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psecody


Feb 27, 2009, 4:56 PM
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Getting Back in Shape
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So I went to the gym and climbed yesterday for the first time since about May.... I got my but kicked by some really easy routes and burned out so quick. Last year my roommates all rock climbed so we would go one or two times a week but this year nobody can go because of work or just doesn't want to go so I haven't been. But yesterday I decided that I'm just going to start bouldering more so that during the summer I'll be ready to climb with my friends from last year and be able to keep up atleast.

My problem is I live about an hour from the nearest gym and about 30 minutes from the nearest outdoor place and I work almost everyday and go to school so I can't go often (if I get to go once a week that will be amazing) but is there any kind of exercises I could do at home to build up strength and endurance to where when I actually go climb I can climb for longer than 45 minutes. (I know the best way to get better is to climb but I'm limited on how much I can go so I was looking for something that may help out on days that I can't go climbing)

Thanks I appreciate any thoughts on this.


sidepull


Feb 27, 2009, 5:16 PM
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I've been in a similar situation for about 5 years now. In year 2 I built a small climbing wall and committed to doing a lot of cross training. I've been able to maintain my climbing fitness and even improve it before road trips. It's a compromise, but it's better than not climbing and, over time, cheaper than driving an hour and then paying for entrance.


psecody


Feb 27, 2009, 5:28 PM
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yeah I wanted to do that last summer and me and my friend had the supplies to do it but at the moment I live at the dorms at my college so I really can't build anything around here, probably could have last year but this year this place is more strict than a prison.


granite_grrl


Feb 27, 2009, 5:29 PM
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I was thinking that in order to really get and stay in shape for training you'd need to do some sort of climbing. If you can't get out then building your self a small wall would probobly be the best option.

But I'd like to address another issue. You say you don't have the time to drive an hour to go climbing. How many nights a week do you go to school? How many hours of home work do you have to do? I understand that if you're working and going to school at the same time you don't have a ton of time, but I bet you have more than you think. But you have to make climbing a priority.


rockforlife


Feb 27, 2009, 5:53 PM
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granite_grrl wrote:
I was thinking that in order to really get and stay in shape for training you'd need to do some sort of climbing. If you can't get out then building your self a small wall would probobly be the best option.

But I'd like to address another issue. You say you don't have the time to drive an hour to go climbing. How many nights a week do you go to school? How many hours of home work do you have to do? I understand that if you're working and going to school at the same time you don't have a ton of time, but I bet you have more than you think. But you have to make climbing a priority.


This is what is comes down to, if you really want to get good at something you will.

You can do things like pull ups but don't over do it. maybe a couple a day, also i would come up with some sort of "core" work out. Like doing planks and side planks, leg lifts, and hindu squats are great for legs. I dont do any but i hear a lot of climbers talk about yoga, you could give it a try.

But in the end you just need to make time to climb...but i have this or that or a girl friend....to bad for you then.


blurricus


Feb 27, 2009, 5:56 PM
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However many hours you work in a day: run that many miles 3 times a week.
However old you are: do that many push-ups everytime you enter your dorm room.
However many credits you're taking: do that many pull-ups everytime you walk under a doorway.
However many friends you have on Facebook (or some other social network): do that many ab excercises daily.
Don't forget yoga, and a normal weight routine to go along with this. Also, don't forget that these are just additional to your normal routine, meaning you can't skip out on the cardio just because you're running three days a week. Think "above and beyond!"
Then, find any building and/or pole around you that you can climb. Do plenty of buildering. Demand your dorm let you put a campus board in (explain to them that you live on a campus, and therefore, a campus board seems perfectly normal). Finally, pour sugar in everyone's gas tanks.


bill413


Feb 27, 2009, 6:19 PM
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Also, when you do get to the gym, try & hook up with someone or some group. That way, you'll have social motivation to get there on some sort of schedule.


fresh


Feb 27, 2009, 6:56 PM
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find a different sport. honestly. you're gonna bore the shit out of yourself trying to contrive ways to stay in shape for climbing. there's more to life. you got to get out there and live it. be somebody.

woah, lost myself there. but if you find another sport that you like/love doing, you'll stay in shape reasonably well and will probably enjoy yourself a lot more. plus, crosstraining generally reduces the plateau effect. who knows, if you get back to climbing, after a month of the crappy readjustment period you might start crushing because you built a foundation of fitness.


