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airscape
Feb 18, 2011, 8:41 AM
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I just watched "The sharp end" DVD, and on it they showed a place in czech republic where people use knots tied in various diameters of cord and webbing instead of nuts and cams.
Local ethics at that place dictate that cams and nuts are not allowed as pro and neither is chalk.
All the climbs have really long run outs. <-- Really shit yourself run outs.
They also have a stick to push them into the cracks.
It seems these things actually work quite well.
Do any of you use knots as pro when doing trad??
Maybe as a last resort type of thing?
or knot?
Disclaimer: I didn't do a search, and I dougnut care if it has been asked before.
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sbaclimber
Feb 18, 2011, 10:04 AM
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airscape wrote: I just watched "The sharp end" DVD, and on it they showed a place in czech republic where people use knots tied in various diameters of cord and webbing instead of nuts and cams.
airscape wrote: Local ethics at that place dictate that cams and nuts are not allowed as pro and neither is chalk.
airscape wrote: All the climbs have really long run outs.
airscape wrote: They also have a stick to push them into the cracks.
airscape wrote: Do any of you use knots as pro when doing trad??
airscape wrote: Maybe as a last resort type of thing? 
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USnavy
Feb 18, 2011, 10:22 AM
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sbaclimber wrote: airscape wrote: I just watched "The sharp end" DVD, and on it they showed a place in czech republic where people use knots tied in various diameters of cord and webbing instead of nuts and cams. A good portion of that segment was also filmed in Germany. (e.g. the arete Alex Hannold climbs is Heiße Herzen on the tower Nonnengärtner, which is definitely this side of the border) airscape wrote: Local ethics at that place dictate that cams and nuts are not allowed as pro and neither is chalk. This is correct. airscape wrote: All the climbs have really long run outs. This is not true. If it was, I would not climb here at all! (I have a rather weak lead-head) airscape wrote: They also have a stick to push them into the cracks. Yes, called a "Spatel" airscape wrote: Do any of you use knots as pro when doing trad?? Seeing as I climb in the Elbsandsteingebirge/Sächsische Schweiz (the german side), yes. airscape wrote: Maybe as a last resort type of thing? Well, it is often either that or nothing....
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airscape
Feb 18, 2011, 10:27 AM
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This is cool!
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sbaclimber
Feb 18, 2011, 10:43 AM
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USnavy wrote: I once heard that pro was not used there mainly because the rock is too soft. Is this true, or is it not allowed due to ethics?
In other words, yes, it is very soft.
Edit: here is a pic I took of some very worn out foot holds, which are not uncommon to see on many routes...
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 18, 2011, 10:56 AM)
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airscape
Feb 18, 2011, 10:55 AM
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Do you do the towerjumping?
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tetons
Feb 18, 2011, 11:24 AM
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I've used knots for rap anchors quite often. Normally, if you can set a knot securely then the placement will probably take some kind of pro, so I haven't used knots in that sense very often --- maybe once or twice.
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johnwesely
Feb 18, 2011, 12:22 PM
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tetons wrote: I've used knots for rap anchors quite often. Normally, if you can set a knot securely then the placement will probably take some kind of pro, so I haven't used knots in that sense very often --- maybe once or twice.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on Feb 18, 2011, 12:23 PM)
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tetons
Feb 18, 2011, 12:35 PM
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Not clear enough, apparently. Another try: Yes i've used them for rap anchors often; no I haven't used them for pro (in a leading sense) because you can usually get a nut or some other gear in the same placement.
Better? Probably not....
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sungam
Feb 18, 2011, 12:35 PM
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I was climbing on Potash road and saw some dude who didn't bring any pro for a mixed pro route. He had recently climbed at the [wat] using knots and luckily he had some prussiks on him so he slapped those puppies in there and didn't fall.
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sungam
Feb 18, 2011, 12:45 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: sungam wrote: ....so he slapped those puppies in there and didn't fall.This is actually a pretty key technique when leading on knots. 
