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jmlangford
Feb 22, 2002, 6:49 AM
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I have the old-style Huecos and they are fine. The new ones look like they are more comfortable and even better made.
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maculated
Feb 22, 2002, 5:58 AM
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So, I've been climbing now for more than six months and my shoes are getting pretty thrashed from three days or so of climbing every week. I really like them, currently Five.Ten I dunnos. I haven't seen them for sale anywhere lately, but they are definitely entry-levels (and are jewel green). Love the C4 soles, I guess.
But lately I can't stick my boulder problems and holds as well and I have no idea when its time to resole - but I got these shoes for $30 off ebay, so I can afford to get new shoes if the timing's right.
I'm starting to ease into Trad (SLOWLY), but am mainly doing a hybrid of sport and bouldering. I saw a guy the other day with the huecos and they looked really ideal for me.
I just wonder about that heel with the ripple-thingy going on. You guys have to have some out there - what do you think of them?
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apollodorus
Feb 22, 2002, 6:58 AM
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I read a story somewhere on rc.com where a Gatorade bottle broke in a haul bag, soaking everything. The hapless victim found, though, that his shoes now had Super Sticky Rubber.
Just an idea. You could probably wash the Gatorade off with water if it didn't work.
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maculated
Feb 22, 2002, 5:10 PM
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Apollo, nice!
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willstrickland
Feb 22, 2002, 6:23 PM
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I have a pair and they are excellent for their intended use: long free trad routes. They are super comfortable (easily the most comfortable shoe I've worn), not too stiff, but enough to give support on a long day. The heels make walking and standing more comfy, and the tread keeps you from sliding around on the "ball bearing" pebbles when descending dirty slabs/trails etc. If you are primarily bouldering/sport climbing, and are farily new, I'd buy a slipper. They're cheap (you're much rougher on shoes when starting out from non-precise foot placements), they climb excellent -very precise, and for sport/bouldering they are much better suited than the Hueco. I can't recommend one slipper over another, they all work well, although the old vipers are my faves. I own probably 9 or 10 pairs of shoes, and I break out the huecos when I'm on something that's multi-pitch and a number grade or more below my best onsighting grade at the time. If there's a desperately steep pitch, a very thin crack, or funky stemming I'll often take a pair of slippers as well.
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jt512
Feb 22, 2002, 6:45 PM
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Maculated, if you're doing mostly bouldering and sport climbing, I wouldn't get the Huecos. They are a trad shoe, made for comfort, not precision. If you want one shoe that will perform well in both trad and sport, I'd suggest either the Five-Ten Ascent or the Newton.
If you can get down to SoCal on a Friday afternoon, you can visit Five-Ten's outlet store in Redlands. It's off the 10 Fwy, on the way to J Tree. They sell cosmetic seconds at about 40% off the retail price. They also carry a full selection of non-seconds (firsts?), so you can try on everything and see what shoe fits your foot best.
-Jay
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rrrADAM
Feb 23, 2002, 1:14 AM
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I have the old style Huecos, and I love 'em even though they've had two 1/2 soles.
jt512... You just named my other two pairs of shoes, Ascents & Newtons.
Stealth C4 is "the stickiest rubber on earth". I even know people who buy shoes other than FiveTen, and have them resoled with Stealth C4 right outta the box.
rrrADAM
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maculated
Feb 26, 2002, 6:01 AM
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Okay, new question for you guys:
It's coming down to the Boreal Ace (it just seems to be touted as the bestest shoe ever) and either the Five.Ten Zlipper (since I've been pushed toward the slipper) or the Newton.
So here's the deal: say they all fit me well - and I'm still relatively new, but I'm definitely not 'novice' anymore. I'm most at home on tiny edges and pockets on vertical or less routes, and most of my climbs involve friction.
That Boreal shoe looks nice, but I've been told to stay away . . . what do you think? This is becoming somewhat agonizing.
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climbingaddict
Feb 26, 2002, 12:25 PM
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apollo, i didn't know about that. Thanks. I'm gonna do that more often now. And maculated, i'd probably go for the zlippers, they're pretty good. My friend tried to make me buy a pair, but, i bought a pair of anasazi velcros instead.
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jt512
Feb 26, 2002, 5:26 PM
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The Zlipper is a great-performing shoe for sport climbing, but they are going to be hideously painful in cracks. Also, some people (including me) have had the zippers break prematurely.
Boreal's rubber is not as sticky as Five-Ten's, but, supposedly, Boreal has improved it, and if you don't like it, you can always have it replaced with C4 (for $50).
It's hard to see how you could go wrong with the Newtons (provided they fit).
-Jay
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maculated
Feb 28, 2002, 7:34 AM
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Just for the record, I went with the Newtons. Once JT told me pain in cracks, I bailed on the Zlippers. I'm a crack climbing lover.
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wandt
Feb 28, 2002, 8:07 AM
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The Aces could be ideal for you. If you climb cracks and practically nothing else. They are board lasted. That means that they have a woooden board in the sole. This gives your foot a great deal of rigid support and makes cracks mush less painful than otherwise, but it makes huge sacrifes in the way of precision and senitivity. The first thing you'll notice when you climb inside with them is the loud clunking you make as your feet maul the wall, missing the hold. I would not recommend them for pockets. The toes are slanted up and are quite round, as opposed to the Zlipppers, which (if I recall correctly) have the pointy toe, ideal for pockets and overhanging edgy stuff. So, for your needs, I recommend against the Aces.
The Zlippers, on the other hand, initially seem quite good for pockets and edging. Don't expect to do any long routes in them, I'd say. I ahven't inspected them closely, but if I remember right the rubber is quite thin, so you'll get great sensitivity but not a long life out of them. Also I have trepedations aboutt he zipper. Strikes me as a gimmick and an unneccessary moving part that will jam up with chalk and dirt.
My suggestions:
For specializing in pockets, the 5.10 Anasazi Velcro is my top choice. La Sportiva has some really pointy-toed shoes, but I like the C4.
Edges: 5.10 Anasazi lace-up. Probably the best precision shoe I've ever used.
Unfortunately, both are pricey. On the bright side, the 5.10 Moccassym is built on the same last as the Anasazi's (so it's pretty much the same shape), is cheap, lasts for a fairly long time (thick-ish rubber) but is still sensitive, is a slipper (convenient for gym/bouldering) and is red, as opposed to the velcro's pastel peach and the lace-up's pastel pink(?). So, Moccassym probably gets my top vote.
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jt512
Feb 28, 2002, 11:32 PM
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Quote:Also I have trepedations aboutt he zipper. Strikes me as a gimmick and an unneccessary moving part that will jam up with chalk and dirt.
Oh, no, they break long before they have time to get dirty.
-Jay
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felixthecat
Mar 1, 2002, 12:26 AM
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good one to go with. i love my newtons although i just bought a pair of velcro anastzis. but my newtons pull on almost anything i climb whether it be trad, sport or bouldering.
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maculated
Mar 2, 2002, 2:44 AM
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Dude, I got my Newtons from Barrebes today and THEY FREAKING rock! Thank you for the advice!!!
That only took 3 days to get to California from Spain! Yeeeha!
Kristin
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