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how to set pros
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spydey


Feb 18, 2003, 4:10 PM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2003
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how to set pros
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Hi i am a sport climber and want to get into trad. i was wondeering if you could teach yourself to trad climb. is it fairly straitforward or is nice and difficalt.

thanks

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micronut


Feb 18, 2003, 4:33 PM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2002
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It's both straightforward and subtle. Find a master to show you the ways, and then you can use your master's rack, and learn about gear before you run out and drop serious $$ on gear that you know little about.

Check "climbing anchors" by John Long.


brad


Feb 18, 2003, 4:53 PM
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I'll second the recommendation for "Climbing Anchors", and I'll add one for taking a class.

I took a 4 day trad leading class from Vertical Adventures in Joshua Tree last fall. The class was primarily on gear placement and anchors. They only let us "lead" while we were toproped, but on each lead the instructor was jumaring a fixed line, peering over our shoulders, critiquing each gear placement as we made it. Then, after each lead, we cleaned our own gear as we lowered off, so we could see for ourselves which cams walked, which nuts moved, etc. The instant feedback/correction on each placement was invaluable. The student/instructor ratio was 4:1, which works out very nicely (set two topropes up with a fixed line in between, and the instructor bounces between the two leaders as they climb). It was about $350 for 4 days, which is pretty inexpensive when you consider guide rates. See http://www.verticaladventures.com if you're interested.


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