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beyond_gravity
May 17, 2003, 4:18 PM
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I have an oppertunity to by a Charlet Pulser and the Metolius F18 (or somthing like that) for quite cheap.
What do you think about getting mis matched tools? I'm not sure about the metolius tool because I haven't seen picks for them around here.
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micahmcguire
May 17, 2003, 6:28 PM
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no harm in it, unless its noticably throwing you off somehow. I find that certain kinds of tools work great on one kind of ice, or even one spot on the ice, better than another tool. When I climb with tools that are rather noticably different from one another, I notice that each of my arms has its own unique advantage based on the difference between the two tools. Sometimes I like ice climbing with a tool and a mountain axe because of the reach and "stick" of the axe (though they are a pain to pry out of the ice). anyways, no I have not had a problem climbing with "bastard" sets of tools. I often find it nice.
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apoorva
May 19, 2003, 7:30 AM
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hehe, good question and one i want the answer to myself. im still working on buying my tools, and recently found a trango captain hook on sale which i promptly picked up. i couldnt afford it, but decided not to buy any textbooks for the semester so that i could. good choice eh? anyway, its a clearance shaft so i cant use it for, say alpine climbs, or any mountaineering use, so i want to pair it with a straight shaft tool. one bent/clearance and one straight, is that do-able?
i have climbed with one piolet and one ice hammer, i believe that was common in the old days. what gets done on now on hard mountains? one set of technical tools AND a piolet? or like what i think, one smaller technical tool and one longer straight shaft technical tool...?
sorry for hijacking your thread somewhat... :)
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pico23
May 19, 2003, 9:05 PM
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I met a guy in the Daks a few years ago using a bent shaft Trango and a straight shaft. I don't remember the story behind it but I do remember him saying that having two differen't shafts worked well for him. I've kind of debated it myself as you can from time to time find an orphan tool for 50+% off retail. The thing that concerns me (for my purposes) is finding two tools with a similar weight and more specifically head weight. I don't think a DMM Fly and a Omega Venom would be a good match based on the difference in weight and swing force needed for each. I think it would be awkward to have to develope two different swings for similar placements. Just something to consider.
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hugepedro
May 19, 2003, 10:15 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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This is exactly what I do - for versatility sake. I have a Charlet Moser Pulsar straight shaft with hammer, and Charlet Moser Quasar bent shaft with adze. Both 50cm. I've noticed no issues - that's leading up to WI5.
When I'm on a mountaineering route that has steep/technical sections I carry the straight shaft tool in addition to a 70cm Grivel Jorasses ax that has a technical, drooped reverse curve pick.
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theooze
May 20, 2003, 12:09 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2003
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My first tools I was on a budget and I picked up a killer deal on one good tool. Shopped around and bought another different brand.
I did OK. The tools were very different, had different strengths.
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rockprodigy
May 20, 2003, 2:37 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
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I climbed for several seasons on different tools. Starting with an REI mountain Axe, I got a BD Carbon Fiber Black Prophet straight shaft, and climbed with that for one season (that sucked!).
The next year I got a Cobra, so I put the cobra in my left hand and Black Prophet in my right. I used this setup on several alpine climbs as well.
Eventually I got another cobra, and now I'm lovin' it. The nice thing about the Cobra is that it has the clearance, but it's also a pretty straight shaft so you can use it for alpine. ...sorry, off the subject.
YES, you can use different tools. Put your best tool in your weak hand.
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tradman
Jul 10, 2003, 10:32 AM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2003
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In my experience it's not a huge problem in most circumstances. For a long time I've been using a straight shafted long axe in my left hand and a short technical axe in my right. The imbalance in weights isn't an issue if you're strong enough (okay I'm like 6'3" and 210), and your style will adapt quickly.
ADVANTAGES:
Improved versatility on ridges and non-technical terrain (obviously a short axe is a problem for a guy my size when walking). Straight shafts make easier and more secure belays. Straight mountain axes "stick" well in good ice, and the technical tool will help on rockier stuff.
DISADVANTAGES:
Okay, this is a big one, but straight axes are less than ideal for hooking, torquing and other technical moves. The combination will leave you with a big imbalance on mixed terrain - and on hard routes, weak hooking in one hand could give you bad problems. The only other issue is that gear heads will laugh at you.
Not much help really, but try it out and see what happens - just don't do your tesing on anything risky!!!
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