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jcinco
Oct 28, 2003, 5:25 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Looks like there's lots of good rock back East.
Here's the deal: I may have the opportunity to take a 3-4 month road trip next fall (September through December). I've climbed very extensively at most of the classic West Coast climbing spots that would be good during the fall season: Yosemite, Moab/I. Creek, Zion, J Tree, Red Rocks, Colorado, Hueco. I'm too poor and disorganized to do a Euro trip, so I'm thinking this may be the time to head East, especially since I've never climbed east of the Mississippi.
I'll likely be travelling by myself, so I'll be concentrating on areas where I can show up, find convenient free camping, and meet partners easily. The two areas that interest me the most are the Gunks and the Red River Gorge, though I'd love to make side trips to the New, Seneca, western N.C., T-Wall, and some deep south "Fontainbleau-quality" bouldering. I know about Miguel's at the Red, but are there similar climber haunts at other eastern areas? Are there areas that I'm missing that have a scene where its easy to hook up with other climbers, that have free or cheap camping nearby?
So if you had Labor day through December to climb back east, what would your "dream" itinerary be? In responding, keep in mind that I will be travelling alone, dirtbagging it, and scrambling to scrounge up partners.
-Joe
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mheyman
Oct 28, 2003, 5:37 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2002
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Start further north when it’s warm. Don’t leave out the Daks or Rumney. Maybe Cannon. Then head south to the Gunks. The PA side of the gap might be worth a day or two if you have partners lined up in advance. Head further south as it cools off.
I’ve added a few don’t miss northern areas. Others can add the southern ones.
Mark
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adampaiva
Oct 28, 2003, 5:41 PM
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if you make a stop at the new river gorge (which I suggest you do), you can camp at Roger's campground. Search around the internet for directions, it is pretty easy to find. It's not free, 5 bucks, but the only people that camp there are climbers so you can find a partner and its within walking distance of kaymoor.
--adam
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orangekyak
Oct 28, 2003, 5:57 PM
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My dream East Coast trip would have to have a partner, since I'd want to make sure I could climb every climbing day, not waste a day looking for a partner. You could always use rc.com to get partners for certain time spans at certain locations.
Either way, I'd start in New Hampshire and work my way down to Alabama. Maine has a couple nice crags too, but I'm not sure how the situation is with partners and free camping at Acadia and Katahdin.
In New Hampshire, hit North Conway crags such as Cathedral and Whitehorse Ledges. Cruise to local gear shops to ask around about free camping. I'm sure someone would hook you up. Cannon is a must-do as well. It's the biggest cliff in the northeast, and relatively accessable. Score a partner for Cannon while you're in North Conway.
Rumney (sport haven) is your next stop. $5/night camping across the street. Cruise down to Pawtuckaway thereafter for awesome granite bouldering. Check newenglandbouldering.com for info about camping.
You should make at least a day trip to Lincoln Woods in Rhode Island. Excellent bouldering, but I'm not sure there's much in the way of camping around there.
Next stop, Gunks! Free camping galore at camp slime and the multi-abuse area. Partner up at the uberfall and you're all set.
If it gets too cold for you at the gunks, you'll probably want to hit Seneca Rocks in West Virginia. I'm not sure what the free camping situation is like down there, but I understand it's easy to meet up with partners.
The New and the Red should be your next stops. There are a couple options for free and cheap camping at the New, including at the Gauley river dam (if you don't mind boaters).
In Tennessee, I'd make sure to see the Obed, Foster Falls and Tennessee Wall. All three are pretty good spots for when the weather gets colder. When you're ready for pebble wrestling, check out HP40 and rocktown in Alabama.
On your way back out west, it might be worthwhile to check out the rock in arkansas, if it's not too cold, and texas, although I don't know anything about it other than Hueco is there, somewhere.
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zachres
Oct 28, 2003, 6:12 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2003
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Spend at least a month or two in the GUNKS!!!
This is where I learned to climb, and it's a wonderland of classic routes. I spent three months there this summer (my first climbing season), and I was completely occupied, onsighting all of the classic 5.6s, 5.7s, 5.8s, and some of the 5.9s.
My point is that there are a massive amount of classic routes in the Gunks that are easily accessible and wildly exciting and unique. Also, camping and finding partners are a breeze... there are two campsites; one 2 miles down the road, and one 200 yards from the cliffs. Finding partners is aldo easy... go to www.gunks.com or hang out with a bunch of gear and a sad look on your face, on the cairrage road at the base of the cliffs... worked for me many times.
Zach
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hendicrimpin
Oct 28, 2003, 6:33 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2001
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hit up looking glass and linville if you get in a multipitch mood - but it sounds like you've got the right idea.
ps. rocktown is in georgia.
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jcinco
Oct 28, 2003, 10:33 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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Thanks for the responses! Stay tuned... I may try to hit ya'll up for partners when the time comes...
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scallywag
Oct 28, 2003, 10:47 PM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2003
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where were you this year??? i just did a similar trip. also went solo. be prepared for a lot of stuffing around amongst the abundance of enjoyable climbing!
this site is a great resource, as you no doubt already know.
i will be in the area of New England end of august/start of september if you want a partner for the conway/cannon area. But then i am heading north to Canada.
goodluck, you will have a blast.
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afiveonbelay
Oct 28, 2003, 11:28 PM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2003
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Climbed at the Gunks with a fella from Alberta who was here for 2 weeks. Good climber, nice guy, didn't smell, and he felt that in the east it was harder to find partners on weekdays than running a solo trip out west. And this was AT the Gunks, the busiest crag in the country. Go figure! Am going to do the same in 2 weeks at new river gorge but am afraid of being shutdown in the middle of the week.
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adamtd
Oct 30, 2003, 2:19 AM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2002
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It's defintiely possible to come to teh east coast with out a partner and find one, but I'll warn you that it isn't as easy as out west. I just got back form Yosemite where I was stayingin Camp 4. I just hooked up with new peopel left and right and climbed. Here on teh east coast it's harder to find places where people flock and stay an entiore season. Don't be discouraged, i would just suggest making plans to meet people along the way. The website is a great resource.
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