(This post was edited by fresh on Feb 27, 2009, 6:59 PM)


swoopee


Feb 27, 2009, 9:07 PM
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fresh wrote:
find a different sport. honestly. you're gonna bore the shit out of yourself trying to contrive ways to stay in shape for climbing. there's more to life. you got to get out there and live it. be somebody.

woah, lost myself there. but if you find another sport that you like/love doing, you'll stay in shape reasonably well and will probably enjoy yourself a lot more. plus, crosstraining generally reduces the plateau effect. who knows, if you get back to climbing, after a month of the crappy readjustment period you might start crushing because you built a foundation of fitness.

Sacrilege


aerili


Feb 27, 2009, 11:40 PM
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blurricus wrote:
However many hours you work in a day: run that many miles 3 times a week.
However old you are: do that many push-ups everytime you enter your dorm room.
However many credits you're taking: do that many pull-ups everytime you walk under a doorway.
However many friends you have on Facebook (or some other social network): do that many ab excercises daily.

Although I know you meant well, blurricus, I can't think of a more random way to plan a fitness program. Using such number correlations just makes no sense to develop a plan that does anything specific.


In reply to:
Don't forget yoga

Also, just fyi to all, yoga is, believe it or not, totally unnecessary to be able to climb well. It may help one out in certain ways, but climbers have been crushing for years long before yoga became a big fad.

Sorry, dude, I am not picking on you, I am just writing facts wrt your comment. Although I agree that general fitness can't hurt his prospects for climbing better later on, one has to formulate it properly in each individual case.


Grizvok


Feb 28, 2009, 8:15 AM
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aerili wrote:
blurricus wrote:
However many hours you work in a day: run that many miles 3 times a week.
However old you are: do that many push-ups everytime you enter your dorm room.
However many credits you're taking: do that many pull-ups everytime you walk under a doorway.
However many friends you have on Facebook (or some other social network): do that many ab excercises daily.

Although I know you meant well, blurricus, I can't think of a more random way to plan a fitness program. Using such number correlations just makes no sense to develop a plan that does anything specific.


In reply to:
Don't forget yoga

Also, just fyi to all, yoga is, believe it or not, totally unnecessary to be able to climb well. It may help one out in certain ways, but climbers have been crushing for years long before yoga became a big fad.

Sorry, dude, I am not picking on you, I am just writing facts wrt your comment. Although I agree that general fitness can't hurt his prospects for climbing better later on, one has to formulate it properly in each individual case.

It's a man thing. I know EXACTLY down to the fucking T what that plan means and so does every other guy in the world.


blurricus


Feb 28, 2009, 4:44 PM
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The randomness of my program is simple:
"The more you sweat in times of peace, the less you bleed in times of war." You may think this doesn't address the randomness, but it does quite plainly.
Also, I'm sure you could find a more random way to plan a fitness program.

As to the yoga being totally unnecessary to climbing...I guess I don't know where to start with that. The "yoga became a big fad" is also a little strange of a thing to say about a form of life that is over 3000 years old, but I see where your concern is. I understand that some people don't realize that yoga is beneficial to every walk of life. Not just your hatha yoga, but the secret of being supple. I would suggest yoga no matter what the op was asking. Could have been asking about how to properly fry fish, and I would have written the same koan and suggested the same yoga. I often

As to tailoring something individually to the particular: yes. But that's the same thing that everyone can be told. Why don't you write a "best practice" article? Everytime somebody asks a simple question like this, I read through all the posts and do everything. It's refreshing. It's something that helps a lot. My training is not sporatic or insane. It is vary tailored to variety and encompassing works from many different authors. But I will tell you what I honestly believe is the most important workouts for everyone (that can be done everywhere):
Push-ups
Pull-ups
Abs
Run
Martial Arts/Yoga


sungam


Feb 28, 2009, 5:47 PM
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F*ck running. The only thing more boring then going for a run or "jog" is going for a damn walk. Unless it's in the mountains and more or less alone.
Although I agree completely with GG up there, that climbing has to become a priority (and I mean over going out and drinking, over wasting time on the net, over spending time with your lady friend- Your callender should be planned around your climbing, not the other way around.).
Hell you could even cut down on spending and lose some work hours.
If you really can't get out, then perhaps light use of a fingerboard (extremely light at first. Jumping straight at it would be begging for tendon issues) could be in order.
And while pull-ups aren't a godsend for training for climbing, throwing those into your daily workout, along with frenchies and attempted levers, couldn't hurt.


[edit to add] I personally far prefer rowing, swimming, or biking to running. In that order. I find that if you hold the rowing bar with and open hand grip you can actually get a fair forearm pump in 15ks...


