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slobmonster


Feb 18, 2005, 4:20 AM
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... hundreds of other sport crags where nobody gives a s---, including the land managers.
Jay, it's very likely that you have spent enough time at these crags to determine that this is indeed true. I respect this, and by all means understand that at some crags, 'permanent' draws are just the way things work.
However, don't think that the land managers don't (or won't) notice.
I didn't say that they don't notice that draws are left up. I said they don't care that draws are left up.
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Depending on the status of the land in question (wilderness?), "your" gear might, in fact, be considered abandoned. It is, literally, trash.
I doubt that that is true, but I'll keep it in mind at the next wilderness sport crag I visit.
Jay -- Obviously my mild flattery did nothing to smooth out the rough edges in our discourse. Of course (and perhaps you planned it this way, you crotchety oligarch) I respect your opinion, moreso because it's actually informed.

My point was that the land managers indeed DO care. Sometimes (and depending on location) quite a bit, enough so to actually consider prosecution. One good friend of mine was lucky enough to sneak out of a HUGE fine, and even got back his Bosch, after drilling a super-remote Wilderness crag in NH. He had left a pack with gear, a fixed line, and even a *camera* with photos in it that showed him mucho-psyched about his exploits making 3/8ths inch holes.

This is why we should all be so lucky to live in small, discrete New England communities... parenthetical, I know.

The point I might eventually make: keep the fixed gear as inobvious as possible. "Fixed" draws are antithetical to this.


yamama


Feb 18, 2005, 5:02 AM
Post #52 of 101 (10141 views)
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Well i'm sorry to hear you lost some gear. But what can i say if you don't want your stuff stolen take it with you! The only time i've taken gear was in the mid of winter in Ar... it was about to snow/rain the next day and i figured the draws (only two) would be messed up if i didn't. Not sure if the rain/snow would hurt them but hey they were there and i made it to the top... they were on the TR bolts.
Now i wouldn't take the draws if they were on all the bolts... this is in my opinion is a sign that somebody is working the climb and will be back later... The only thing i can think of is to leave a sign that says DON"T TAKE MY DRAWS/GEAR OR I'LL TAKE YOUR "NUTS"!

My 2 cents


jt512


Feb 18, 2005, 5:52 PM
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My point was that the land managers indeed DO care. Sometimes (and depending on location) quite a bit, enough so to actually consider prosecution. One good friend of mine was lucky enough to sneak out of a HUGE fine, and even got back his Bosch, after drilling a super-remote Wilderness crag in NH. He had left a pack with gear, a fixed line, and even a *camera* with photos in it that showed him mucho-psyched about his exploits making 3/8ths inch holes.

This is why we should all be so lucky to live in small, discrete New England communities... parenthetical, I know.

The point I might eventually make: keep the fixed gear as inobvious as possible. "Fixed" draws are antithetical to this.

Just because the land managers care in wilderness areas does not mean they do elsewhere. In my experience, they do not. Every sport crag I've been to (which are not in wilderness areas) have routes with project draws and/or permanent chain draws on them. This is the norm. The rangers are well aware of this and they do not object.

-Jay


abalch


Feb 18, 2005, 6:29 PM
Post #54 of 101 (10141 views)
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do any of you meatheads even read what has been posted before you? as JT said, get a fahking clue.
when will you pathetic wankers realize that taking draws off a route is stealing?? Snod, i hope you were joking, cause if not, you need to be taken out back and taught a lesson about respect.
If land ownership/impact is an issue, then don't leave hanging draws, otherwise they should be safe, it's just part of sport climbing culture to leave your draws up on your project. If you take them, you are STEALING, i thought we were above that s---, but obviously some of you are not, and that's pathetic.


So with that mindset your essentially saying that if you were walking across a parking lot, and there was a hundred dollar bill laying there, you wouldn't touch it? In the areas that i climb, unless the first ascentionist hung draws on the route, and nobody is working it, its fair game, (bail biners, quick links, nuts, cams whatever) If you walk off and leave it, its there for the taking. Maybe west coast ethic is different.....

West coast ethic doesn't have anything to do with it. Even more so for your example. Would you HONESTLY, if you knew someone had walked through that parking lot shortly before you, and dropped that 100 bucks, not make any attempt to catch up to that person and inquire if they dropped the money? Or, let's change your example. Go to a bar or a restaurant and look at any number of tables. You will see that people often will leave the money for the food/drinks, or as a tip, setting on the table. That money is setting somewhere it belongs, and the person that set it there trusted that only the person who it belonged to would pick it up. If you are caught taking money off of a table that isn't yours, I would love to see you try to explain to the management, or the cops, "well, sir, they had to know someone would take it. Leaving it laying there like that they obviously abandoned it.

