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mother_sheep
Mar 1, 2005, 5:05 PM
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My partner and I are looking at doing Kelso Ridge on Sunday. The route looks more fun as a winter climb as opposed to summer. For those of you who have done it, did you need any gear? Is there any ice on the route? Do you descend via the Torrey's walkup? Any do's and don't or worthy beta to share? Thanks.
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mother_sheep
Mar 1, 2005, 5:15 PM
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Thanks zozo but I need winter beta.
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climb14er
Mar 1, 2005, 7:17 PM
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Kelso is a neat ridge for the winter with exposure and footing problems that can occur with excess snow, ice and wind. Basically it's a fun route and a rope with some slings, a few stoppers/hexes (optional) are all you need. You could exit via standard Torrey's finish or climb Greys or come on down one of the couloirs if not snow loaded.
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rocknap
Mar 1, 2005, 7:32 PM
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Guess I might as well post this for everyone who's curious.. I've climbed Kelso twice in February, once on a multinight and last saturday in one day.
Here's the one day trip report:
http://www.summitpost.org/cgi-bin/trip_report.pl?trip_report_id=1792&mountain_id=229
Here are the pics:
http://gallery.sage-tech.net/album56
-s
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shorty
Mar 1, 2005, 7:36 PM
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In reply to: My partner and I are looking at doing Kelso Ridge on Sunday. The route looks more fun as a winter climb as opposed to summer.
In reply to: For those of you who have done it, did you need any gear?
In reply to: Is there any ice on the route?
In reply to: Do you descend via the Torrey's walkup? Any do's and don't or worthy beta to share?
In clear weather, you can preview most of the route from the Bakerville exit sign. As of last Sunday, there is definitely some snow on the ridge, but rock is also quite visible. Expect some pockets of deep, unconsolidated snow (good postholing!) and sections of wind-scoured hard snow.
I recall a short 3rd-class section low on the ridge which was an absolute blast. Brushing snow off the holds and big stems to avoid the ice covered rock sections.
Most likely, your highest avy danger will be in the approach to the Kelso-Torreys saddle and your descent off the east face of Torreys and/or Grays. Using the shorty wild-ass-guess-ometer (patent pending), conditions probably won't warrant crampons or screws. An axe would be a good idea, though.
I don't know if you can currently drive to the normal Grays parking lot. If you have to start hiking from the Bakerville exit, it will be a long slog of a day. You'll have more snow on the route than we did, but it should still be fun.
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brokenarrow
Mar 1, 2005, 7:57 PM
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Skibabeage:
I have been lurking this site for a while now and must apologize for making this my first post. However your advice to mother_sheep set off some bells in my head.
After reviewing many pages of mother_sheep's posts I have determined she is a climber of average ability (no slight intended of course) who gets out regularly, has already had a couple of close calls, and who, by her own admission, doesn't ski.
Your post history profiles a climber who gets occasionally gets out on easy routes as a second, who skis from time to time, but who doesn't have any significant experience off piste and who, by your own admission, has yet to take an avalanche course.
My problem is that you're doling out advice pertaining to matters about which you seem to have little real-time experience. I have observed this happening almost every day on this site and quite frankly find it irresponsible.
A trip to the Kelso Ridge in winter entails travel through terrain with historical avalanche activity, followed by mixed rock and snow climbing; a fact that was omitted in your post.
Furthermore, your advice to "Bring skis and carve your retreat down Dead Dog Couloir!" ignores the fact that said descent is most safely performed in the "climb it before you ski it" style and not simply as a fast way off the top. The fact you have not done that ski route, compounded by mother_sheep's lack of skiing ability, especially lends gravity to the potential for disaster.
I would ask you to consider the weight some people would put behind your online advice, especially in light of your position of authority on this website.
As for Kelso Ridge in winter, mother_sheep, I have done it several times in a variety of conditions. My advice would be to go with someone who knows and to turn around without hesitation is something doesn't feel right.
I wish you both continued good luck in your climbing careers.
