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10c/d Slab/Face recommendation in JTree
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josephgdawson


Feb 20, 2005, 4:27 PM
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10c/d Slab/Face recommendation in JTree  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park: _Joshua_Tree_National_Park_Overview_)
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I flipped through the JTree book looking for some 10c or 10d three stars or more slab climbs, but I did not see but 2. Of course there are many climbs that do not have any stars that are plenty of fun, but I cannot tell if some of them are slab or trad.

Can anyone recommend a well protected 10c/d slab climb that they enjoyed?

Even an easy 11a would be cool.


crackmd


Feb 20, 2005, 4:35 PM
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Re: 10c/d Slab/Face recommendation in JTree [In reply to]
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EBGBs in the Echo area is a beautiful hard 5.10 low angle climb that some may think borders 5.11. It doesn't climb like a sport route but seems well protected for Jtree face standards. Just keep your cool until you are standing on the impressive summit.

Although only rated 10b, Figures on a Landscape is a must do for any 5.10 Jtree climber. The first pitch is about as good a face pitch as you will find in Jtree and the second pitch is almost as good. Again, although well-protected, it doesn't feel like a sport route. There is a traverse on the first pitch that may cause maritial strife if you make your wife follow it.


josephgdawson


Feb 20, 2005, 4:46 PM
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CrackMD, it will be a girl I am dating doing the following. How bad is the traverse on Figured on a Landscape? It it worse for the follower? Is it 10b traverse?


rjavery10


Feb 20, 2005, 4:48 PM
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Re: 10c/d Slab/Face recommendation in JTree [In reply to]
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I second the EBGB's recommendation. I led it last month and it was thin but good.

In the 10a/b face climbing range I would strongly recommend Heart and Sole in the Echo area as well. Chalk Up Another One is a good 10a in Hidden Valley Campground.

Loose Lady in Real Hidden Valley is only 5.9+ but it can feel like a 10+ due to the loose nature of it. Four Stars.

Have fun, love that J Tree friction.

--Ryan


trapdoor


Feb 20, 2005, 4:57 PM
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:shock:


josephgdawson


Feb 20, 2005, 5:04 PM
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I have done Forbidden Paradise(10b) and Stick to What (5.9). Both are good and Forbidden Paradise is markedly harder. I felt like I could have decked from the 1st and 2nd bolts on Stick to What, but Forbidded in well bolted. That last third of Forbidden Paradis is pretty easy, which is probably why it only gets three stars, but I was hopping around like a jackrabbit on coke when I got to the top; it is a good time. I had to take twice on Forbidden to figure out where the hell I was gonna put my feet. My partner thought it was harder than 10B. I have no idea. Once I am in up to my eyeballs in a climb, they all seem the same. There is a 5.6 on the left side of Echo Rock, and I cant say it feels that much easier than Stick to What (5.9).


crackmd


Feb 20, 2005, 5:15 PM
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In reply to:
CrackMD, it will be a girl I am dating doing the following. How bad is the traverse on Figured on a Landscape? It it worse for the follower? Is it 10b traverse?

It's been a couple years. I do remember it being mostly solid holds. The hardest move I remember on the traverse was right before the anchor when the leader is well to the right of the last protection. For this reason, it is probably worse for the leader (i.e. the follower will be doing the move right at the anchor). I think the crux moves were prior to the traverse although the traverse seemed 9+/10-. Might be one to do after a couple days getting used to and more confident on Josh rock.

Check out this link.
http://www.climbingjtree.com/rock/db/wonderland_of_rocks/the_astro_domes___north/figures_on_a_landscape__aka_monkey_on_my_back_.html


fredbob


Feb 20, 2005, 5:26 PM
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The crux on Figures is at the end of the traverse, just before the belay; perfectly fine for the follower.

While in the Astro Domes area: Such A Savage (11a) is a must. Do both pitches as the 2nd 10a/b pitch is excellent. Solid Gold is good and seems now some people are calling it 10b/c.

Run For Your Life (10b) and Runaway (11a) are both excellent in the Real Hidden Valley Area.

There are tons of 10c to 11a slab routes that are great. Maybe you need to look at the guide more carefully.


crackmd


Feb 20, 2005, 5:49 PM
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In reply to:
I'd deffinetly recomend ebgb. And if your in the area you may as well do heart and soul and forbidden paridise. All three are good climbs, ebgb in my opinion is the best of the three. Also i have'nt done them yet but solid gold and space mountain are too face climbs high on my list.