Most people easily can tell when draws are on a route because someone bailed, and if the draws are on the route for a project. If you want to climb that route, and don't trust their draws, pull them and replace them as you come back down, don't just steal them.


abalch


Feb 18, 2005, 6:46 PM
Post #55 of 101 (10141 views)
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So with that mindset your essentially saying that if you were walking across a parking lot, and there was a hundred dollar bill laying there, you wouldn't touch it?

thanks for actually showing me how stupid i figured you were.

let's use your example to show you what you're talking about. so you're at a bar, some dude orders a bunch of drinks and lines em up, he takes one and then turns to talk to someone next to him, YOU would wander over and poach the 'booty'

you're not coming across 'lost' gear, you're coming across someone's draws, obviously they didn't have to bail, the entire route is equipped.

remind me not to climb anywhere near any of your local crags.

By your refrence the 'dude' at the bar is obviously 'working' the shots.....oh and don't climb at any of my local crags, but what about that hundred eh?



*EDIT* I'd like to apologize for whats afore mentioned in this post, let me rephrase my stance....if I know its a project i've seen the guy working on it or heard of it no i won't touch em, but i've i'm at my crags say 10 times in 2 weeks, never seen anybody on it and draws are there, they are there for the picking, if somebody askes about em n stuff, i'll give em back. but if the hang for a lenghy amount of time and nobodys working it, weren't put up by the first asentionist they are considered abandoned in my opinion.

OK, by that standard, if you pull draws you consider have been there too long, do you make any attempt to leave a note, or post something on the bulletin board at the local climbing shop, to let the person know that if they are missing draws off of their project to contact you and describe number, type, and route they were on in hopes of reuniting the person with their gear, or do you just automatically claim it as booty. Because, after all, that is what the OP is doing, is trying to find out if someone has pulled them off with the intent of returning them, or because they thought they were abondoned, or what. Just be honest with yourself and everyone else--if you don't actively make any attempt to let someone know that you might have their gear, aren't you essentially hiding the fact that you do have their gear, which is kind of the sort of guilt laden behavior that thieves do? If you fully admit where you got the gear, accepting the original owner finding out, and maybe requesting that gear back, it is a much more upstanding behavior, wouldn't you think?


Partner csgambill


Feb 18, 2005, 6:57 PM
Post #56 of 101 (10141 views)
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anyone who has posted a response saying that you should have been smarter, or not left them so long, or whatever, give your f---ing head a shake. seriously, welcome to climbing. it's f---ing noobs like you who have no understanding of the ethics of the sport.

Wow, do you leave your car and the front door of your house unlocked too? I bet you get a lot of things stolen from you. Look. I would never steal anything, ever, and think it's terrible that somebody else would. If I came upon a route that had a set of draws on it and wanted to climb the route. I'd remove the draws, only because I don't trust equipment when I don't know it's history. Then I'd hook them on a nearby treebranch, some place easily visible from the base of the route.

I guess I just live in an area where I have to watch my back and my gear a little bit more than you. If I leave something lying around, especially when it's expensive, I wouldn't expect to find it again.


yankeebama


Feb 18, 2005, 8:06 PM
Post #57 of 101 (10141 views)
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I have to second the previouse post. By leaving your gear up, you are asking people to either trust your equipement which you admittedly expose to rain/snow/harsh conditions or not climb the route. I don't know how it is best haddled but you do put people into an awkward situation.


bustloose


Feb 18, 2005, 8:38 PM
Post #58 of 101 (10141 views)
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dear me. i've had more productive discussions with my house plants.

what is it with you guys insisting on drawing parallel's to 'real life' situations. no, i don't leave my car unlocked, or my front door, no i don't leave my stereo on the front lawn (ok once, but man was that a good party). Crag Climbing does not equate to city living, on any level. there is a general belief among (apparantly) MOST climbers, that draws left on a route are project draws, leave em alone, brother is coming back to climb that route. if you don't feel comfortable climbing on someone's gear (why not, i can't help but wonder, they're just draws, i mean, you trust the guy who sunk the bolts, don't you?), then switch em out and then put em back when you're done... what a pain the ass you say? how insensitive of that bastard to make you do this? well then noob, just climb on them (here's a little tip, rain doesn't hurt aluminum...)

if you climb at an area where people take equipped draws, i feel sorry for you, and everyone else in that area, climbing is not supposed to be every man for himself. hell, if i find a belay device at the crag, i post a note up. but here's a thought, why don't you educate your peers? perhaps show them a picture of the Gallery in Red Rocks... i don't think i've ever had to put draws up at that crag, it's fantastic.

but please, for the love of Jim, end this stupidity of saying "serves em right" "i'd take em and hang em on a tree" "BOOOOOTY"

project draws are not booty. period. end of sentence. spread the word.


crag_shwagger


Feb 18, 2005, 9:01 PM
Post #59 of 101 (10141 views)
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Good call, no difference from this and littering.


icarus_burned


Feb 18, 2005, 9:08 PM
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rain/snow/general exposure does however hurt nylon and various other materials.


md3


Feb 18, 2005, 10:21 PM
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Can someone please fill me in on when and how sport climbers obtained the right to leave fixed quick draws on public land? Did this right come along with a revocation of the minimum impact obligation to camouflage bolts and anchors? Is it OK now to start using day glow hangers to make route finding and identification easier? Have all of the concerns and controversies over bolting been resolved in favor of climbers? Are there really so few of us in the climbing community who dislike the appearance of walls full of hanging draws that its become acceptable to install permanent chain draws wherever they are convenient?


jt512


Feb 18, 2005, 10:37 PM
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Are there really so few of us in the climbing community who dislike the appearance of walls full of hanging draws that its become acceptable to install permanent chain draws wherever they are convenient?

