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steepcreeker
Mar 4, 2009, 4:55 PM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2008
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Hi fellas, my venerable old TNF down belay jacket has reached the end of its career. I am in the market as was looking at the MH sub zero hooded Jacket but heard it is unsightly short and the parka looks to be cumbersomely long.
Any reccomendations for a lower 48 condition down used for winter BP and Climbing. Mainly use on stuff like Rainier and Washington in NH.
I am 6'2" and about 220 lbs
Thanks for any info or input.
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sungam
Mar 4, 2009, 5:12 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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there can be only one... and it's the DAS parka.
Belay jacket = DAS parka or skimping out.
'nuff said.
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shockabuku
Mar 4, 2009, 7:03 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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I once wore a friends subzero jacket (sans hood). I really liked it. Seemingly tough construction, well insulated, fit well, no issues with length. I didn't climb/hike in it however, just wore it between climbs.
I'm 5'9", 185 lbs., long upper body, short legs.
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tallnik
Mar 4, 2009, 7:27 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2004
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Here's another vote for the DAS Parka.
I once read something along the lines of (Steve House I believe) "Down's for gangsters, boulders and sport climbers"
However, that being said, there's warmer belay jackets than the DAS Parka - BUT it's outperformed down on multi-day alpine trips for sure.
Nik
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rhythm164
Mar 4, 2009, 7:41 PM
Post #5 of 21
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Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964
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DAS Parka
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divnamite
Mar 4, 2009, 8:05 PM
Post #6 of 21
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Registered: Feb 20, 2007
Posts: 114
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DAS Parka.
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steepcreeker
Mar 4, 2009, 9:00 PM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2008
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Guess I am a gangster, I want down.
Old school I am, used down for 15 years. I just keep it dry. My Poly stuff is for kayaking.
Poly warmth to weight isn't good enough, plus compressablity. I wear xl to xxl. Thats a big coat to crush into a pack.
I also noticed DAS has been discontinued.
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sungam
Mar 4, 2009, 9:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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steepcreeker wrote: Guess I am a gangster, I want down. Old school I am, used down for 15 years. I just keep it dry. My Poly stuff is for kayaking. Poly warmth to weight isn't good enough, plus compressablity. I wear xl to xxl. Thats a big coat to crush into a pack. I also noticed DAS has been discontinued.
huh, weird.
Still, I wear an XL and it does take up a fair bit of room but I reckon it's worth it.
125 bucks on patagonia.com
http://www.patagonia.com/...26psPageNumber%3Dall
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Renty
Mar 4, 2009, 9:41 PM
Post #9 of 21
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Registered: Sep 3, 2008
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steepcreeker wrote: I also noticed DAS has been discontinued.
Most likely a seasonal item. Should reappear on the patagonia website this Fall which sucks as I'm in the market.
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reno
Mar 4, 2009, 10:27 PM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
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I bought an OR belay coat in Ouray. PrimaLoft insulation. Very warm, very light/compressible, and a nice price... about $120 at the festival.
Can't find it on OR's website, and don't recall the model name. I'll search some more, see if I can find it.
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steepcreeker
Mar 4, 2009, 10:28 PM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2008
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ebay baby, ebay
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steepcreeker
Mar 4, 2009, 10:30 PM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2008
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yeah or's website is weird like that. some stuff you have to use a search engine to find it in their website.
Don't make a lick of sense!
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zxcv
Mar 5, 2009, 5:43 AM
Post #13 of 21
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Registered: Feb 1, 2006
Posts: 96
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I guess you have looked at Feathered Friends offerings, though be sure to do so if you have not. The Volant or Frointpoint are great- both of which do show up on Ebay. There are lighter options (Rab Nuetrino Endurance, on sale at Prolite) but you sacrifice some warmth and durability (in the shell).
I love my DAS, but seriously wish the cuffs were adjustable as I have to turn the arms inside out in order to take it off.
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rschap
Mar 5, 2009, 2:40 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
Posts: 592
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The Loki Lodur has built in mittens and is a really good jacket (says a friend of mine). I have their Levity hard shell with the eVent, that thing kicks ass.
http://www.lokiusa.com/product_detail.php?ID=C111
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kachoong
Mar 5, 2009, 2:59 PM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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I have an old version of this bad boy made by Mont... it's extremely warm and maybe too warm for your needs. There's always the lighter, less bulky version... the Icicle.
I'm finding it hard to locate a retailer that has them though. 
Ive been a fan of Mont ever since I started climbing.... since they started their company out of the very same outdoor adventure clubroom that I attended in the early 90's.
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Tim03303
Mar 5, 2009, 4:24 PM
Post #16 of 21
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Registered: Mar 5, 2009
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I've got the MH Sub Zero Jacket w/Hood--big fan.
I'm 6'2/165lbs wear size Large. It fits well when thrown over my layers on belay. I read a lot of neg comments about it's short length too. Depends on what you're going to wear it for. The bottom hem hits me just right, just above my harness' tie in. Any longer and the jacket would get fouled/in the way.
It packs down really small--down go figure... I've taken it on all my winter trips in the WMNF. Rubbed it against lots of rock on gully climbs and have not detected any fabric abrasions. Got mine with one of the REI member 20% coups.
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fresh
Mar 5, 2009, 4:59 PM
Post #17 of 21
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Registered: Aug 7, 2007
Posts: 1199
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OR chaos works for me.
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tallnik
Mar 5, 2009, 5:21 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2004
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Not that primaloft is quite there yet. However, the new Climashield Neo synthetic insulation comes down close to competing with down for warmth to weight/compressibility.
A down jacket will last you longer however.
There's times where I can't keep my parka dry - and I need the synthetic. If down's going to work for ya - then keep on using it.
Nik
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ryanb
Mar 5, 2009, 5:23 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2004
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DAS will be back next fall and can still be found on clearance some places. I have the L and it compresses down to the size of a small loaf of bread.
Use this tool:
http://www.spadout.com/store.php?cat_view=1&cat_id=264&st_page=1
For top notch well thought out gear I would look at patagonia and maybe montbell and western mountaineering. Marmot and OR have some nice stuff too but not quite as nice...
FF does make bad ass stuff too though it is not sold through retailers as far as i know:
http://www.featheredfriends.com/
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sungam
Mar 5, 2009, 6:11 PM
Post #20 of 21
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
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Okay, I really don't think there's much discussion here. Patagonia has the DAS for 125 bucks, which is damn cheap, and if you really want down, their down jacket is on clearence as well.
I'd check out the web specials section of patagonia like... now.
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adamtd
Mar 7, 2009, 3:19 AM
Post #21 of 21
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 187
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I just bought a Sierra Designs Down Sweater (550 fill power) from Sierra Trading Post for $79 (I believe it's normally around $200). I'm really happy with it. It's warm, relatively lightweight at 2lbs, and stows into a compact bundle in it's own pocket. The only thing missing is a hood, but for the price I can't complain. It's at least worth checking out.
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