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timpanogos
Mar 14, 2004, 3:12 AM
Post #1 of 3
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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There are two bolts in the middle of the ramp, about 2/3rds of the way to the anchor below Peeler Direct. If these bolts were about ½ way, it might keep someone off the lower deck. Sliding into the bottom of the ramp would not likely be fatal, but the sliding off the ramp, which would surely follow, would likely be. It seems to me that if bolts are going to be installed on a free R/X section of an aid route, it should be to drop the X to an R.
I would suggest chopping those bolts as they give a false sense of security, and lowering them if they are deemed worthy. Damn, thats a scary ramp.
Chad
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timpanogos
Mar 15, 2004, 4:44 PM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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More info on this ramp - this copied from a supertopo thread:
Still alive but very tired damn aid is hard work.
What a beautiful day! Granite flakes got to love them.
Did an alternate start called Riveting. It has a nasty 5.6ish R/X run-out ramp to get to first rivet, which is followed by a bolt, then rivet, bolt, rivet. It is very hard to setup a solo anchor on this pitch which is then useless until you get to the first bolt. Getting to the anchor at the bottom of Peeler Direct, you are looking down this big ramp for the normal Black Peeler start heck it did not APPEAR to be any worse than the parallel ramp below getting to the rivet (wrong). The direct crack was awesome ate up small aliens and small brass. Still lots of water on the 3 and 3.5 pitches, so I decide to clean and do the normal start as it was still fairly early.
The normal start was a lot of fun arched flake that liked the three smallest aliens and small nuts. You get up to the ramp and get your first feel of going from aid to free on the slab, Exciting but turns out to be sissy compared to whats ahead! You climb up on this 15 ramp, that traverses heck about 40 or so up to the anchors, and of course, the ramp angles sharply towards the edge there are two bolts right in the middle of the ramp about Ύ of the way up to the anchor. If you dont make it to here its gonna be a double ground fall, first time, smacking into the bottom of the ramp, then spilling over the edge and ground falling again, all this after scrapping all the skin from your hands/knees etc. You can get a solid anchor in at the bottom of the ramp against the cliff. Of course first impression is to stay close to the wall and try and find holds however, there is this green colored rock in close and its slick as snot. So I lower myself on the grigri out to the edge of the ramp, were things look much better. This gives me some arching in the rope up the ramp with some resistance help from the grigri but I finally get to that spooky position of needing to go for it. So I reel out arms full of slack, and in terror, look to those heavenly looking bolts. Im moving Im sticking Im getting closer I run out of slack about 3 feet short! Butt in the air, both bare palms pressing for friction double ground fall if I pitch (first 27 at bottom of ramp, then another as you slide off the ramp. Shit!!! Soloing friction slab SUCKS. So I brave one hand off the ramp, and pressing the round part of the grigri handle against my leg, I can pull about 4 of slack in that grigri at a time. Time warped, not fast, but super slow Both calves are burning like hell, I dont dare budge them. Fumble, cuss, pray, fumble cuss pray, and finally, now I have a free hand, adjustable ready Ive got this burning focus on these beautiful bolts I swear clipping that Adjustable was better than sex.
So I finish the final 10 to the anchor. There was a cool traversing flake at the bottom of the ramp going the other direction and up to another bolt anchor. About a 5 hook arching traversal in an upward flake. So I rap back to the bottom of the ramp, pull the rope from the above anchor and do the hooking traverse, Rapp and clean.
I was actually very calm and felt good other than those darn friction slabs they are low angle, but just plan scary. I was eying the crack where the ramp meet the wall I think I have a darn good feel now for where a #1 KB and a hammer would make a guy feel good.
Anyway, that was the project for the day I wish I had a belay partner, at least for those first pitches, It is so darn time consuming building gear solo anchors. And doing a R/X runout on solo is scary as hell. However, on these ramps, even if you had a belay person it would not make any difference.
No pin practice today too tired when I got back down to the gully. Besides, jumping on those Black Aliens and #3 to #6 brassies is just too much fun!
Chad
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epic_ed
Mar 16, 2004, 6:42 AM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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epic_ed moved this thread from Aid Climbing to Trip Reports.
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