Yeah, in the sport climbing community. Here, let's make a deal: we won't hang draws all over the wilderness, and you won't complain about draws at sport crags that you never visit.

-Jay


jt512


Feb 18, 2005, 10:44 PM
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but here's a thought, why don't you educate your peers? perhaps show them a picture of the Gallery in Red Rocks...

Yo, Peers. Clue up....

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=13477

-Jay


youngphil


Feb 18, 2005, 11:49 PM
Post #64 of 101 (10141 views)
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i know i would never leave a cam on a trad climb i was working on...think about that...trad climbers dont have the option of leaving gear on routes...unless there rich and can fork over 60 bucks for every piece of gear they want to leave hanging so they can come back and work on their route...dont do it...and if you do...you should think of it more like donating to the wall...and not expect to get it back...cause there are people out there that will take it...its not a perfect world is it now


caughtinside


Feb 19, 2005, 12:15 AM
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If I came upon a route that had a set of draws on it and wanted to climb the route. I'd remove the draws, only because I don't trust equipment when I don't know it's history.

I always get a kick out of this classic gumby reply. "I don't know it's history."

They're quickdraws. A quick glance should be enough to determine if they're still 'good.' :lol: It's two biners and webbing. I mean come on, you trust bolts all the time, and you can't see what the shaft of the bolt looks like!

But if you say something enough times on the internet, it becomes a rule, right? :lol: Hey Jay, what route is that? Nice going.


joshklingbeil


Feb 19, 2005, 12:16 AM
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Absolutley pathetic someone would take draws off a climb like that i mean how else do you project a climb or get an fa when you have to put draws on take em off and so on i would think climbers in this day in age would have more respect pathetic...
I think they should get stronger. I don't really mind seeing draws on a sick kauk route out on some random dome in Toulumne. It makes me want to try it. But I think it would be cool if spurt climbers reconized what a red point really is.


jt512


Feb 19, 2005, 12:21 AM
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Hey Jay, what route is that?

I don't recall. One of those 10s or 11s left of Yaak Crack.

-Jay


jt512


Feb 19, 2005, 12:23 AM
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Absolutley pathetic someone would take draws off a climb like that i mean how else do you project a climb or get an fa when you have to put draws on take em off and so on i would think climbers in this day in age would have more respect pathetic...
I think they should get stronger. I don't really mind seeing draws on a sick kauk route out on some random dome in Toulumne. It makes me want to try it. But I think it would be cool if spurt climbers reconized what a red point really is.

I think it would be "cool" if tard climbers finally realized what sport climbing is.

-Jay


joshklingbeil


Feb 19, 2005, 1:11 AM
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Yo check out all the booty out at Red Rocks, oh thay are fixed? Cool! My friends Jim and D want to drill some 5.10- pockets on that wall right in between those two routes to the right of you and then hang some chains with biners on them because we don't have those quick draw things.


jt512


Feb 19, 2005, 1:18 AM
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Yo check out all the booty out at Red Rocks, oh thay are fixed? Cool! My friends Jim and D want to drill some 5.10- pockets on that wall right in between those two routes to the right of you and then hang some chains with biners on them because we don't have those quick draw things.

Idiot.

-Jay


joshklingbeil


Feb 19, 2005, 1:50 AM
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Sorry Jay for messing around and acting stupid joking about drilled pockets at your beloved sport crag. I would never rip off draws at a sport crag. But if its on a super clasic like superpin its mine. Unless I seen who it belongs to and their cool.


slobmonster


Feb 19, 2005, 1:56 AM
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The point I might eventually make: keep the fixed gear as inobvious as possible. "Fixed" draws are antithetical to this.
Just because the land managers care in wilderness areas does not mean they do elsewhere. In my experience, they do not.
Okay; this much I can understand. My only issue is that in my experience they DO care, and I'd really prefer them to not even have noticed (fixed gear) at all. This is hardly an argument, as I think we're basically in agreement.


jbell2355


Feb 19, 2005, 1:56 AM
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Only a pansy sport climber would even consider starting such a silly thread. Use your head. If you leave a bunch of gear in the woods three hours from home, its gonna disappear.


caughtinside


Feb 19, 2005, 2:00 AM
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Only a pansy sport climber would even consider starting such a silly thread. Use your head. If you leave a bunch of gear in the woods three hours from home, its gonna disappear.

Uhh, how about this? Go to hell.


d.ben
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Feb 19, 2005, 2:13 AM
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whoever said "think cave rock" are you seriously trying to compare covering the floor of a cave to leaving quickdrwas up?

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