Space Mountain is an excellent climb and there are rarely any people on it. The holds on the arete are too good; climb softly!


crackmd


Feb 20, 2005, 5:53 PM
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In reply to:
The crux on Figures is at the end of the traverse, just before the belay; perfectly fine for the follower.

While in the Astro Domes area: Such A Savage (11a) is a must. Do both pitches as the 2nd 10a/b pitch is excellent. Solid Gold is good and seems now some people are calling it 10b/c.

Run For Your Life (10b) and Runaway (11a) are both excellent in the Real Hidden Valley Area.

There are tons of 10c to 11a slab routes that are great. Maybe you need to look at the guide more carefully.

I have avoided Such a Savage because of the "R" rating it was given in the guidebook. How runout is it? I'm definitely a stronger slab climber than the last time I was at that wall.


murf


Feb 21, 2005, 8:19 AM
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In reply to:
EBGBs in the Echo area is a beautiful hard 5.10 low angle climb that some may think borders 5.11. It doesn't climb like a sport route but seems well protected for Jtree face standards. Just keep your cool until you are standing on the impressive summit.
.

EB's is a great route. I'd suggest pulling the rope and tossing is back down for the second, especially if they aren't as strong as you. Most agree the start is harder than 5.10+, but only for a move or two right by a bolt.

There's that .10c on Rock Hudson which is well protected, name escapes me.

Decompensator of Lhasa is a good 5.10+ in Steve's canyon.


bandycoot


Feb 21, 2005, 8:56 AM
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Run for Your Life was one of the better face climbs I've done out there. The view is spectacular. The formation is the highest around and you can see in all directions.

My wife wasn't able to pull off the start of EBGBs and fell on the crux of Figures on a Landscape and was able to complete both climbs without too much trouble. They are both "doable" for a weaker follower but your partner should be at least an easy 5.10 climber.

Such a Savage looks sweet, and I think I'm going to go for it next time I'm out in Wonderland of Rocks! The crux on it looks like it was aid bolted those bolts are so close.


slablizard


Feb 21, 2005, 9:31 AM
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VEry little experience at JT.
Loose lady ( 10b?) Runout slab
Puss in Boots ( great) 11b, slab just right of LLady.

Don't do LL if it's a very windy day :P ( read my "Thanksgiving at JT" trip report for a laugh )


omerdimsum


Feb 21, 2005, 9:31 AM
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Pardon me if I blend slab and face climbing...

- If I was taking a date, I would go for the day to The Comic Book Area. Fewer people are around (due to 15 minute walk in), it gets great winter sun, and the climbing is stellar. The slab/face route there to hit is "Cleopatra"; this is a beautiful, well protected and attainable 11a.

- EBGB is a little hard for the grade. That area offers a lot of good slab climbing though.

- Run For Your Life (10b) and Runaway (11a) are both excellent in the Real Hidden Valley Area.

- Decompensator of Lhasa in Steve's Canyon is fun and exciting. Right now, my thoughts are consumed with a relatively obscure 11c slab/face ("Unknown"), which is also in Steve's Canyon (across from Sidewinder).


fredbob


Feb 21, 2005, 10:23 AM
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In reply to:
I have avoided Such a Savage because of the "R" rating it was given in the guidebook. How runout is it? I'm definitely a stronger slab climber than the last time I was at that wall.

Ii has never had an "R" rating in the guide, but some people feel that the runouts to the 1st and 2nd bolts (10a slab) are kinda dicey. But, the crux section of the climb (11a) is basically a bolt ladder.


In reply to:
Loose lady ( 10b?) Runout slab

This is not a runout route in any real sense of the word, but it isn't a sport climb either.


In reply to:
The slab/face route there to hit is "Cleopatra"; this is a beautiful, well protected and attainable 11a.

This is a classic pure slab climb, probably 11a/b. An additional bolt was added a few years back and it has excellent pro. There are several other good face climbs in the Comic Book area worth doing too.:

Afterthought (11b/c) a short bolted groove down and right of Cleopatra, just left of Cherry Blossom (10a).

Distant Episode (10c) and Bottle In Front of Me (10a) are good. As is nearby Welcome To Joshua Tree (10c).

