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rtsteed
Sep 7, 2011, 6:09 AM
Post #1 of 18
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I am starting to build my rack and from what I understand most people don't pay full retail for their gear, so my question is how do you get discounts and deals? I am able to get a 10% discount from the local stores but that really only takes care of tax. I am buying gear a little at a time to minimize the sticker shock but when it comes time to start buying cams I can't afford to pay full retail for a #4 or #5. I am trying to find odd jobs so I will have extra cash on hand for this project but like everyone else is finding out jobs are hard to come by right now.
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coastal_climber
Sep 7, 2011, 10:13 AM
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make friends/sleep with retail store employees
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Rudmin
Sep 7, 2011, 12:18 PM
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Spadout is your friend. Only buy if it is 20% or more off of retail and has free shipping and is from out of state so there's no sales tax. That or cruise MountainProject for the used version.
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surfstar
Sep 7, 2011, 4:16 PM
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Registered: May 31, 2011
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PATIENCE!
Wait for sales. 20% off MINIMUM!
Need cams?
http://www.backcountry.com/...lot-c4-package-0.5-3
~$46/ea is pretty good for c4s b/c people sell them used for that. Buy new at used prices, then if you don't like/need something, you can sell it and break even.
DON'T get the newest/latest gear
I picked up Tech Friends on closeout this spring for $23-40/cam. These were marked down even more for Memorial Day Sale (when I bought mine):
http://gearx.com/...riends-set-of-3.html
http://gearx.com/...riends-set-of-4.html
but are still a good deal (maybe email them and see if you bought 7 cams, if they'd come down another 10-20%)
Signup for the deal flyer at sierratradingpost.com and you'll get emailed coupons. When you get 25-35% off plus free shipping, stock up. They have a full set of OP nuts that will go as low as $58 with a good coupon. I bought a $230 rope from them for $105 recently. Others were as low as $85 with that same coupon.
Nylon slings at 20% off are MUCH cheaper than skinny ones and will last longer. Can't/won't notice much weight difference, its more of a bulk thing. Even cheaper is tying your own.
In addition to spadout, http://www.mountainproject.com/DirtbagDeals
Do you really need a #4 or #5 c4 when starting out? Climbs in that size range are not fun usually. Many times there are other smaller features that accept pro within or next to that crack.
That's enough for now, I need to save some of the deals for myself ;)
I may be a new climber, but I've been an honary Jew for years. I currently have 17 cams on my rack and paid an average of $34/cam NEW -- mastercams 0-3, Tech Friends 1.25-4 and .75-2 c4s.
(This post was edited by surfstar on Sep 7, 2011, 4:25 PM)
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jeepnphreak
Sep 7, 2011, 8:03 PM
Post #6 of 18
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Registered: Jul 29, 2008
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Like mentioned wait untill the sales are on. If you wait you can get some really good deals. I just found cams 40% off form a co that is going out of busness.
Find a friend that has gear and climb with them but supply beer or somthing. when the deal come about then get a piece of gear and offer to use that when racking up for the day. It will show your friend that you are working on a rack and are willing to help out with your own gear.
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tolman_paul
Sep 7, 2011, 9:24 PM
Post #7 of 18
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Just remember that a rack is typical built over several years, heck 25 years later I'm still adding stuff to my rack 
Unless you are going to be doing roped soloing or all your partners are sport climbers, you shouldn't have to get a full rack right off the bat, just look at supplimenting what your partner(s) have. A set of nuts, a set of hexs (forget the smaller ones) and about 1/2 dozen cams will cover you for alot of climbs.
I also agree on the larger cams, I've only used my #4 camalot a few times, more often than not I don't rack it up as it's too big and heavy to carry if you know you won't place it. I still haven't purchased a #5, and will wait until I plan on doing a route that I know it'll be essential for.
I'd say for camlot sizing, a .5, .75, 1, 2 and 3 would be a good starting point, then look at a couple of smaller units, then eventually look at doubling up.
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pdpcardsfan
Sep 8, 2011, 4:42 AM
Post #9 of 18
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Registered: Dec 7, 2009
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definately check online sites. i got my cams from mountaingear.com at 30% off, free shipping, and no tax. timing is everything tho in catching a good sale.
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rtsteed
Sep 9, 2011, 6:12 AM
Post #10 of 18
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Registered: Mar 3, 2008
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I went ahead and stopped by the local outdoor store and picked up #4-10 hexes plus I already had #3-5. My next step is to buy a set of stoppers and small C4's.
