|
fo_d
Feb 22, 2002, 12:31 PM
Post #1 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2001
Posts: 918
|
OK, I finally get my REI rebate and I buy the LaSportiva Miura's that I've been drooling over, I go out to climb on the pinnacle an overhanging route that I have wired, and just under the roof my foot is slipping of a hold that I never gave a 2ed tought to before, then when I pull the roof I have to smear as I stand up and my foot slips off twice. So I'm not real happy when I get down and I'm thinking I made a mistake, but one of the guys from REI says the rubber needs to brake-in before they will stick, and another guy with Mythos shoes said his stuck better the longer he used them. does anyone else know anything about this?
Thanks
Les
[ This Message was edited by: fo_d on 2002-02-22 04:33 ]
|
|
|
|
|
gekolimit
Feb 22, 2002, 1:18 PM
Post #2 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 20, 2002
Posts: 144
|
I agree it takes time for the rubber to do it's job. I remember buying a pair of brand new boreal zen shoes specialy for a trip to france and not using them there due to the same experience you are having now. Let me say, after comming home (singapore) i started to use my new shoes more, and litteraly over time as they got warn in they started to stick more and more.
Now they are like superglue!!!
Dons sworry...give it time
|
|
|
|
|
traddad
Feb 22, 2002, 2:05 PM
Post #3 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
|
Rubber oxidizes and often the sticky resin just gets "used up" on the outside layer of the sole. If they have been sitting in the box, in the closet or heaven forbid, on display in the store for a while, they probably need a little sanding. I always carry a couple of small chunks of "Scotch Brite" pad in my pack for just such occasions. The Vermin has a great treatment of this subject in "Better Bouldering".
Racing tires depend on being "scrubbed" in order to expose fresh rubber.
Traddad
|
|
|
|
|
stickit
Feb 22, 2002, 3:40 PM
Post #4 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 26, 2002
Posts: 59
|
For what it's worth, toothpaste is my answer to slippery shoes. It breaks in the rubber as well as revives old rubber. Wet the sole and apply a squirt of the toothpaste. Rub it into the sole with your fingures for about a minute. Wash it all off (very important) and the shoe sticks like crazy.
|
|
|
|
|
dontneedfeet
Feb 22, 2002, 4:21 PM
Post #5 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 124
|
I had the same problems with Miuras when I first bought them. Two things - first, they're cambered, which seems worse for smearing, although after awhile, you don't notice it. Secondly, the rubber will break in. Try lightly sandpapering the corners of the shoe... .
|
|
|
|
|
natec
Feb 22, 2002, 4:22 PM
Post #6 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2001
Posts: 667
|
I have also found bug and tar remover to be a great tool in refreshing the rubber. Make sure that you use a very thin coat over the sole only. Wipe it off very well and allow a couple of hours to air dry. You will be amazed at how sticky the newly exposed layer of rubber is.
|
|
|
|
|
ratstar
Feb 22, 2002, 4:34 PM
Post #7 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 11, 2001
Posts: 1144
|
I used a wire brush. they work great too.
|
|
|
|
|
fo_d
Feb 22, 2002, 6:57 PM
Post #8 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2001
Posts: 918
|
ok, thanks for the info, I'm not going to do anything to the rubber just yet, I'll wait and see how they do as I use them. I think I better hurry and send my spires off for resole so im not tempted to keep wearing them, then I'll never get these things broke in.
Les
|
|
|
|
|
apollodorus
Feb 23, 2002, 10:56 AM
Post #9 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 2157
|
I like the idea of using toothpaste, but have only used it for my scuba mask. The non-gel types take off whatever oily film is used in the manufacturing process. The official PADI Scuba Manual says: use toothpaste to clean the inside of your mask before you use it.
Too bad there isn't a PACI (Professional Association of Climbing Instructors) manual to tell you how to fix your brand new shoes.
Thank God for rc.com
|
|
|
|
|
miagi
Feb 23, 2002, 3:48 PM
Post #10 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2002
Posts: 1087
|
I just tried the bug and tar remover on my shoe. Im going to try and see how it feels some time today when i can get out. I just bought a new pair of Kermits from climbing shoes.com. They held up very well but are slippery none the less. Hope this will help em
|
|
|
|
|
floof
Feb 25, 2002, 9:24 AM
Post #11 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 11, 2002
Posts: 112
|
just wondering if Stealth rubber (like on 5.10 shoes) needs treatment like those described above.
|
|
|
|
|
fo_d
Feb 25, 2002, 12:13 PM
Post #12 of 12
(12959 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2001
Posts: 918
|
The stealth on my 5.10 spires was sticky from day one, I never did anything to it except wipe with a damp cloth when the got mud on them.
|
|
|
|
|
|
