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yanqui
Jun 9, 2004, 2:30 PM
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A somewhat longwinded, but hopefully entertaining, true story that relates to the picture in the thread: 'What's Wrong with this Picture: The Untold Story'. It's a scary story, but has a happy ending. There are lessons to be drawn, so check it out, then comment or flame at will.
There's a route (I don't recall the name) at Peshastin Pinnacles in Washington State, which I still remember climbing, about 25 years ago. The route was rated 5.7+ and (if I recall correctly) was the easiest way up one of the pinnacles for which the area is named. Probably the grade was a little stiff, because the route seemed kind of hard, and for about 40 feet it went straight up a steep, pumpy face on big holds where the leader had to hang out and place stoppers in the soft sandstone. At the top of the face was a big blocky hold which the climber could grab from below and mantle (a crux move). After that, easy 5th class climbing led to the top.
Anyways, one day me and some friends were trying a route to the left (Bombshelter: I do remember that name) when a couple of noobs came up to try the 5.7+. So the belayer situates himself about 20 feet back from the cliff, just to be comfortable, I suppose, about like the belayer in the photo from the thread. Then the leader starts up. We see that he's struggling, but he manages to hang out and place 4 or so stoppers before he nears the big block at the top of the face. At this point the climber is sketching pretty bad, his legs are jackhammering like Gene Kelly doing a tap dance and the guy ends up making a desperate lunge for the big block. This sudden lunge causes the rope to tense up into a straight line between the belayer and the climber, which in turn results in upward and outward force on the stoppers, causing each one of them to lift out of its placement and slide gently down the rope towards the belayer.
Meanwhile, the leader is hanging straight armed from the big block, which he now must mantle or fall unprotected to the ground. And the base of climb is not the kind of place you would want to impact after accelerating from 40 feet up: I recall steep hillsides dropping off from a narrow crest in two directions and covered with death block boulders. Nothing like the base of the climb in the posted photo. So there we were watching this horror story unfold and unable to decide if we should keep watching or look away. It's like we wanted to cover our faces with our hands, but then peek through our open fingers.
Then the climber gives a desperate attempt at the mantle. At this point he's practically screaming in terror, and his feet go paddling helplessly away at the smooth side of the block. But just at the crucial leverage point, when his elbows are about to change position underneath his body weight, the guy's strength fails him and he collapses back into a straight arm hang position. At this point there's little we can do but watch. It's obvious that the climber's strength is almost spent and that he won't be able to hang out much longer. He must pull off the mantle or perhaps fall to his death.
A second attempt at the mantle again falls short at the crucial leverage point. The climber is now completely hysterical, but meanwhile, the idiot belayer seems to think the whole thing is kind of funny. There we were, at least trying to shout some encouragement to the guy, but there was little else we could do. Maybe the guy got an extra shot of adrenaline, who knows, but I think it was on his third try (though it could have been the fourth), that the guy finally managed to break the crucial point, get his arms underneath him and finish up the mantle to stand safely on the big block.
Whew ....
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the_antoon
Jun 9, 2004, 2:42 PM
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hell of a belayer :?
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joshklingbeil
Jun 9, 2004, 4:05 PM
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good job with the encouragement. you guys could have saved his life. I would of had a talk with them after their climb. And make sure they know where they made the mastakes. I sure as hell would not have been their next time when someone falls and shadders their head open and dies. Thats why I have my own climbing area so I can be sure to get that isolated feeling away from the horror shows. I've seen many a hiker 30 feet up ready to take the plunge. What can you say to these guys shaken their boots..
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the_antoon
Jun 9, 2004, 6:58 PM
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In reply to: good job with the encouragement. you guys could have saved his life. I would of had a talk with them after their climb. And make sure they know where they made the mastakes. I sure as hell would not have been their next time when someone falls and shadders their head open and dies. Thats why I have my own climbing area so I can be sure to get that isolated feeling away from the horror shows. I've seen many a hiker 30 feet up ready to take the plunge. What can you say to these guys shaken their boots..
...get the hell off the wall and don't come back without a guide!!!
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lehrski
Jun 12, 2004, 1:38 AM
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I've climbed that route (also can't remember the name) and I can't imagine doing that mantle move without any pro. A very solid "7+" move. If he survived decking, he would likely have taken a very long roll off to the left or right, possibly taking the belayer with him. Scary!
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billcoe_
Jun 12, 2004, 4:00 AM
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Wow, what a nightmare. Don't you just hate sh*t like that? Chris, what do you say or do?
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epic_ed
Jun 12, 2004, 4:06 AM
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epic_ed moved this thread from General to Trip Reports.
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overlord
Jun 12, 2004, 4:06 AM
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that about meets the definition of "sh*t*y belayer". and sounds WAY scary.
also what was that nonsense i heard about a multi directional first piece???
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tahoe_rock_master
Jun 12, 2004, 5:34 AM
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That is something I will have nightmares about. that is really sketchy. Some long slings might be in order here. oh yea, I agreee with overlord, talk about sh**y belayer!
matt
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beanricecheese
Jun 12, 2004, 5:43 AM
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Registered: May 1, 2004
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Wheeeeeeehhhhhhhhh
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