energy climbed his route for him, when he couldn't have done it alone. I'd love to have a belayer like that, what about you?
There was once a dude on these forums by the name of Aceto. He was big into that. I dont know what it was, the energy, the Prana, the spiritual oversoul....
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currupt4130
Feb 17, 2009, 6:20 AM
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When I started climbing with my buddy Jim, I did this for him a lot. It really helped him push himself. He was really sketchy on lead and I just had to push it out of his head for him with things like "That next move is cake", "You just did the hardest move", "Get it Jim, I'll buy you a beer later!"
He admitted to me one day that I was the reason he got his lead head on straight. It was nice to know. He said always having me there to push him and not let him quit really helped him out.
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sungam
Feb 17, 2009, 7:16 AM
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I had a friend light up a J while I was gearing up halfway up Bouchaille Etive Mhor for my hardest trad mixed route at the time (a scottish 4- to me that was totally scary and badass). He was so relaxed and silently confident that I totally calmed down and sent happily and (mostly) comfortably. And one point, when a tool popped, he shouted up "come on, Magnus, you got this" but kinda mumbled it since the J was hanging out his lips. That gave me another boost of confidence (I had scared myself shitless by popping the tool) and I finished the pitch.
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hafilax
Feb 17, 2009, 5:58 PM
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I hate it when people yell meaningless crap at me when I'm climbing! I've had to tell more than one partner to be quiet. It's more likely to make me pop off than anything.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Feb 17, 2009, 6:15 PM
Post #7 of 17
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the_swooper wrote: Sometimes the difference, between sending, or not it the belayer.
Yes, sure. There are partners that really help you climb to your max, whether it is because you trust them at the "gut level", or because they help/motivate you in some way. (No, not necessarily yelling profanities at you., but to each his own)
It is only going to help to some extent, of course. No amount of belayer "energy" is going to help me send a climb 4 letter grades above my best redpoint. But to send that project that I worked out every move on? Sure, the right belayer might be just the thing making a difference between giving up and going all-out for a send.
It could be other things, too... My hardest climb was a send b/c I got really, really mad at the guy who said I should have onsighted it, LOL.
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jt512
Feb 17, 2009, 6:18 PM
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hafilax wrote: I hate it when people yell meaningless crap at me when I'm climbing! I've had to tell more than one partner to be quiet. It's more likely to make me pop off than anything.
I agree. It's distracting.
Jay
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azenari
Feb 17, 2009, 6:26 PM
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I prefer quieter belayers too. Loud belayers who yell stupid and useless info is distracting. It also draws unecessary attention. I always seem to get stuck with the worst loud mouths and have actually asked to lower and restart the climb with another quieter belayer. A word or 2 of enouragement is great for me tho.
I know there are people out there who like the loud encouraging comments and kudos to them for helping send.
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brotherbbock
Feb 17, 2009, 6:54 PM
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Yeah Sharma could never send 5.15b if it were not for his belayer. His climbing ability has to be attributed to the meta-physical energy transfer from the belayer, through some sort of ethereal plane directly into his tendons. Maybe this is all about the missing dark matter in our universe. Lets start a new thread.
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dingus
Feb 17, 2009, 6:58 PM
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The last time my belayer shouted at me she was all,
'Dingus, potato goes in FRONT!'
to which I indignatly shouted right back
'that AIN'T NO POTATO!'
DMT
ps. tarp yer load!
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hafilax
Feb 17, 2009, 7:03 PM
Post #12 of 17
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There is something to it. Just not for me.
I was climbing with a friend a while ago. He was looking sketched out, repeatedly looking at his last piece. It looked pretty good to me so I told him so. This gave him the confidence to stop thinking about his gear and concentrate on the climb. He got up it with no problems.
He told me at the top that he was just about to give up when I said that and it was that subtle shift of focus that enabled him to finish.
Some people like words of encouragement and yelling 'Allez! Allez!' at them helps their focus. I prefer calm and if you have to say something important don't yell it or my focus shatters like a shot pane of glass.
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drector
Feb 17, 2009, 7:06 PM
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The only motivation I ever got from my belayer was when he did the same route and sent it and then it was my turn. Boy is that pressure motivating!
Dave
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dingus
Feb 17, 2009, 7:09 PM
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drector wrote: The only motivation I ever got from my belayer was when he did the same route and sent it and then it was my turn. Boy is that pressure motivating! Dave
Angus to Wild Bill,
"Watch me here Bill." to which Bill lazily replied,
'That's OK Angus. I've already done this route!"
Hehe
True.
DMT
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granite_grrl
Feb 17, 2009, 7:35 PM
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It depends. When I'm pumped out of my mind, someone yelling orders at me might be enough to push me through at least a couple more moves. Kinda breaks through your thoughts of "shit, I'm pumped, oh my arms hurt" when you're sitting around getting even more pumped trying to decide if you really want to do that next move.
But if I'm just scared or struggling on a climb do NOT start shouts of encouragment. I need to concentrait, so please shut the fuck up.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 17, 2009, 8:13 PM
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drector wrote: The only motivation I ever got from my belayer was when he did the same route and sent it and then it was my turn. Boy is that pressure motivating! Dave
Totally agree. That's done the trick for me, too.
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boymeetsrock
Feb 17, 2009, 8:22 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
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Belayer's comments have save my as at least once.
The time I can think of I had just pulled a roof but couldn't manage to stand up (I was crouched at my new stance). I got scared, whimpered a bunch and was damn close to loosing it, when my belayer calmly told me I had it.
I sent. As mentioned before it was just the right distraction. Took my mind off of what was wrong and allowed me to refocus on success.
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