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mojomonkey
Feb 20, 2007, 6:45 PM
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I plan to be in the St George area the first week of September and would like to get some climbing in. I will mostly be in Zion/Bryce for hiking, cycling, ..., but do want to climb in the area. I will be there with my brother, who has climbed only half a dozen times. I am looking for a fun area to spend a day at on the easier side. I would love to take him up an easier multipitch climb, either sport or trad. Most of my trad climbing has been in the Gunks, on 5.5s and below. on Sport, I think he could handle up to ~5.7 or so comfortably for multiple pitches.
Top roping is alright too, but we'd boht like to give him a taste of multipitch. I ordered a guide for Utah, but looking around online it looks like Zion itself is out (either too hard or aid). Snow Canyon sounded like a possibility.
Any suggestions?
(This post was edited by mojomonkey on Feb 20, 2007, 7:07 PM)
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treyfrancisclimbs
Feb 20, 2007, 7:36 PM
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I am sure someone might have some special places that are out of the heat, but St. George in Sept might melt the skin off your fingers.
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petsfed
Feb 20, 2007, 7:51 PM
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Pick up the guide for the St. George Area and look for north facing cliffs. Also, look into the limestone in the Utah Hills area. Also, don't sell yourself short, there are 5.10s at Chuckawalla wall that are very similar in style and difficulty to the roofy 5.5s at the Gunks. That said, it will be way too hot on the sandstone there. You might try the prophecy wall, but it might also be too hot in the afternoons. Most all of the trad around St. George will be far too hot in september.
Do remember though that sport climbing is a whole other kettle of fish from trad. Your brother could probably struggle up some of the juggy 5.10s out there. You don't really know huge jugs until you've pulled on a sandstone bucket.
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mojomonkey
Mar 24, 2007, 3:52 PM
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It looks like we are going to delay a little for better temperatures. Would waiting a month until October be sufficient?
Anyone have any suggestions if we go then? I have the Falcon guide for "Rock Climbing Utah" and would prefer not to buy another book since this may be my only trip out there. Is it worth picking up the St George specific guide for one day of climbing?
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mped
Apr 8, 2009, 9:22 PM
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There is a place called Veyo/Crawdad Canyon which is a private property climbing spot. It's north of Saint George about 30 mins and has a really unique atmosphere. Basalt climbing with a pool and stream that runs through the park. cool-off if it gets too hot. Plenty of shaded climbing + junk food/bathrooms if you're into that kind of thing. I also remember chairs at the bottom of certain climbs and plaques at the base of climbs with the rating, but it's been a while since I've been.
Late September/October are good to climb. A warm front can still heat up really good if you're right in Saint George (Chuckwalla, Blackrock, Turtle Wall, Snow Canyon, Green Valley Gap, etc). The benefit of the guidebook is it will tell you what walls are shaded/sunny and where to climb when temps aren't friendly.
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mojomonkey
Apr 9, 2009, 1:30 AM
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mped wrote: There is a place called Veyo/Crawdad Canyon which is a private property climbing spot. It's north of Saint George about 30 mins and has a really unique atmosphere. Basalt climbing with a pool and stream that runs through the park. cool-off if it gets too hot. Plenty of shaded climbing + junk food/bathrooms if you're into that kind of thing. I also remember chairs at the bottom of certain climbs and plaques at the base of climbs with the rating, but it's been a while since I've been. Late September/October are good to climb. A warm front can still heat up really good if you're right in Saint George (Chuckwalla, Blackrock, Turtle Wall, Snow Canyon, Green Valley Gap, etc). The benefit of the guidebook is it will tell you what walls are shaded/sunny and where to climb when temps aren't friendly.
Thanks... but I posted that over 2 years ago :)
We ended up going in April instead, with climbing in Zion as well as a day in Snow Canyon. Both were great.
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