Gumby Poindexter (10a/b) and Silver Lining (11b/c) are newer face routesbetween Tubular Balls and Take It For Granite.

Have fun.


bandycoot


Feb 21, 2005, 10:43 AM
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Fredbob, I have some questions about White Rain. I walked up to it and then promptly walked away. I did the same thing with Solid Gold back in the day and then went back when I felt stronger and it went very well. What made me walk away was the distance between bolts, and my lack of understanding which way the route finishes. Is this climb as runout as it looks? How about the crux, protected? How is the finish? Which way does it finish? I know you're supposed to stick (yucca) clip the first bolt if you're a sissy like me. Also, who did the FA on that spectacular line?

Thanks!

Josh


tigerbythetail


Feb 22, 2005, 3:23 PM
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Josh-

All of your answers concerning White Rain should be found here -

http://www.climbingjtree.com/rock/db/queen_mountain/walt_s_rocks/white_rain.html


tigerbythetail


Feb 23, 2005, 8:24 AM
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5.10c slabs - Absolute Zero, Belay Girl, Blues Traveller, Celine, Compassion Of The Elephants, Falcon And The Snowman, The Lizard Of Ahhs, The Mojus, Official Route Of The 1984 Olympics, The Decompensator Of Lhasa, The Popemobile, Tiptoe To Topanga, Welcome To Joshua Tree.

5.10d slabs - Bee Gees, Bourbon On Ice, Circle Of Benevolence, Count Dracula, Dike Flight, EBGB's, Hot Buttered Elves, Hot Dog In A Bun, Kokopelli, Live And Let Die, Milk Arete, Nuptial Sac, Presence Of Grace, RCA, Soft Cell, That Old Soft Shoe, Virginia City, Where Have All The Cowboys Gone.

5.11a slabs - 29 Bombs, Abstract Roller Disco, Animal Magnetism, Bald Ambition, Here Comes The Bride, British Airways, Buford's House Of Liver, Good Housekeeping, Hollowed Ground, Hot Lava, Red Headed Stranger, Riding The Cotton Pony, Swept Away, Tin God, Runaway, Rocky Road, Ruby Slippers, Winter's Moon .

There's plenty more...Josh is a BIG place!


thomaskeefer


Feb 23, 2005, 9:07 AM
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'Swept Away' is not a slab route in that the slab climbing is only slabby at your feet and you have a pretty solid crimp to crimp traverse in that section. The business section of that route is well protected by a bolt and some gear and is a balancy high stepping crack sequence...
That being said, it is a great route and since you will likely be over in that area on stick to what and the like, you chould definintly check it out.


fredbob


Feb 23, 2005, 9:24 PM
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In reply to:
I have some questions about White Rain.
Is this climb as runout as it looks?

It is not that run out if you are a solid 5.10+ climber. Bolts are where you need them.

In reply to:
How about the crux, protected?


I think the crux is the first moves, and to answer another question, unless you are real tall, you stick clip the first bolt. I certainly didn't feel like falling off into the 25-30' pit at the base.

In reply to:
How is the finish?

The finish is the psychological crux, probably 10+. You head up and right into the seam crack, staying to the side of it until it eases. Could be an exciting fall if you blew off.

In reply to:
Which way does it finish?
see above.

In reply to:
I know you're supposed to stick (yucca) clip the first bolt if you're a sissy like me.
I used the Yucca.

In reply to:
Also, who did the FA on that spectacular line?

Another one of Walt Shipley's classics.

While you're in the area, there are several other 4 and 5 star routes to do on Upper Walt's Rocks.

Mohave Queen 11a ***** is located to the left of White Rain and as good or better. Begin in chimney, head out right to a crack, up this (10b/c) to steep headwall (11a/b) on superb rock to anchors. 170 foot rap.

Upper and Lower Mojave routes (to the left).

Drag Queen 11c on face to right of White Rain and left of Crack Queen.

Crack Queen is excellent an 11a long crack.

Have fun. Be bold.


fredbob


Feb 23, 2005, 9:26 PM
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In reply to:
'Swept Away' is not a slab route in that the slab climbing is only slabby at your feet and you have a pretty solid crimp to crimp traverse in that section. The business section of that route is well protected by a bolt

Of course it is a slab route route. There are a few moves of laybacking, but all of the 1st pitch and all but about 15 feet of the second pitch are face climbing.


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