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johnson6102002
Sep 2, 2004, 1:40 AM
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ive been using my webbing for a slackline and have been streching it out quite a bit and i was wondering if it was ok for me to still use it to set up top rope anchors or should i strictly use it for slackin?
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actionfigure
Sep 2, 2004, 1:45 AM
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don't use it for climbing!
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johnson6102002
Sep 2, 2004, 1:49 AM
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what kind of streess does it put on it compared to normall use and how about the caribiners i use in my tightening system are they no good for climing either if they are just used for top roping?
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asaph
Sep 2, 2004, 2:00 AM
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If you don't know the physics involved (like me), just be extra safe and keep it all separate.
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johnson6102002
Sep 2, 2004, 2:04 AM
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hahahah yeah sounds like a good idea but is there anyone that does know the physics and how it truely effects the durability and strength of the webbing?
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climber_osu
Sep 2, 2004, 2:27 AM
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I wouldent use my slackline webbing for climbing but...I use my jeep as one side. Webbing is cheap.
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korporal
Sep 2, 2004, 3:14 AM
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This has been discussed a few times:
Here
and Here
Disclaimer: I have NEVER slacklined.
The way I see it is that you will put huge amounts of stress on the webbing that you use in a slackline. The reason being angle vectors. Think about the angle in climbing anchors. The higher the angle the higher the force on the anchors. Slacklines have angles that are at least 150 degress. In climbing anchors depending on who you ask 60-90 degress is the highest angle that is aceptable. Angle vectors are exponentional so the forces get high quickly.
At a later point in a different post I will figure out the forces that are put onto the line. I tried tonight but I came across some rather big stumbling blocks. I am tired and have gotten frustrated. Look for a post in the future.
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cgailey
Sep 2, 2004, 3:15 AM
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Here are the physics of it:
Tightening a slack line puts stress on the webbing, and walking that line/leaving it up adds the issues of weathering, dirt, etc, . All of this weakens the material...thus adding to the possibility of failure.
Webbing = ~ $.30 per foot
Your life =.....
You make the choice!
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petsfed
Sep 2, 2004, 4:20 AM
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Webbing, definitely, is dead. Its stretched considerably and potentially nonuniformly. As for carabiners, ditto. They may be loaded to over half their breaking strength for long periods of time. I'm okay with stressing my climbing gear to its breaking point for short periods of time, but long term fatigue like from slacking would introduce a variable I don't want to worry about.
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slacklinejoe
Sep 2, 2004, 5:05 AM
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Ditto on never, EVER using slackline webbing for climbing. It puts a major stress on it and you'll find that it stretches it to the point that it no longer has that stretchy give to it anymore. It's that elongation that keeps you alive when you fall as it disipates the energy over a longer period of time and limits to max shock load (I'd go into more detail but frankly I'm not qualified for the physics as it gets over my head in a hurry when I have to start showing formulas ect). Basically, ever wonder why you don't lead climb on a static rope?
Biner wise, I've contacted several of the manufactuers and while most decided not to make an "official" statement on slackline use, all of them said it'd certainly not a good thing and strongly discouraged reuse for climbing later. It comes down to sustaine loads that are high enough to cause permanant damage plus other topics like potentially cross loading in scenarios such as using 2 biners in a clove hitch (which is standard practice).
Don't be cheap on your climbing gear, dedicate a few biners and your webbing. Slacklines DO break over time.... I'd rather not see one pop on anchor lines.
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johnson6102002
Sep 2, 2004, 1:20 PM
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thanks alot for everyones help now i will deffinitly not use it for climbing also.
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