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sarcat
May 27, 2004, 4:34 PM
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Looks like a huge area. Will be there Saturday the 5th and would like to climb all day. Bringing the wife so mostly 5.7-5.9 sport or TR for her so if you have a partner also great! Looking at the route DB looks like the 5.8 Crag, Darth Vader Upper or Hinterlands would perfect or where ever else is suggested.
Thanks,
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edge
May 27, 2004, 4:53 PM
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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I'm not sure if I'll be climbing that day, but will keep you in mind and give a shout if I do.
I would put Hinterlands at the end of the list. There are better routes in the 5.7 - 5.9 range at the Parking Lot Wall and the Meadows, and the approach is about 2 minutes. (Hinterlands is about 1/2 hour and steep).
The 5.8 Crag and Upper Vader are both good.
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sujones65
May 27, 2004, 5:36 PM
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contact "honeyhiker"...she lives near there...is climbing or helping bolt routes there almost every day, and leads 5.7-5.8. I'm sure she would be happy to climb with your wife!!
sue
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stickclipper
May 27, 2004, 5:46 PM
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The best 5.8 at Rumney is Junco at Jimmy Cliff. Jimmy Cliff is also home to arguably the best 10a at Rumney, Lonesome Dove (the very rare Rumney slab route - one that the ladies often like more than the fellas). It is not too much of a hike, but the routes and the positioning are FAR better than you find at 5.8 crag or the Meadows (the Meadows does have plenty of 5.7-8, though)
Don't write off the Hinterlands, either. Jolt and Dolt are both great fun (and, interestingly, most people find Dolt, 5.9, harder than Jolt, 10b). They are some of the longer routes at Rumney and provide beautiful views as you approach their top (Jolt in particular)
If you go to Jimmy Cliff/Waimea/Vader, I would suggest stopping at Lower Vader on the way and doing Obi Won Ryobi and Yoda - two of the best 5.9's at Rumney.
If you really don't mind a hike and want to escape the crowds, then going up to Crow's nest is a possibility. It has some excellent moderate routes and is quite a nice setting (though, as stated, it is a bit of a hike - both it and the Hinterlands are 20-30minutes)
If you don't have a guidebook and have any particular questions... well, there's a decent chance I can give some sort of answer.
Edit- Thinking about it, Crow's nest has only one or two 8's and one 9 (though all are good). So that might not be the best call (unless low 10's are game). If you want quantity and access, do Meadows/5.8. If you want to do a wider arrange of routes and get more of the "Rumney flavor," then head uphill and go to 3 or 4 crags (you can always hit Meadows/5.8/Parking Lot Wall at the end of the day - good moderate routes in the Meadows off the top of my head: Truth In Advertising 7+, Bolt Line 8, Lies and Propoganda 9).
Ok, I'm babbling.
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edge
May 27, 2004, 5:51 PM
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Yep, what he said.^^^
Also some fun routes in that range on the right side of Triple Corners.
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stickclipper
May 27, 2004, 6:12 PM
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In reply to: Also some fun routes in that range on the right side of Triple Corners.
True. And an added benefit to going to Triple Corners is that you can walk beneath the China Beach section of Waimea and gawk at some of the best sport lines in the country.
Though Triple Corners suffers from much seepage for 1-3 days post rain.
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hstewart
May 27, 2004, 6:57 PM
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Registered: May 6, 2003
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In reply to: The best 5.8 at Rumney is Junco at Jimmy Cliff. Jimmy Cliff is also home to arguably the best 10a at Rumney, Lonesome Dove (the very rare Rumney slab route - one that the ladies often like more than the fellas). It is not too much of a hike, but the routes and the positioning are FAR better than you find at 5.8 crag or the Meadows (the Meadows does have plenty of 5.7-8, though)
^^what he said. The Junco and Lonesome dove are definitely two of the best 5.8/5.10s (respectively) in Rumney. (Though to be accurate, The Junco is actually an .8+.) The views are also great at Jimmy Cliff and the crowds are much thinner, so it's worth the hike. Be sure to knock off a few routes at Lower Darth on your way up - Yoda is an excellent line.
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sarcat
May 27, 2004, 7:01 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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GREAT! I've printed off the info for some of these walls. Sounds like we could spend days there. Maybe I'll see if we can come in Fri. and Sat.
Thanks for the info.
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troutboy
May 27, 2004, 7:09 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2003
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And the best part is you won't need to bring food. All the black flies you'll be sucking down while breathing will be plenty of protein for the day. :lol: And it's Atkins friendly !
Seriously, don't forget the bug juice. And if you're hiking all the way up to Jimmy Cliff, you might as well do Clippety-Do-Dah, even if it is only 5.3.
Beware, you might want to pre-clip the first bolt of Truth in Advertising, but you can do this w/o a stick clip from the gully on the right.
Another good 5.9 is the new route left of Truth in Advertising. Don't know the name, it's not in the book.
TS
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honeyhiker
May 28, 2004, 12:35 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2004
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I plan to be at Rumney all day Thursday and would love to meet you two Friday if you want or Saturday afternoon. Just let me know. :)
I've been having so much fun up there lately putting up routes. The Meadows and Parking Lot Wall have really expanded. I posted an update sheet on the bulletin board there and the routes have been added on the database here.
Chris
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