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csgambill
Feb 12, 2005, 11:34 PM
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Hey all. I really want to start getting into Big Wall climbing. It's been one of my goals since I got into climbing. What location would some of you more experienced big wallers suggest someone start out at? No matter where I go, I'll definitely get someone with more experience to go with me. I'm just interested in what areas you'd think would make for a good intro to big walls. Thx!
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irockclimbtoo
Feb 13, 2005, 3:18 AM
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ab
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pt
Feb 13, 2005, 3:50 AM
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Get your systems dialed at your local crag. One or two pitch stuff with roofs and traverses would be ideal. Learn how to jumar and clean any type of terrain - this is trickier than it sounds. Learn how to haul. You, of course, allready know how to place tricky gear placements or you wouldn't be considering aid, right? Once you have everything totally worked out, go find a wall! Pick something that your mind can comprehend getting up in one or two days (probably not el cap). If you know the systems of aiding it's just mental fortitude to carry through with the Wall. Try Zion for smaller but classic aid routes, then head for the ditch.
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farrgo
Mar 2, 2005, 7:09 PM
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Chris Macnamara (SP?) on supertopos, said he dialed his system on a big tree in his backyard. i only did a few real pitches of aid climbing and went for it, although it was a mostly free route and we didn't haul (half dome rr). also, i went into a gym an aided off lead bolts, aided across the rafters in my garage, etc. anything to get the system dialed in your head, so that you can alleviate some of the clusterfucks that you will experience.
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t-dog
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Mar 2, 2005, 7:19 PM
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try to find some 5.12-5.13 cracks around where you live that you can practice aiding and all that good stuff on. Then just head for the Valley, there are plenty of smaller walls to get started on. have fun!!!!
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islandclimber
Mar 2, 2005, 7:55 PM
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I wouls start at Squamish, there are some nice grade V walls there, U wall and uncle's Bens are good examples. Fine routes, not very busy and less commitment than yosemite walls.
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epic_ed
Mar 2, 2005, 9:32 PM
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epic_ed moved this thread from Trad Climbing to Aid Climbing.
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tenesmus
Mar 2, 2005, 10:33 PM
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For a start, move far away from Chicago!!
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justsendingits
Mar 2, 2005, 10:42 PM
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Chris, I would be happy to show u what I know about big walls for a small fee, like er... FOOD!
I just got back from an expedition so I am wayyy over extended $$$$
I should be back in Chicago by Monday.
I have ALL the gear we need.
We won't climb, just work on the important stuff like how 2 clean traverse, jug, haul and basic ropework.
It's best to 100+ pitches of multipitch first, but we could whittle that down a little with lot's of practice in tree's,garage whatever.
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mikemachineco
Mar 3, 2005, 7:22 PM
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I really like the approach some friends took to learning how to big wall. They were already experienced climbers (trad, alpine, etc.) so on an extended road trip they committed to learning and perfecting their skills. They spent a lot of time on shorter routes and single pitch stuff to practice everything and decided to just be patient when they went on their first wall and to take an extra day or two if needed. Then, they did that same wall again after doing some other stuff to really get dialed on everything. I thought it was a pretty cool approach.
So, whether you go to Zion or Yos, just practice what you can at home and be patient when you get there. I know my friends' patience really paid off and they have become competent and efficient wall climbers.
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