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alpinerock
Sep 25, 2003, 12:42 AM
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A little while a ago i felt like i wasn't getting any stronger, so i went on trainingforclimbing.com on there i read something about "hypergravity training" (doing pullups with weights strapped to you) when i got on the boulders today i felt great, i almost onsited V5 (my previous best problem had been V4) :D and and no problems with sidpulling on sloped crimpers. I'm asking for all of you who have been doing this, speak up and tell your story.
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climber49er
Sep 25, 2003, 1:04 AM
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My kids like to grab my legs and hang from them while I hang on my hangboard. When both my boys attack at once it reeeaaaally gets hard to hold on! Other than that I haven't done it. :)
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alwaysforward
Sep 25, 2003, 2:41 AM
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pfffftt.
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sandbag
Sep 25, 2003, 2:51 AM
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I used to climb at the gym and after i was totally pumped out i would put 25-30 lbs in my back pack and do pullups till i couldnt hold on....
but it was the same old gravity
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tenn_dawg
Sep 25, 2003, 3:04 AM
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Here is a link to a topic with more information and arguing and flaming than you could ever imagine...
There's some good info too, as well as my personal improvements...
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34963
Travis
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rockprodigy
Sep 25, 2003, 4:01 AM
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That's how I went from a Rockwannabe to a Rockprodigy...but seriously, folks.
I never called it "hyper gravity" training, but for the past 5-6 years I have been doing hangboard workouts with weights. I also do workouts with weight taken off using a pulley system I rigged up which is very helpful as well.
When I started doing this 5-6 years ago, I was projecting 5.11a's, now I am sending 13's. That may not sound too impressive, but I also climb alpine, trad, ice, etc. I think if I strictly sport-climbed, I would be better, but I would also be burnt out...so, yes it definitely works, however, I am very motivated, and disciplined. Most climbers are not. Most people would think I am crazy and would rather just go climbing... and that is totally cool for them. I am not satisfied being "average", but I also feel I was born with absolutely no natural talent for climbing, so I have to train in order to "good".
If you want to get into it, read Performance Rockclimbing. My advice: forget training and just go have fun.
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tomclimbs
Sep 25, 2003, 3:25 PM
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I have been hyper gravity training for years.
I always keep 10-20 pounds of weights safely stored in my belly.
If I were to go on a hunger strike I would be able to climb like MAD MAD I TELL YOU!!
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traddad
Sep 25, 2003, 3:42 PM
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I do it. Every time I take a road trip to Jupiter.
Lost in the ozone again...
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redpoint73
Sep 25, 2003, 3:49 PM
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The hyper gravity training that Eric Horst promotes is actually doing a system board type routine with specifically designed rungs, while attaching weights to your body-- not pullups.
You can click the link that Tenndawg posted to read many opinions about this workout. Plus lots of comments by Horst haters.
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deadpointman
Sep 25, 2003, 5:35 PM
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In reply to: The hyper gravity training that Eric Horst promotes is actually doing a system board type routine with specifically designed rungs, while attaching weights to your body-- not pullups. You can click the link that Tenndawg posted to read many opinions about this workout. Plus lots of comments by Horst haters.
"Horst haters?" :shock: What reason could anyone possibly find to hate Eric Horst? Absurd. It's probably just that some people want to be good but are too lazy to train, and are in denial that training might help. Thus, Horst is perceived as a threat to their way of doing things. Some people just enjoy climbing itself regardless of how hard they climb--which is cool too, as far as I'm concerned. Anyone who truly fits in this category, though, would have no reason to dislike Eric Horst.
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neadamthal
Sep 25, 2003, 5:57 PM
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In reply to: now I am sending 13's. That may not sound too impressive
that's plenty impressive enough for me!
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hroldan
Sep 25, 2003, 6:51 PM
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Yep, I've been there and it works but is not the best ever... I mean, there's a lot involved on climbing that the weigth. I used to climb with a 3-5 lbs extra (gym) to get use to the gear when leading and it worked fine!
Yea, when taking off the weight, you climb better or at least you feel less heavy and like you can fly!!! but is more valuable the footwork and so on.
I used to train also with pullups with 75% of my maximum weight tolered (for explosive strength) and it worked too. But IN MY CASE I noticed improovements, yes, but mostly I could hang for more time on one hand, doing tech stuff based only on my strenght, and stay in holds for more time... that's for me but anything that helps you, bring it on!
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solid
Sep 26, 2003, 7:35 PM
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train smaller holds. chances are you aren't strong enough to get the full effect of that type of training.
once you are, it's still retarded.
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captainstatic
Sep 26, 2003, 9:21 PM
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I have done the HIT strip regiment in two different training cycles. Such a workout is only for advanced climbers looking to push their envelope. Your nutritional regimen is also important while doing this or any other type of power building work-out.
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xanx
Sep 26, 2003, 10:25 PM
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wow... it looks to me like you are all just begging for an injury, such as a serious case of tendonitis or popping a tendon or a stress fracture. my friend got a stress fracture in his middle finger (and will now never grab a mono with his left hand) just from "normal" climbing - climbing is inherently very strenuous on your body and can wear you out quickley.
training with weight will probably yeild great results in the short run, but unless you GRADUALLY increase the weight (like 1 lb a week or less), you stand the chance, IMO, of injuring yourself rather quickly. and even if you dont, say you are lucky and weight train like this for 5 years w/out injuries - how long do you honestly think you will be able to stay climbing? your body does have limits.
i shudder when i think of what would happen to my body if i climbed with weights... one of my goals is to climb really hard (above V10), but another is to be able to climb when i am 65, like John Gill. but, to each his own. just know the risk u are taking.
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captainstatic
Sep 29, 2003, 5:42 PM
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Granted, hypergravity isolation training carries its risk of injury. However, this is minimized through proper warm-up, training w/a partner to spot, and taping of finger joints. In the work-out weight is actually added until muscular failure is reached within a certain number of moves. Significant strength gains can be realized over a short period of time and can be built upon if HIT training is followed by a cycle of power-endurance training. HIT training is not something that you do on a constant basis, only for 2-3 weeks, 2 or 3 times a year.
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