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Falling, and limits
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paintinhaler


Jun 21, 2002, 5:28 AM
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Falling, and limits
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The question comes up a lot, to fall or not to fall. If you are climbing and your thinking about falling or not falling, this means your not pushing your limit. Sometimes I think oh sh_t Im going to fall and try the move and make it. Its just great when you make a move you didnt think you would. If you have any possible chance you can make the move, go for it. You might as well try the move, and falls are not as bad if you don't think they are coming. If you know the fall is coming you think to much about it and you freak, but if it just happens it's not that bad. Remember to push your limits, and keep climbing. I just wanted to say what I had to say and see what people would say about my view on this. Also one other thing, I think chalk keeps the sweet away but then after I get done climbing my hands sweet a lot more. Im just saying things because I wanted to. Later -wEs-


smooth-up
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Jun 21, 2002, 6:20 AM
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You do need to think a little about falling just
to make sure you stay alive and don't end up like a bug on the front truck!Keep in mind how much rope you got between you and that big rock you just left behind,and do you need to help push yourself off when you start to fall?? And your belay needs to know what to do too. But after all that split second thinking... ENJOY THE AIR TIME , IT BUILDS CHARACTER!!!!


smooth-up
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Jun 21, 2002, 6:24 AM
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You do need to think a little about falling just
to make sure you stay alive and don't end up like a bug on the front truck!Keep in mind how much rope you got between you and that big rock you just left behind,and do you need to help push yourself off when you start to fall?? And your belay needs to know what to do too. But after all that split second thinking... ENJOY THE AIR TIME , IT BUILDS CHARACTER!!!!


verticallaw


Jun 21, 2002, 3:37 PM
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Ahhhhhhh nothing like a good screamer to wake you up!

If ya fall ya fall it's the nature of the game....just try not to hit something on they way.

WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE


loosaboy


Jun 21, 2002, 3:59 PM
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While I would agree in a top rope or sport scenario, I would not take such an attitude on a trad lead.

I think a rule that sounded good to me was 90/100. If 100% sure of your placements you better be 90% sure you can pull the move. If 90% sure of your pro, you better be 100% sure you can pull it. I tend to follow that when climbing on my own pro. (same if i have only clipped the first bolt).

PIECE


pelliott


Jun 21, 2002, 4:26 PM
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Actually thinking about falling is a motivator. When you are eight feet above your last bolt you think twice about letting that foot slide off the hold. I am much more willing to pull to the next jug in this circumstance.


killclimbz


Jun 21, 2002, 4:32 PM
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gawd,

Please try taking the caps lock every once in awhile. If you don't know what that is, I'm sure one of the neighborhood kids or maybe a family member can show you.

Thanks.


treyr


Jun 21, 2002, 8:17 PM
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I never think about fallin it is pessimistic always be an optimistic climber.

Trob


p0ck3t_pu55y


Jun 21, 2002, 8:28 PM
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Personally, I try to NEVER think about falling. Occasionally you must, for example, w/ a new belayer

Safety is one thing and it should always be on your mind whether trad or bolted. I just think that if you have falling on your mind, that is what will happen. You definately shouldn't attempt a move anticipating a fall, save that for your belayer.

Regarding that trad vs sport debate... Falling is falling. I have never met a climber hangdogging a trad route. You have to trust your trad pro even on severely exposed routes. That's the thrill of the sport. So I will agree w/ Gawd here (caps-locked or not).




Partner camhead


Jun 21, 2002, 9:26 PM
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Interesting observation p0ck3t. I however, prefer to 'work' trad routes as if they are sport routes. I have no qualms about hanging on natural pro instead of taking a whipper. I am not sure if some would consider this 'true' climbing ethics-wise, but it is how I personally am able to progress.



rmiller


Jun 25, 2002, 11:08 PM
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The debate about falling on trad versus sport gear is silly. Falling is a part of climbing, whether it be sport, trad, aid, bouldering, or ice. The rule should be place your gear well (trad or sport) and then push yourself (ice and aid are different). To get better, you have to fall. If you do every route without falling, then you are not reaching your fullest potential! The key, as stated, is placing your gear well and trying. The other option is accepting the gear is no good and trying anyway, but now you are relying on your own knowledge and accepting the risk. This is a whole other post however, so I won't get into it. Basically, I am saying you must fall to reach your potential, sport or trad. The gear is good if you learn to place it properly. A nut can be just as strong, or stronger, than a bolt. Place your gear well and go fall!!!


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