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2 or 4 aiders
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ropesologuy


Feb 17, 2005, 6:13 PM
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2 or 4 aiders
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I am pretty new to aid climbing and was wondering how many aiders are the norm.I have been doing mostly vertical cracks and a couple of over hangs any info would be apreaciated thanks


punk


Feb 17, 2005, 6:23 PM
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Re: 2 or 4 aiders [In reply to]
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two to start, than I will add the third, works well for me. others, will have other opinions


tradjunkie


Feb 17, 2005, 7:45 PM
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i'd go with the three aider method if your just starting out...

four is totally over kill and causes too much comfusion when your getting comfortable in the slings and two aiders won't let you get comfortable cause it's hard to move up and get on the fifi with just one aider clipped to the top piece...

with a little practice you can move pretty fast with three so long as you plan each move carefully and avoid trapping the wrong aider...you can drop the daisy chain aider combo too which gets you twisted up like no other and is really only needed when your testing... just let one hang, when you need it you can clip it to your aider...

once you get it dailed in you can switch back to two on easy ground and move really fast...


potreroed


Feb 17, 2005, 8:25 PM
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Four is overkill but having a third can be really useful. If you have to move it from one side to the other you can avoid clusterfuggs by passing it behind your back


tomtom


Feb 22, 2005, 2:39 PM
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I started aid climbing last year with two, and haven't needed to add a third or forth. I usually carry a spare Metolius pocket aider, but have yet to use it on route.

YMMV.


Partner hosh


Feb 22, 2005, 2:46 PM
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i'm no aid pro, but I've been getting along fine with just 2 aiders. Wouldn't mind having a third though...


timmy_t


Feb 22, 2005, 3:07 PM
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I fiddled around with two, then borrowed a bit from my buddy to have three, but I have found that there is nothing nicer than four. With three you still end up doing a lot of back and fourth between pieces and tangling of the third aider. It isn't required but it sure is plush.


texplorer


Feb 26, 2005, 12:09 PM
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Most aid vets climb with two aiders on easy ground. Having just two aiders makes things more efficient. The 3rd aider is just another step in the system. Once things get into the A4 range though most climb with a set of four aiders for more stability and comfort.


bringmedeath


Feb 27, 2005, 12:06 PM
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lately I climb on only 2. 2 yates ladders and I have climbed several A4 pitches with this setup.


texplorer


Feb 28, 2005, 8:23 AM
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bringmedeath,

I agree, many use two aiders on everything. There are probably even a few that do A5's on two but I would say most climbers doing A4 I have met use 4 aiders. It is quite possible to use two on anything but I think it just comes down to comfort level and personal preference at that level.


eride810


Feb 28, 2005, 9:23 AM
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If you can manage them, having two pairs of aiders is really nice. Much nicer for top stepping, IMHO. Watch out how you alternate them, though. You might end up building a rat's nest (or a Peregrin falcon nest.....)


brutusofwyde


Mar 6, 2005, 12:53 PM
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On easy ground I use two Russian Aid Trees.

On hard, scary, technical, traversing and/or roofy El Cap scarefests I use two pairs of Aid Trees. You don't wanna be fiddlen with switching a third aider back and forth on a delicate, scary blind-hooking traverse. At least, I dont.

On backcountry walls where every ounce counts, I use two aid trees and a third, ultra-lightweight alpine 4-step aider.

Your mileage will vary as much as the roads you travel.

Brutus


johnhenry


Mar 6, 2005, 5:23 PM
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Hey Brutus,

Why do you use an traditional aider in that situation? Why not a a third aid tree?

Do you use grab loops on your Russkies?

I think if I had grab loops, I would use my adj. daisies a lot less...

cheers,
john


brutusofwyde


Mar 7, 2005, 1:09 PM
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In reply to:
Hey Brutus,
Why do you use an traditional aider in that situation? Why not a a third aid tree?


Saves about 15 grams, and easier to distinguish the "floating" aider.

In reply to:
Do you use grab loops on your Russkies?

No, Haven't noticed a need for them.
In reply to:
I think if I had grab loops, I would use my adj. daisies a lot less...

I'd rather have my weight on my adjustable daisys than on my arms: less trashed at the end of the day, and less weight and clutter.
In reply to:
cheers,
john

Backatcha.

Brutus


mikeinidaho


Mar 13, 2005, 7:52 AM
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I use four aiders, a set of two on two seporate biners.

You can stand really stable and comfy - but alas, it is slow, kinda sloppy and a lot to deal with...

But it's comfy!


tarsier


Mar 13, 2005, 2:42 PM
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It helps to be in two separate aiders if you're traversing, so three is a practical minimum to bring in this situation.


skinner


Apr 1, 2005, 9:59 AM
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I changed my mind on this. I think it totally depends on the situation. On the weekend I was aiding up two parallel cracks of different size, back cleaning as I went. Four aiders worked perfect for this, although it's definitely more to manage. There was a few times when I would move up only to realize that one of the four aiders was now out of reach below me. Anyhow.. now I am thinking, bring 4, use whatever you need. :?


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