He was like "Shit, are there no more bolts?"
"Yeah man, you gotta use gear for the next 15 feet - you gunna bail? I could grab your draws on the way down if you want"
"Nah, I've got some prussiks - I'll protect it with knots and not fall off".
I laughed pretty hard.
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airscape
Feb 18, 2011, 12:49 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: sungam wrote: ....so he slapped those puppies in there and didn't fall.This is actually a pretty key technique when leading on knots.
I bet you think pretty twice before just going for something.
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sbaclimber
Feb 18, 2011, 12:59 PM
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airscape wrote: sbaclimber wrote: sungam wrote: ....so he slapped those puppies in there and didn't fall.This is actually a pretty key technique when leading on knots. I bet you think pretty twice before just going for something.  
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redonkulus
Feb 18, 2011, 1:25 PM
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That dude is a Man.
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airscape
Feb 18, 2011, 1:27 PM
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I bet this makes for a pretty light rack.
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sbaclimber
Feb 18, 2011, 1:29 PM
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airscape wrote: I bet this makes for a pretty light rack.
Though I do have one knot that weighs 3.5kg...alone.
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airscape
Feb 18, 2011, 1:31 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: airscape wrote: I bet this makes for a pretty light rack. Generally, yes. Though I do have one knot that weighs 3.5kg... alone.
That must me one hell of a monkey fist!!
Is it made out of anchor rope?
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sbaclimber
Feb 18, 2011, 1:36 PM
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airscape wrote: sbaclimber wrote: airscape wrote: I bet this makes for a pretty light rack. Generally, yes. Though I do have one knot that weighs 3.5kg... alone. That must me one hell of a monkey fist!! Is it made out of anchor rope?
Yes, it is a mooring line (for very big yachts).
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sp115
Feb 18, 2011, 1:41 PM
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redonkulus wrote: That dude is a Man.
Especially if he tied them one-handed while on the route. I'd buy that Man a beer.
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sp115
Feb 18, 2011, 1:43 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: airscape wrote: sbaclimber wrote: airscape wrote: I bet this makes for a pretty light rack. Generally, yes. Though I do have one knot that weighs 3.5kg... alone. That must me one hell of a monkey fist!! Is it made out of anchor rope? It isn't a monkey fist (my largest of those @11cm dia. weighs just short of 600g.) Yes, it is a mooring line (for very big yachts). [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/428101-work-Gabe-Daniel-Papast-Suedverschneidung-2.JPG[/image]
That rack is awesome.*
* just sayin'
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airscape
Feb 18, 2011, 1:44 PM
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sp115 wrote: redonkulus wrote: That dude is a Man. Especially if he tied them one-handed while on the route. I'd buy that Man a beer.
Plus bottle of whiskey if it's a monkey fist.
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airscape
Feb 18, 2011, 1:46 PM
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sbaclimber wrote: airscape wrote: sbaclimber wrote: airscape wrote: I bet this makes for a pretty light rack. Generally, yes. Though I do have one knot that weighs 3.5kg... alone. That must me one hell of a monkey fist!! Is it made out of anchor rope? It isn't a monkey fist (my largest of those @11cm dia. weighs just short of 600g.) Yes, it is a mooring line (for very big yachts). [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/428101-work-Gabe-Daniel-Papast-Suedverschneidung-2.JPG[/image]
You have the cheapest, yet the coolest rack I've seen.
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julio412
Feb 18, 2011, 1:51 PM
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Before your time, " Hot Henry" Barber talked and climbed a lot in what use to be East Germany, where they used knots because of the Sandstone.
Also Forrest Mountaineering made what they called a "Roll your own" nut which consisted of webbing and a metal buckle.
Jeff Lowe's video " Clean Climbing"also talks about the effects of cams ,nuts, etc. on Sandstone rock.
One of the most important things a climber can do, in regards to his/her climbing is travel outside of their country/ region.
Example: I'm finally, finally getting comfortable with a v- thread.
Mario
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