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tattooed_climber
Feb 16, 2005, 3:39 AM
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OK.....question:
on a unslung nut or hex with a hole bigger than 5.5mm, what is better to do?
A) sling it with 5.5mm tech cord. it is the strongest, but it will loose and the nut will slide up and down.
B) sling it with the correct sized accessory cord. it fits but is not as strong
C) sling it with Webbing via Water-Knot. is weak and bulky but offers the ability for special placements ( as well i like none stiffened chocks, so i have no problem with floppy pro or needing that extra reach that a wire offers)
D) get it professional slung with nylon/dyneema via bar-tacks. 14kNs!!!!!!!!
i prob missed some facts.........and what you do guys think?
help a brother out
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kimgraves
Feb 16, 2005, 4:37 AM
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Hi,
I slung my old Chouinard Hexes and Stoppers with Spectra cord as per Black Diamond suggestion. I’ve used them now for two seasons and find I don’t mind them sliding around on the cord. N.B.: You must use a triple fisherman’s knot when tying this cord.
Best, Kim
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mesomorf
Feb 16, 2005, 5:14 AM
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My '70s vintage hexes are slung with 5.5 mm spectra or whatever it's called nowadays.
The extra space in the 9 mm hole is taken up with clear plastic tubing inserts cut to size. A kind of shim.
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slavetogravity
Feb 16, 2005, 5:35 AM
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In reply to: OK.....question: on a unslung nut or hex with a hole bigger than 5.5mm, what is better to do?
"Ted, WTF would I want with your worn out old slug nuts? Ya' fricken' tard!"
That is all . :lol: :lol: :lol:
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tattooed_climber
Feb 16, 2005, 5:38 AM
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i got them for the narely factor...learning tools.....besides all my shit is new and i wanted to experience gear from the afew years back...
besides...how can i have my themed "Hanns , the 1970's German Climber," with hippie hair and lime green lyrca pants without some outschool pro?
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slavetogravity
Feb 16, 2005, 5:55 AM
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In reply to: i got them for the narely factor...learning tools
Just add nut.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=27994
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tattooed_climber
Feb 16, 2005, 5:58 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: i got them for the narely factor...learning tools Oh the "narely factor" well why didn't you say so. In that case, I suggest you go get those bad boys slug with some properly sun bleached bail tat. Next time you're in Squamsih go climb the North north arete Hey it's only 5.9. Once your up there take your pick of bail tat from any decade of your choosing. 90's, 80's, 70's, hell even the 60's. It's all up there. With your nuts slung you should still have enough webbing left over to make a swami belt. Dude, the narel factor you'd be giving off would be off the chart!! Just add nut. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=27994
well bud ya highjacked that one pretty well.... :lol:
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buckyllama
Feb 16, 2005, 2:11 PM
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If you don't like the things sliding on your cord, use a bit of silicon tubing. (like the stuff used for the pump in fish tanks)
Run the cord throught he tubing and then curse, swear, and manhandle the tubing through the holes so that it helps to hold everything in place and as a side benefit, pads the cord a little probably helping it's durability.
If the holes are just a little too small for this treatment you could always drill them out, but it's my experience that on old hexes this trick works perfectly.
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labrat0065
Feb 17, 2005, 12:33 AM
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you could get all fancy, and make tuping to make it fit, or you could send it out to get slung on dyneema, but personally, i just use 5.5 tech cord and then rubberband it tite riht below the hex, works wonders, never had to change, FREE!!!!!!
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johnson6102002
Feb 17, 2005, 12:41 AM
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bad link
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thegreytradster
Feb 17, 2005, 1:44 AM
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I just slide some shrink tubing over the 5.5 mm. Just because I have lots of it. About anything that takes up some of the excess space and prevents abrasion on the lower end is ok.
Tat stories.
In the early 70's I did N.E. Face West at Tahquitz. I had recently aquired a set of the then brand new hexentrics. We were swinging leads and my partner had never used them. On his lead he needed a 1-1/2" or 2" pin and didn't have one, didn't quite get the concept, so he beat my brand new #8 hex in with a hammer. It's still there! Just throw a sling around it. 8^)
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one900johnnyk
Feb 17, 2005, 2:42 AM
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In reply to: i got them for the narely factor...learning tools.....besides all my s--- is new and i wanted to experience gear from the afew years back... besides...how can i have my themed "Hanns , the 1970's German Climber," with hippie hair and lime green lyrca pants without some outschool pro?
that's interesting. i was gonna suggest you step into the twenty first century but now you got me jonesing for the same thing. where'd you find em/??
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paulraphael
Feb 18, 2005, 2:24 AM
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You're lucky to have hexes with the old, big holes, in my opinion.
As someone mentioned, the original way they were adapted to skinny cord was with plastic tubing. you can get this at most hardware stores ... it's basic clear vinyl tubing from the plumbing section. bring a hex and some cord with you, because it comes in several sizes.
What I like about hexes slung this way is that you can cut the tubing as long as you like, to get a somewhat rigid handle for making reachy placements. this gives you the advantage of the wired hexes, but the cord is only stiff for the few inches that you need for this. The rest of the cord stays soft and manageable.
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wlderdude
Feb 19, 2005, 6:18 AM
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In reply to: You're lucky to have hexes with the old, big holes, in my opinion. As someone mentioned, the original way they were adapted to skinny cord was with plastic tubing. you can get this at most hardware stores ... it's basic clear vinyl tubing from the plumbing section. bring a hex and some cord with you, because it comes in several sizes. What I like about hexes slung this way is that you can cut the tubing as long as you like, to get a somewhat rigid handle for making reachy placements. this gives you the advantage of the wired hexes, but the cord is only stiff for the few inches that you need for this. The rest of the cord stays soft and manageable.
There are several online vendors who still sell unslung hexcentrics with the big holes. The hexes are coming from Europe from companies like Camp. http://sportextreme.com is a vendor who advertizes on this site sometimes and they have them.
I bought a set a few years ago and had to use the plastic tubing trick on the #4 and #5. I slung the rest with webbing. I initially sewed the webbing myself, but got cold feet and water knotted it instead. Even though my rational self knew the stitching was stronger, the knots would give me more confidence on a scary lead. Rubber bands hold the tails in nicely so they don't flop around.
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paulraphael
Feb 19, 2005, 5:29 PM
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In reply to: [There are several online vendors who still sell unslung hexcentrics with the big holes. The hexes are coming from Europe from companies like Camp. http://sportextreme.com is a vendor who advertizes on this site sometimes and they have them.
any significant difference in shape/useability between these brands and the b.d.s?
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adamwvt
Feb 19, 2005, 5:44 PM
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Here is a tip:
I have two large bd hexes, 10&11. I slung them so that the knot is inside the hex to reduce bulk, it also protects the knot. Just be sure to periodicaly check your knots on your nuts.
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