(This post was edited by sungam on Feb 28, 2009, 7:28 PM)


Rufsen


Feb 28, 2009, 7:22 PM
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sungam wrote:
F*ck running. The only thing more boring then going for a run or "jog" is going for a damn walk. Unless it's in the mountains and more or less alone.
Although I agree completely with GG up there, that climbing has to become a priority (and I mean over going out and drinking, over wasting time on the net, over spending time with your lady friend- Your callender should be planned around your climbing, not the other way around.).
Hell you could even cut down on spending and lose some work hours.
If you really can't get out, then perhaps light use of a fingerboard (extremely light at first. Jumping straight at it would be begging for tendon issues) could be in order.
And while pull-ups aren't a godsend for training for climbing, throwing those into your daily workout, along with frenchies and attempted levers, couldn't hurt.

This seems like the best suggestion so far. Fingerboarding and some strengthtraining on the weekdays, and get out on the rocks on weekends.

It's not great, but it's better than nothing.


sidepull


Feb 28, 2009, 7:34 PM
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sungam wrote:
I personally far prefer rowing, swimming, or biking to running. In that order. I find that if you hold the rowing bar with and open hand grip you can actually get a fair forearm pump in 15ks...

Agreed!


aerili


Mar 1, 2009, 7:39 PM
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Grizvok wrote:
It's a man thing. I know EXACTLY down to the fucking T what that plan means and so does every other guy in the world.

Every guy on earth who is a legitimate strength coach and trains actual athletes for a living (and the research that makes up the foundation of what they base their work on) would not agree with you and blurricus at all. How do I know this? Because what I know I learned from them.



blurricus wrote:
The "yoga became a big fad" is also a little strange of a thing to say about a form of life that is over 3000 years old

As a discipline to the yogis in India, of course yoga is not a "big fad." To everyday Westerners who do it now because it's a group exercise offering or because they read/see/hear umpteen amounts of media coverage on it and its promotion as a way of health, it is.

If you worked in the fitness and wellness field as a professional for a while, you would see this is exactly the case. And eventually it will fade in popularity and be replaced by something else everyone wants to do. This is not to say it won't continue in the areas of the world where it has its roots and is pursued for other reasons than "mind body fitness" alone.


blurricus


Mar 2, 2009, 3:21 PM
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aerili wrote:
Every guy on earth who is a legitimate strength coach and trains actual athletes for a living (and the research that makes up the foundation of what they base their work on) would not agree with you and blurricus at all. How do I know this? Because what I know I learned from them.
While that is true, they would also tell you that every little bit helps, and these are an especially good way to build and improve muscle memory. I understand your point, but it is also the case that there is a difference between being good at what you do, and being a god at what you do. But, the main part of this part of training is motivation and drive. The numbers are completely arbitrary and random, but it helps a person's confidence in great ways (see: mental training). This is not a solution to a problem, this is a suggestion for a suppliment. If one cannot climb, and wants to get back in shape, this is a good way to do it that can be done ANYWHERE, without weights, without equipment.

In reply to:
If you worked in the fitness and wellness field as a professional for a while, you would see this is exactly the case. And eventually it will fade in popularity and be replaced by something else everyone wants to do. This is not to say it won't continue in the areas of the world where it has its roots and is pursued for other reasons than "mind body fitness" alone.

I understand your frustration with the way the yoga scene is currently, I assure you, I share your frustration for different reasons (I believe in a master-student relationship, not a large classroom learning). But Yoga has been practiced by Westerners for plenty of time. It was big in the 50's, 60's, and 70's. Sadly, I think your perception on its fading out has already happened, and it is being replaced by pilates. However, you cannot discredit it's benefits based on the fact that Middle-Aged Mothers Annonymous supports it.

Yes, climbers have been climbing long before they started integrating yoga. But the benefits of its improvement to flexibility, breathing, strength, balance, and generally mindset (see: complete yoga, not just yoga at a place like Gold's Gym) cannot be ignored. But, I feel as though this should be an entirely other thread altogether, where as this is getting rather off-topic.

