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mauta
Apr 26, 2002, 8:20 PM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2001
Posts: 177
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Hi !!
THIS FORUM IS A GOOD IDEA, CONGRATULATIONS!!
Here is my question of the day (i do not know the complete answer, by the way...).
I think it is somewhat unfair that MANY remember the name of the first climber/team/expedition summiting a peak, but almost nobody seems to remember the first repetition, that is the second ascent.
For instance, do you know, for all the 14 8000 peaks, which climber/team/expedition made the second ascent (no matter the route), and how many years after the FA did it happen?
JUAN
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polarwid
Apr 26, 2002, 9:14 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2001
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Yes, I know what you mean...
Many times the second ascent is made in a better "STYLE" than the first, say alpine instead of expedition, or free instead of aid (not that AID is BAD STYLE!!!)etc...
These ascents should be remebered too, many guidebooks mention first free, etc. so a lot of times the second does get a little notice.
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kaptk
May 1, 2002, 7:20 AM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2001
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I know that Lynn Hill was the first to free climb The Nose on El Cap. I have heard that there is one other person, a guy, who did it. Does anybody know is name?
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clintcummins
Nov 5, 2002, 10:03 AM
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Second ascents are remembered if there
were a lot of unsuccessful attempts
since the FA. But I wouldn't expect guidebooks to list second ascents; many of them do not even bother to list FA info.
The very hard free routes on El Cap
are an example of repeats which do get
press in climbing magazines.
I have a web page of "Long Hard and Free"
routes in Yosemite, where I try to list
significant repeats:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm
As for the second person to free the Nose
on El Cap, Scott Burke claimed it.
He was not able to redpoint the Great Roof
pitch, but he did toprope it and redpointed
all the rest. It was a huge effort and
accomplishment no matter how one chooses
to classify it.
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andy_lemon
Nov 6, 2002, 6:55 AM
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Registered: Sep 7, 2001
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Several first accents have more than one name to them. After the first accent, who cares who climbs it? It has been established. Unless, there is of course a climb such as Thurmonuclear's Crack (5.13a) which hasn't seen another accent in over a decade. Now the second accent will have accomplished a little on that climb.
As for expeditions, well, every major mountain usually has a list of every first expedition from each country.
If you are wondering why belayers are rarely mentioned then go here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=17114&forum=55&14
[ This Message was edited by: andy_lemon on 2002-11-05 23:04 ]
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