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Clipping Cams ?
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tradrenn


Mar 6, 2005, 5:47 PM
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Clipping Cams ?
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So this is my problem. I only use CAMS in granite which is not very often most of my climbing is done on limestone and my pro is stoppers and hexes. All my pro is cliped with straight gate biner, bent gate is for rope only. I have a set of forged friends, they come with sling but a short one, so when I wanted to clip that CAM today as it turnsout that I had to clip it with normal quickdraw so now my straight gate biner, that usually goes on wires, bolts, pitons etc. eventually ended up cliped to sling on my CAM. Can all the mark or ticks ( you know what I mean) from clipping metal cut my sling. Now I was thinking to maybe get 9 oval biners and use them just to clip CAMS. Did you have the same problem ? Is there some rule about it that I haven't heared or read about ? Please update me. What do you think ?


slobmonster


Mar 6, 2005, 5:54 PM
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You know, tradrenn, I'm fairly sharp, and I'm confident in my reading ability, but it took three attempts to finally redpoint your post.


tradrenn


Mar 6, 2005, 5:57 PM
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But you got it, so what do you say, any advise ?


speedywon


Mar 6, 2005, 6:02 PM
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I wouldn't clip a rope through a nicked biner, because it will be sliding through the biner (which could snag the rope). With a cam, however, there will be mininal movement (if any) between the sling and the biner. So, I wouldn't worry about it. Just inspect the sling on your cams before each outing to make sure they aren't freyed. It'll only cost you a buck or two to resling a cam.


Partner climbinginchico


Mar 6, 2005, 6:11 PM
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The burrs that can develop from clipping a bolt hanger could potentially damage a sling, yes. That's why I use separate draws for trad and sport.


labrat0065


Mar 6, 2005, 6:13 PM
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well in responce i dont know the haed and fast rule, but i do it. when the biner that is typically clipped in to metal is clipped into the sling on the cam yet it can hace shap knich and edges, but, barring a fall, it wont come under loaded contact with the sling, and even in a fall it is static, the webbing does not run through the biner. my understanding is if you fall and the straight gates goes on your rope, is it is dynamic, forcing te rope to RUN OVER the nicked biner, severly increasing chances of rope damage.


moss1956


Mar 6, 2005, 6:16 PM
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I think you know the answer. You need to have a separate set of biners to clip into gear with, separate from the ones that go on the bolt end of a quickdraw.

When you take a hard fall on a quickdraw on a bolt it puts a nick in the biner on the bolt. That nick can cut the sheath on a rope, or cut the sling on a cam. So.. get some more biners.

I wouldn't get ovals because they are heavy. Trango makes a cheap, light wiregate that is good, I like Dovals by Omega pacific, but I also have some Heliums and they are OK.

I like ovals for racking nuts and tricams, but I put several pieces on a single oval. If I am onsighting a climb, I might rack my cams several to a biner, but when I am going up a climb that I know, I generally have the gear I am going to use, on the sling I am going to use, so I can just secure it, clip and go. It looks good...

:)


tradrenn


Mar 6, 2005, 6:32 PM
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The burrs that can develop from clipping a bolt hanger could potentially damage a sling, yes. That's why I use separate draws for trad and sport.

I never said anything about sport. I'm going to repeate myself here but I do clip bolts and even old pitons, just for comfort of my head and wires I clip on stoppers and hexes. So far I've done only 6 sport climbs and yes I have 10 quickdraws just for that.


petsfed


Mar 6, 2005, 6:53 PM
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In reply to:
The burrs that can develop from clipping a bolt hanger could potentially damage a sling, yes. That's why I use separate draws for trad and sport.

I never said anything about sport. I'm going to repeate myself here but I do clip bolts and even old pitons, just for comfort of my head and wires I clip on stoppers and hexes. So far I've done only 6 sport climbs and yes I have 10 quickdraws just for that.

That cuts right to the heart of the issue. Some trad routes have *gasp!* bolts on them! So you can't really avoid the problem by having designated sets of gear. Solution? Inspect all of your gear before hand. If you don't want to risk messing up a sling with a notched crab, then don't use it. However, one fall on a bolt probably won't notch it to the degree that it will slice a subsequent sling. Inspect your gear and this won't be an issue. Dig?

Side rant: When did risk avoidance, rather than risk management become a necessary part of being a climber? Climbing is dangerous, we can't avoid that, but we can stack the odds in such a way that we can deal with the dangers as they come. Its easier (and cheaper) for me to inspect all of my gear than have a designated set of equipment for one type of climbing, and another set for another type of climbing, especially if having different sets still doesn't make me any safer.


Partner climbinginchico


Mar 6, 2005, 7:02 PM
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I have some of my trad draws designated for bolts. I have one long one (48") and 2 regular ones (24") that are used for nothing but bolts on trad routes. These are only taken if I know there are bolts on the route.

Actually, since I am anal and have all my biners color coded as to use, I have some of my "pro side" biners designated for bolt use on trad, and I use those on the pro end for bolts, with the same rope end ones. I then use the regular pro side biners as utility.

And, I always carefully inspect my biners and carefully file any sharp edges. For what it's worth, all my biners for trad are wiregate hotwires as well. Except for my lockers, so don't get on my case about not using lockers. :wink:


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