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camsticker
Jun 19, 2002, 10:01 PM
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Just was curious to see what the opinions where from the RC.com Trad climbers as to what style of Pro is preferred Passive (nuts, stoppers, hexs, knots, etc.) or Active (friends, cams, you know the rest)and why?
Ivan
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rojo_diablo
Jun 19, 2002, 10:35 PM
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I personally like passive in most case's, just becasue I've noticed that my cams have a tendences (sp?) to walk and wiggle loose. Although I find that passive pro is a bit harder to remove after a nice long hanging belay/fall, where as active is a bit easier. Although I do like's active's versatality range being able to accomadate a range of width depending on the pro.
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lesotho
Jun 19, 2002, 10:44 PM
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I like using passive pro since it is lighter and easy to place. A couple of friends have never done any harm though.
Active cams are great for placements in hanging belays because they can be removed with more easy, but in the end it depends on the climb.
The longer and more technical the climb, the less weight you want to carry etc.
I guess I can't give a straight answer to this one.
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lesotho
Jun 19, 2002, 10:45 PM
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PS Sorry for the bad language on that one...
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camsticker
Jun 19, 2002, 10:47 PM
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Have you ever had a lead fall where your active pro failed?
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joemor
Jun 20, 2002, 12:49 AM
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all comes down to user placement ..... if you place either badly thell fail.
as for my favorite i like passive to place... but i love fiddleing with my cams and as i place them more and more im learing to trust them (or my placemeent of them) more and more.
joe
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newtocalgary
Jun 20, 2002, 1:04 AM
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There is nothing better when u know you have a bomber nut but cams are an esential piece in granite when its a straight smooth crack
First time i ever placed a double zero cam I fell 7 feet on it and it held Where a #10 nut once blew out a chunk of rock so not always up to guy placing sometimes mother nature helps or hinders
I trust my nut placement so much it drives my partner crazy because i never tug or test placement while he tugs the hell out of them and i need a tool to remove every placement
[ This Message was edited by: newtocalgary on 2002-06-22 17:32 ]
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camsticker
Jun 20, 2002, 1:56 AM
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Great feedback!! My personal choice is passive pro. I still am trying to trust my cams! I have yet to have a lead fall onto a cam so I still have that nagging feeling in the back of my head that is going to punch out when the rope snaps But...there are some situations I have been in lately that having and using "friends" seemed to make the placements really easy...now all I have to do is TRUST THEM. But I guess that comes with using them more and more. So for now, my rack is mainly passive with a couple of cams. Thanks everyone for the outstanding feedback!!
Ivan
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blindslap
Jun 20, 2002, 5:52 AM
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i try to place passive as often as i can because i can give it a good tug and not have to worry as much about it popping loose. If i get pumped or at a bad stance i go with the quick plug and go cams.
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climber1
Jun 21, 2002, 7:35 PM
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Cams are nice, and relatively easy to place.
however, if I'm goin'to a take a whipper, I'd rather fall on a nut, or hex.
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camsticker
Jun 21, 2002, 8:11 PM
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I am with you on the whipper comment Climber1!!
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camhead
Jun 21, 2002, 8:18 PM
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I am much more comfortable placing cams. However, a couple weeks ago my ass was saved by a bomber #3 stopper.
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camsticker
Jun 21, 2002, 8:23 PM
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Hey Camhead--you still got it hanging on your mirror...you should post a snap shot of it for those missed the story at SLC mtg.
ivan
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rocknpowda
Jun 21, 2002, 8:41 PM
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I'd like to see people go to indian creek or most of the utah desert with only passive pro. For that matter, I'd like to see them go down there with passive pro and only ONE set of cams.
Not that it can't be done, my first rack was 2 sets of nuts and a set of hex's-perfect for LCC but not so in the desert. My first lead was a 5.8 on Potash road with no cams- - - -I was scared SHI#LESS.
Oh and yes IVAN I have had an active piece of pro pull on me but it was placed badly and I knew it.
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stevematthys
Jun 22, 2002, 11:06 PM
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i think that passive pro is better certain placements, and active pro is better in others.
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