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layering
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supercrux


Jan 13, 2004, 5:48 PM
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layering
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what is a good layering system for ice climbing and mountaineering?
how warm should the base layer be?
fleece or soft shell ontop of that?
etc.


crag


Jan 13, 2004, 8:20 PM
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Trial and error has been my expereince. Earlier on I used to over dress all the time and end-up soaked from sweat, not a good thing. Finally started to go with as little as possible on just day climbs, was amazed at how comfortable I was. I don't use my 200 wgt fleece anymore just to heavy and warm.

(Lite weight and keep moving). Medium weight fleece tops with a Wind Pro shirt, belay jackets synthetic is what I end-ed up with, and Schoeller pants with either a silk, light wght or medium weight under it depending on conditons or activity. Still carry light weight shell jacket & pants for wet conditions or real heavy wind.


gunked


Jan 13, 2004, 8:59 PM
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No kidding on the "Trial and error" part!

I primarily ice-climb and find that over-dressing is a big mistake as well.

The Base layer should be a wicking layer. It's job is to keep you dry. This statement applies to socks and underwear as well. The best sock liners that I have found after extensive trial and error is one of the cheapest : Wigwam Coolmax liners (about $5). There are a quite a few, I'm sure, good long underwear manufacturers out there. My favorite has always been Patagonia. I also use the latest Marmot stuff (Their old stuff was pretty uncomfortable). I recommend not to get stuff that's skin-tight. Your skin needs room to breathe! As far as underwear goes, I also prefer Patagonia and Marmot. I have umpteen pairs of silk-weight boxers (Pata.) and a few new pairs of Marmot's boxer-briefs which I love.

Your Insulating layer can be a number of things, but I usually go for multiple lighter layers instead of one heavier one. It gives you the freedom to be comfortable whilst climbing, hiking with a pack , or just standing there belaying. Fleece is, I believe, the way to go as it stays warm when wet, transfers moiture and vapor well, and doesn't weigh much. I usually include a wind-shirt as one of my insulating layers as it can double as a windproof and water-resistant shell when the temps permit.

Your Outer layer should protect you from the elements. I almost always go with a lighter weight shell unless the conditions are downright brutal. My favorite shell is a soft-shell by Cloudveil. In fact, I hardly ever use any of the other shells anymore!

Hope that helped! Remember that the most important thing is to stay DRY!!! If you have too much on, you'll sweat like a pig and then freeze your ass off while belaying. I always bring a belay parka (Synthetic) for belays or standing around.

-Jason :D


bostonclimbah


Jan 13, 2004, 9:17 PM
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All of the above info is great. As far the outer layers go, the most popular stuff in my neck of the woods has been the insulated EP jackets from Wild Things in North Conway NH. Most of the climbers and guides in the area have been using it for years. I used Gore Tex and Fleece for a long time but I've recently converted and couldn't be happier about. Their soft shell stuff is just as water proof and WAY MORE breathable than Gore Tex. It's also significantly cheaper than most stuff on the market. I just bought my EP for $165. The folks that work there are all climbers and pretty damn proud of their product and they stand behind it. It's worth a look.


sinorock


Jan 14, 2004, 1:17 AM
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Softshell rocks, as long as the water is not pouring down.

MEC.ca offers cheaper but well-made softshells.
The Pamir bibs they made are quite nice. The cut is very slim (so the crampon will not catch it). The bibs have through-crotch zips which makes everything much easier.

My layering system -25C/-15F
Top: wicking base layer+thin fleece (Marmot omnishirt) +soft shell
bottom: wicking base layer (expidition weight + polartec powershield softshell)
Belay jacket: EMS synthetic
Head: 100 fleece balaclava under the helmet to cover face and neck (so ice doesn't go in)


pehperboy


Jan 14, 2004, 3:00 AM
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Much depends on the severity of the weather. Inevitibly I trust that if it feels cold when I start, I'll be warmer within a short time. But I like to bring what I can (within reason) depending on existing or possible condtions.

• At the skin: good polyester or similar wicking material, including socks.
• Over that: Light shirt (again polyester or something similar), and climbing pants.
If it's not too cold that's what I'll stick with on a day hike until I stop and pull on a heavier top before I cool down.
• When it's cooler: add a wool sweater.
• Cool with wind: add a fleece top.
• For going through snow: Goretex overpants topped with gaiters.
• Real cold: add fleece pants under Gore Tex and an Anorak.
• Damn cold: puffy down jacket.

Note: no cotton! I'm sure y'all know this but for anyone who may not cotton will kill you in the mountains. It does not wick, dry or insulate well enough and it's a guaranteed recipe for hypothermia.


supercrux


Jan 14, 2004, 1:50 PM
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what base layer do you use, light-weight, mid-weight?
I dont have any and want to know how many and of wich kind to get for a month in the himaleyas.


ckclassic


Jan 14, 2004, 2:42 PM
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I have found "UnderArmour" cold gear to be very great to use. It is a very thin first layer that is very warm in itself, yet for extreme cold, adding more layers on top of it works really well. Check it out at their site - http://www.underarmour.com


attitude


Jan 21, 2004, 1:03 AM
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Here's another opinion:

http://www.promountainsports.com/clothing.shtml


andypro


Jan 23, 2004, 11:36 AM
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In reply to:
what base layer do you use, light-weight, mid-weight?
I dont have any and want to know how many and of wich kind to get for a month in the himaleyas.

What kind of month in the himalaya? High altitude peaks? Trekking? Lazing around watching pakistan and tibet and china go at it?

It really depends on wha youll be doing, but it's no different than any other area. If your spending a month and doing all sorts of things...for a base layer, I'd take all three (light, mid, and heavy). You'll have to do research to see if you really need to, but keep your options open. That is the point of layering after all.


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