|
|
|
|
jonthorpe
Feb 27, 2004, 2:21 AM
Post #1 of 5
(1015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 18
|
First of all I would like to say "Hello", as i'm a newbie to the forum, but definately not to climbing. Although I don't currently have any climbing photos up, I was hoping I could help with critique and such here as I have a bit of a photography background, and am also knowledgeable in digital post processing techniques.
So anyways... since it really is the off-season, and very few of us have actually been motivated enough to enter the 'ice box' to get some shots in (save the guys in the sunny south of course), I was wondering if anyone here has been doing some indoor photography?
There's a ton of technique into getting indoor shots to come out right due to the various restrictions and conditions including space limitations, ambiant lighting (sodium/tungsten ugh), dust/environmental factors.
So are there any pro's or seasoned photographers that would like to share some advice?
I have personally shot indoors for other sports (mostly bmx/street) and feel that theres a pretty close comparison.
When shooting BMX I like to use a selection of lenses usually ranging from 120mm down to 15mm fish. Lighter the better (F 1.8-3max if i can) due to the usually poor lighting quality.
Even under VERY poor quality tungsten lighting, you can get some suprisingly good results from using bright lenses and longish exposures - even without a flash (although it certainly does help for fill) When shooting infooes under pretty crap lighting, i was able to shoot at 1/40th-1/60th @ f2.8 - ISO400/800 and get some pretty bright photos after a light post processing.
So does anyone here have any good indoor (comps. or otherwise) photos to share? or some techniques / gear reccomendations?
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Feb 27, 2004, 6:26 AM
Post #2 of 5
(1015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
The best thing I've seen was portable halogen lights, the ones they use for contruction and stuff, arrayed to light the whole place up the way the photographer wants it, and then leave the flash off. If you use the flash in the gym, you're gonna get all the specks of chalk and a sucky picture. The air is filled with the stuff, so the light source has to come from somewhere else. Check the Metolius gear catalogues for some good indoor pics. High contrast, bright lights and dark shadows.
|
|
|
|
|
jonthorpe
Feb 27, 2004, 2:28 PM
Post #3 of 5
(1015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 18
|
You could always use remote flashes to avoid the "Giant dust particles are eating my shots" photos though.
But i like the idea of the halogens - they are cheap in comparison to even the cheapest remote flash setup!
I was thinking of using an off-camera flash (hot shoe corded) just so I could get the flash far enough away from the camera to avoid reflection off particles, directly into the lens.
One setup that I saw Mike Landkroon as a comp was a whole array of studio flashes up the finals wall. Must not have been cheap - but it gave some amazing lighting.
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Feb 27, 2004, 5:37 PM
Post #4 of 5
(1015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
Yeah, remote flashes would be cool. I'm no pro, so I never thought of that. ;)
|
|
|
|
|
biff
Feb 29, 2004, 10:18 PM
Post #5 of 5
(1015 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 5, 2001
Posts: 851
|
Here are some photos from Friday feb 27 night.
38 of my favourite photos
http://www.enel.ucalgary.ca/...climbing/2004_feb27/
200 of the 500 that I took. (warning .. not for dial up users)
http://www.enel.ucalgary.ca/...bing/2004_feb27_big/
I have a ton of other indoor photos (some good, some not so good) from other comps in my gallery.
those photos from friday were taken with my new 12-24 f4.5-5.6 sigma lens and my 50mm f1.8.
I had my ISO setting at 1600, except the last photo which was at 3200. The images on the site have not had any noise reduction applied.
The lighting conditions were prety bad, but they did provide a good atmosphere for the shots that wern't too blurry. I tried to avoid flash, since I only have a builtin flash, and a huge shadow is cast from my 12-24 if it isn't in the 20-24mm range. and because of the nasty chalk effect mentioned by eveyone else.
Most shots were manual focus, which was harder on my 50mm 1.8 becasue it was designed to be autofocus, the focus ring is too small, and too touchy.
Let me know if there is any more informatoin I can provide.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