To summarize, I stated a work-out routine that I had used in the past to improve my climbing when I was in the middle of a forest, with no weights around. In 2 quick months, I went from only rapeling (never being able to do even a 5.6) to climbing 5.9's. It's a good program when you don't have a gym around, don't have a boulder to go to, don't even have access to weights. Though, I've also been seeing advertisements for this "Monkey Gym" workout place that uses only bodyweight to train. I'm interested in that too.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate your constant advice Aerili. It has been beneficial. But I have been in a situation similar to this, and that is what got me through. I'm speaking from experience, not from professionalism.


sidepull


Mar 2, 2009, 4:22 PM
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aerili wrote:
And eventually it will fade in popularity and be replaced by something else everyone wants to do. This is not to say it won't continue in the areas of the world where it has its roots and is pursued for other reasons than "mind body fitness" alone.

Huh? So I have to put my yoga mat with my mini trampoline and thong leotard from my aerobics days?


Partner angry


Mar 3, 2009, 1:46 AM
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A quick thought about yoga.

I agree with aereli in that it isn't necessary. I like it and encourage ALL climbers who ask my opinion to do it. Here's why.

- I don't stretch enough. I've spent probably 7 minutes in the last 2 years stretching (away from yoga). I'm probably completely average in this. I don't know anyone who stretches. If you were able to put yourself through a series of stretches every day and keep up the routine, yoga would be totally unnecessary.

I don't buy the breathing, relaxation, or mental aspect. These come to those who are serious about their chosen sport. I also think they're specific. I've certainly seen the yoga masters wig out on route, tense up, and hyperventilate. I'm not impressed.

Still, it's a fun and engaging way to get a little stretching done, that's worth something to me.


(This post was edited by angry on Mar 3, 2009, 1:47 AM)


aerili


Mar 3, 2009, 6:44 AM
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sidepull wrote:
aerili wrote:
And eventually it will fade in popularity and be replaced by something else everyone wants to do. This is not to say it won't continue in the areas of the world where it has its roots and is pursued for other reasons than "mind body fitness" alone.

Huh? So I have to put my yoga mat with my mini trampoline and thong leotard from my aerobics days?

I won't be the one to make you, but in 20 years, when you start feeling left out of other stuff, you might think about it. But by then, your mini-trampoline should be back in vogue, so you won't lose any storage space.


(OMG, I was at a fitness trade show about 7 or 8 years ago and some company had tried to jump the 30 year gun prematurely by "re-introducing" mini-tramps as exercise, complete with hired male and female Adonises doing a choreographed class on them.

Also, one time, Schwinn paid me to ride their bikes at a trade show for 3-4 hours a day during an neverending cycling class.... Is that easiest money ever or hardest money ever???)


Partner angry


Mar 3, 2009, 7:03 AM
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aerili wrote:
Also, one time, Schwinn paid me to ride their bikes at a trade show for 3-4 hours a day during an neverending cycling class.... Is that easiest money ever or hardest money ever???)

Make it 10 hours at heavy resistance with drunk girls grabbing your ass and you've got my job.


sungam


Mar 3, 2009, 7:49 AM
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angry wrote:
aerili wrote:
Also, one time, Schwinn paid me to ride their bikes at a trade show for 3-4 hours a day during an neverending cycling class.... Is that easiest money ever or hardest money ever???)

Make it 10 hours at heavy resistance with drunk girls grabbing your ass and you've got my job.
Dude, I would PAY to have chicks grab my ass etc. while I was working out. Would make gym time go a lot quicker on the days that blackford quarry is seeping.


blurricus


Mar 3, 2009, 2:32 PM
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angry wrote:
aerili wrote:
Also, one time, Schwinn paid me to ride their bikes at a trade show for 3-4 hours a day during an neverending cycling class.... Is that easiest money ever or hardest money ever???)

Make it 10 hours at heavy resistance with drunk girls grabbing your ass and you've got my job.

Wait, what is it you do? Do you work at a bar where the bottles are 10 liters instead of 1 or 1.75?


sungam


Mar 3, 2009, 6:15 PM
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blurricus wrote:
angry wrote:
aerili wrote:
Also, one time, Schwinn paid me to ride their bikes at a trade show for 3-4 hours a day during an neverending cycling class.... Is that easiest money ever or hardest money ever???)

Make it 10 hours at heavy resistance with drunk girls grabbing your ass and you've got my job.

Wait, what is it you do? Do you work at a bar where the bottles are 10 liters instead of 1 or 1.75?
He drives a pedicab.


jhernand


Mar 3, 2009, 6:43 PM
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psecody wrote:
yeah I wanted to do that last summer and me and my friend had the supplies to do it but at the moment I live at the dorms at my college so I really can't build anything around here, probably could have last year but this year this place is more strict than a prison.

do a search for Dorm Gym and youll get a few pix... it can be done.

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