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bearbreeder
Sep 9, 2011, 3:53 PM
Post #11 of 18
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
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everyone i know who bought hexes when they started stopped using them when they got cams except for alpine ...
i usually recommend people buy nuts, camalots .5-3, then microcams in that order ... in squamish anyways
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Kartessa
Sep 10, 2011, 4:18 AM
Post #12 of 18
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Registered: Nov 18, 2008
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bearbreeder wrote: everyone i know who bought hexes when they started stopped using them when they got cams except for alpine ... i usually recommend people buy nuts, camalots .5-3, then microcams in that order ... in squamish anyways
Around here it's almost the opposite. A lot of people try to start by buying a bunch of cams and end up learning that they're the least reliable pro in the local rock and start rockin' the hexes.
More Cowbell!
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jjones16
Sep 13, 2011, 3:11 AM
Post #13 of 18
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Registered: Aug 2, 2010
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Rudmin wrote: Spadout is your friend. Only buy if it is 20% or more off of retail and has free shipping and is from out of state so there's no sales tax. That or cruise MountainProject for the used version.
+1 for Spadout. I've found some superterrific deals on the interweb there.
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rtsteed
Sep 13, 2011, 4:37 AM
Post #14 of 18
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OK, I picked up a set of BD stoppers 4-13 the other day. I really like the #4. I borrowed my friends BD C4's and I really preferred the stoppers in the small cracks. The stoppers just seemed to fit better than cams. Is it odd to trust passive pro more than active?
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jjones16
Sep 13, 2011, 1:35 PM
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Registered: Aug 2, 2010
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No, it's not odd. Every piece has different placements. Nuts work best for cracks that constrict downward and outward. Tricams and hexes are designed to work best in horizontals (although they can be used vertically too). A lot of new trad climbers, myself included, rely on active pro too much. The key is to get on routes that you feel will give you adequate stances to both place and set your gear. Other basics like carrying extendable draws are important too. No one becomes a proficient trad leader overnight. Looking at a placement and being able to pull the correct piece off your rack the first time, placing it, setting it, extending it and clipping into it in minimal time takes a shitload of practice. Don't worry about grades, hop on routes where you can safely gain the most experience making solid placements. As for buying the specialty stuff, these guys are right; you'll most likely be learning on 5.5,5.6, and 5.7 routes. Rarely will you find that you must have a large cam or a micro piece in order to protect safely. As you get better, you'll start doing tougher routes and occasionally you'll find beta that recommends a large or micro piece; that's when you go get it. I recommend getting BD camalots from .5 to 3, the 4-13 nut set which you have, and a small hex an tricam just to practice placing them on the ground. Most easy single pitch trad routes will protect well with that light rack. If you don't already have extra single and double length slings, a few extra lockers and non-lockers, pick some up. I learned the hard way about rope drag on wandering routes. There's a shitload more that's not covered here including anchors, fall factor, and rappelling. If you've led a few routes hopefully you have that stuff down. Make sure your second can get your costly gear out. Everyone that replied gave you great advice; particularly the bit about sleeping with someone in retail. Be safe and have fun.
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scrapedape
Sep 13, 2011, 2:43 PM
Post #16 of 18
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jjones16 wrote: Tricams and hexes are designed to work best in horizontals
That's a questionable claim.
I would say, and I think most people would agree, that hexes work best in the same sorts of placements as nuts: those with constrictions that tend to hold the hex up, and to hold it in. Sometimes they can work in a horizontal, but things better be just right.
Tricams do work very well in horizontals, but I am not sure that is where they work "best." Solution pockets are arguably where tricams work best, both in the sense that it is the most secure placement for a tricam, and also that tricams may be the only pieces that will fit there.
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Rudmin
Sep 13, 2011, 3:38 PM
Post #17 of 18
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Registered: Mar 29, 2009
Posts: 606
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I would say skip the #3 if you are starting on a budget. It's heavier, expensiver, and not as often needed as a #1 or #2 or #.75.
If you want some cheap larger stoppers, try tying monkey fists on cord or static line. Just make sure that they are really tight so they don't deform a lot. As I go around, I clip each wrap to a harness and bounce with body weight as I'm cinching it tight. Sometimes you come across a perfect placement where there is a huge opening behind a crack and it doesn't really matter what you throw back there as long as it's big enough not to go through and it's strong enough. That's where big stoppers/hexes or knotted cords are really handy I think.
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