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rockrat_co
Feb 14, 2005, 2:44 AM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2004
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I am not sure wether or not this is the right place to post this but i would like to share a short story of my experience from today. A friend and i spontaneously decided to go to the local crag. We set a time to meet there and we both actually show up as planned. After a coupple climbs he hops on a rout and gives it a go. This route was suposedly rated a 10d but i would definately consider it harder than the 11d i am currently working on. So he gives it his best, and comes down after multiple attempts. I decide that I really do not feel up to leading such a route at this time and choose to aid the bolted pitch. I begin up the wall with aiders, three draws, and a set of stoppers just in case. Anyways, because i only took three draws I was, more or less, leapfrogging them up the route. So I get to the third bolt, and notice that the next is a surprising ten feet higher. There was a seam almost too convienently branching up and off to the right. I choose to aid the seam using a set of stopper. I place the first piece, a questionable placement, a number 7 stopper i believe. Carefully i weight the piece, and it holds. At this point in time, I was down to only one quickdraw left and was contemplating wether or not to pull the last one off the bolt. I choose not to and stepped as high in the aider as i could. It still seemed the placement was going to hold my weight so i set a stopper as high up and to the right as I can. It was a stretch to eyeball the placement, but from where I stood I deemed it a bomber placement. I started to weight the stopper (a number 10) and the next thing i know I hear "pop" followed by another "pop" and then im staring right into my belayer's eyes. The placement poped out when i was weighting it. Because of the direction of my movement, and the previous placement that was not bomber, both stoppers were zippered out of the thin crack. I went about 20' down, and maby six feet to the left. Luckily my belayer was watching me and I left the bolt clipped. I dont know how i feel about that, I love falling but it is so amazing how you can think everything is okay, and maby unconsciously make a decision which will determine wether or not you will ever get to climb again. I know i will be out as soon as the weather permits back at the crag. I just thought I would share this story! Later, rockrat_co
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barefooter
Feb 14, 2005, 2:59 AM
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If you would have died today, where do you believe you would have gone?
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rockrat_co
Feb 14, 2005, 3:08 AM
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hmm... actually, i dont know, i couldnt tell ya!
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barefooter
Feb 14, 2005, 3:26 AM
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Well do you ever think about? When I've had close calls in my own life I always seam to find myself thinking about it.
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onsight_endorphines
Feb 14, 2005, 3:59 AM
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This may be an unwarranted opinion, but I choose not to think about where I will go after death. Not because I don't think it will be good, but because I feel that it's a waste of my time. When I do think about it, I usually come to the conclusion that when my brain shuts down, I will stop thinking and will cease to exist to myself. Others will just see the remains...yuk... I certainly do not waste any percentage of my life with religion. Up to this point, I know that the life I'm living now is what I have been given so far, and I want to make the most of it for myself and others. It's a great feeling!!! Sounds like a scary fall, it is truly amazing how quickly things can go sour. When you said "then I was staring into my belayer's eyes" I was like OMG :shock: !!!
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barefooter
Feb 14, 2005, 5:32 AM
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Yeah man, I gasped when you said you almost pulled that draw off of that bolt. I pictured myself doing something like that and I got that sinking feeling in my stomach. I'm glad you made the right decision on leaving that draw and you may want to look at it as a second chance. You have to realize that your own good sence is not always going to get you out of every situation and everyone is going to die eventually and no matter what you believe to be true while you're alive you most definately will know once you die. If you'd like to know the truth or have any questions just let me know, I'd like to share my faith with you.
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anykineclimb
Feb 14, 2005, 6:09 AM
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WHY where you only carrying three draws??? Thats just straight up RETARDED when I'm sure between the 2 of you, you had at least a dozen. Right? Risk is all part of the climbing game, just don't be so stupid to add unnecessary risk.
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rockrat_co
Feb 18, 2005, 3:39 AM
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In reply to: WHY where you only carrying three draws??? Thats just straight up RETARDED when I'm sure between the 2 of you, you had at least a dozen. Right? Risk is all part of the climbing game, just don't be so stupid to add unnecessary risk. well, yah, had total of 19, seven were at the top of the pitch, the whole pitch only had four bolts on it and once the third was clipped i deemed it safe to pull the first.. Just thought it would work, it did i guess.. Will probably be taking a coupple more with me next time! Later, rockrat_co
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slobmonster
Feb 18, 2005, 3:55 AM
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Interestingly, your post shares nothing with its title.
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rockrat_co
Feb 18, 2005, 4:15 AM
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In reply to: Interestingly, your post shares nothing with its title. Ahh, but i beg to disagree, a thought filled day at the crag (near that)...What happened influenced a train of thoughts!
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ryan112ryan
Feb 18, 2005, 4:42 AM
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In reply to: I certainly do not waste any percentage of my life with religion. Up to this point, I know that the life I'm living now is what I have been given so far, and I want to make the most of it for myself and others. It's a great feeling!!! most people go to church on sunday.......i mostly go climbing on sunday, im not religioius, is climbing my religion??? lol no im not obsesed :)
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onsight_endorphines
Feb 18, 2005, 12:37 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2004
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LOL Ryan...!!! Nice!! I'd love to be obsessed with climbing. I'm moving to the Boulder, CO area as quickly as I can...anyone out there need a really good EE?. I've got to get out of Houston...sick and tired of pulling plastic...
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jackhammer
Feb 18, 2005, 1:40 PM
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Registered: Dec 22, 2004
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Do me a favor and pack better next time. Three quick draws was not a smart move.
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