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mother_sheep
Mar 1, 2005, 8:14 PM
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Back on track. . .
So is my only option in getting up the road to the trailhead by skis or is the road passable with an AWD vehicle?
Thanks!
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brokenarrow
Mar 1, 2005, 8:25 PM
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Skibabeage:
No need to play the self-righteous indignation card so early. I did in fact pick up on the fact the two of you are friends. But what about the poor inexperienced schlub looking for something to do this weekend who just happens to come across your exchange? Oh, hey - the Dead Dog Couloir - let's go do that on Saturday!
Think about it.
There was no need to put in-depth research in quotes; it was your term, not mine.
And now, as you will no doubt be inclined to do (as indicated by my "research"), I will end this joyous reparte and give you the last word.
Again, my best.
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mother_sheep
Mar 1, 2005, 8:32 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: So is my only option in getting up the road to the trailhead by skis or is the road passable with an AWD vehicle? With some recent snows near the divide, the road could be a little iffy for driving. Unless someone has been up the road within the past week and can verify its condition, you may want to take block out 2 or 3 hours on Saturday to preview the approach drive.
Thanks Brad!
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shorty
Mar 1, 2005, 8:34 PM
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In reply to: So is my only option in getting up the road to the trailhead by skis or is the road passable with an AWD vehicle? |
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mack_north
Mar 1, 2005, 8:43 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2005
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Hey gang, whose up for schlubbing up the Kelso Ridge on Sunday? I made some homemade crampons for my Sorels and I am just DYING to test them out! Will my AMC Pacer make it to the trailhead or can I just figureskate?
It's cool if we get in a whiteout - my Swatch watch has a compass!
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cologman
Mar 1, 2005, 11:58 PM
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Hey can I catch a ride in the Pacer? Would be a good prelude to carving the hell out of the Dead Dog. But then as I've only been on skiis once this year :shock: it may be more of a straight line affair. Better yet since I'm so impressed with the low learning curve associatted with boarding I'll just take the split rig up there and give it a go :roll: .
Hey Tracy, have fun!
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kcrag
Mar 4, 2005, 3:34 AM
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deleted
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squeakyclimber
Mar 4, 2005, 4:49 AM
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Alrighty then...
This route is not so hard, but is scary enough when you are looking up the ridge rising thousands of feet above you.
I did this route last year around this time, right after a large snow. There were a fewimportant things.
One everything had 3 feet of loose snow on every thing, even 60 degree rock steps. The only thing that made this confortable was the crampons which allow you to climb up ice covered rocks. Going with out them would be a big mistake.
As to the knife edge, yes I did carry a rope, but rather than go over it i went around it to thenorth. I have done this both in summer and winter. Yet you do lose style points for doing this, but the point of third class ridge is not the ropework, at least for me. Going around was fairly easy and lacked the death fall potential
We got a bit lost comming off of the back side in a blizzard, but you just need to remeber that if you have not walked of a cornice the draniage is to your right. Be Careful about cornices, one of the 4 times I have climbed the peak I was about 2 feet shy of stepping through one.
At 5 in the morning we our jeep cherokee with A/T tires stuck 1/4 mile from the summer trail head. A bit of cussing and lots of exahust and we backed down 100 yards to a wide spot where we left it. Just dont be dumb, in the early morning light I thought that the snowmobile tracks were jeep tracks.
I like candy canes and lolly pops.
Peace out.
P.s. Does anyone think it would be possible to put a route up the south? face that isto the left of Dead dog? I have looked at it every time I have been in the area, and it looks like with linking some snow and a rock band or two, a route could go almost straight up the face to the summit. hmmmm
(I write like an idot, guess 5 page papers for school burn me out)
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sharpie
Mar 4, 2005, 7:13 PM
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Registered: Nov 8, 2002
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...deja vu all over again.....
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maculated
Mar 4, 2005, 7:29 PM
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Registered: Dec 23, 2001
Posts: 6179
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Hey! How's "contempt of court" treating you?
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